subeone

im currently configuring **** in my AEM and I'm curious if i need to change the dwell settings in the 1101 cal file?

kind of copying the settings on the 1100? or is it fine how it is ?

thanks

subeone

Also what about injector phasing? I changed tooth 1 to 19 iirc

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you can copy what is in the 1100 cal file for that stuff on the AEM v1.
I think I left the dwell the same for a long time before I changed it so its not a huge deal.
dwell settings everyone has their own that they like, I think either one of those are probably fine.
kurt had posted some on supraforums for the vvti coils a while back that I used I forgot what they were I will take a screen shot later and post it.

subeone

thanks ali SC3 ill await your post

QWIKSTRIKE

Going COP and firing sequential you will not need an igniter, or is that still needed with VVTI. Get some 1zz go 2ZZ coils and make COP happen. I made my harness and wired them up I just need to make a plate fro them to look nice.

subeone

has anyone had ignition problems going this route? my car breaks up at wot around 10 psi on a s366

i want to give up with this thing and dont want to waste money on a dli if noone has used it on vvti coils

ali:
"Do yourself a favor, don't buy a DLI or run 12.5:1 & 11 deg @ idle w/ .025 gap to band aid the problem, buy yourself some vvti coilpacks and a ignitor to match. problem solved."

BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

Post a pic of the coil setup..

Have you tried gaping down the plugs on the vvti setup? Are you tuned?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

You need a FFIM for the 1zz 2zz coils, but they are good coils to run. any sequentual coil will generally spark stronger than wasted spark, but the vvti are so well made they spark similar but a true setup like the 1zz or 2zz or even sequential gte coils will spark the best (unless you run a aem v1 and are forced to run the sequentials in wasted spark). sequential coils do not like wasted spark generally speaking, and then its better to use wasted spark coils.

If you don't have a FFIM, you are limited basically to the vvti coils.

I changed a bunch of stuff in your cal and sent it back to you, including the dwell settings.
I don't think the stock coil even breaks up at 10 psi so likely there is something going on there, it is a standalone they rarely run properly until they are tuned.
you said you were gapped to .028, I have been at .032 on mine for years and 17 psi is not an issue for my igntion system at all but the S366 probably flows more air so I dunno but generally speaking these coils should easily outperform the stock coil. you do not need a DLI generally until like over 20 psi territory.

I have been hearing mixed results lately so not sure anymore about these coils. for me and others they work great, for some they tend to break up. for a basic na-t it should work so its likely in the tune. if it runs perfect up to a point in all the gears and then breaks up then it could be the coils, but if you can't hit boost in any gear other then 1st that sounds like a tuning issue or a boost leak to me, both of which will mess stuff up.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

What kind of dwell settings are you guys using? I'm a noob when it comes to understanding all of these settings. Here's what mine is set to. Any feedback?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

what coils and are you using a toyota ignitor? im guessing from wasted spark its the ds62/dh61 and the vvti coils.
The dwell is sort of set on the toyota ignitors for the most part but that looks fine. this is a point I was wondering if the dh61 has a different dwell than the ds62 but I sort of doubt it seeing how well they run with either. if you are using other types of coils without the ignitors then you may actually be able to increase the dwell.

I see your inputs are on rising edge. unless you are using a hall effect sensor and custom trigger wheel you are going to want to be on falling edge. that can affect the timing the ecu reads alot.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

VVTi coils and a DS62 ignitor. I'm using the stock distributor base with the stock NA cam/crank sensors.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

be sure to resync your timing if you change it to falling edge. the one that says "ignition input capture" and "second trigger active on" I am pretty sure should be falling edge, toyota uses pretty much all falling edge.

when a given gear tooth in the distributor approaches the magnetic VR sensor, the voltage starts to rise from 0 and maxes out when the tooth is aligned with the sensor.
With rising edge you are telling the ecu to see rising voltage as the "event" so when it goes from 0 to max and it crosses a certain threshold it will uses that time to calculate the engine position.
Turns out this is not very accurate to use a magnetic sensor to detect the rising edge as it doesn't always trigger in the same place given the same engine position.
This is the nature of the magnetic pickup and the reason why people swap to 3 wire hall sensors as they are more accurate and use digital output which is accurate enough to trigger on the rising or falling edge. variable reluctance sensors not so much.

Interestingly enough, it turns out the magnetic sensor is actually more reliable when you wait till after that max voltage happens and then as the tooth has started to pass the sensor, watch for it to drop below a certain voltage (falling edge detection) and then it triggers a voltage threshold going from max voltage to 0. that way with falling edge it does not pick up erratic signals because it has to first get the signal and then see it also drop. It also knows what the full amplitude (voltage) of the signal is and could use a percentage to more accurately detect the threshold, because if you are triggering on rising edge and the max voltage is not constant (VR sensor output amplitude increases with engine RPM), you do not have enough info yet to do that and would have to just take any old constant number as the threshold and set it there and hope it works well (many ecu's are setup like this and it does work fine). as long as you have it setup on falling edge though you will be in better shape.

Also if it were rising edge and noise were introduced, you would be much more likely to get a false trigger as if it detects any spike that is higher than the threshold you get a timing error and the ecu gets upset. alot of times when cars cut out on standalones its because of this so you watch that timing error or sync number to see how reliable you are triggering. A happy running ecu is an ecu without any timing errors. errors during starting are not so important as remember the ouput on VR sensors like our distributors increase with RPM, so at 300rpm there is not a very large signal and its ok to pick up a few errors during starting, but they should not accumulate while driving. if the ecu is not setup to very accurately trigger, you can get starting issues especially if the battery is a little low (aem starting troubles anyone? lol). This is where the oem ecu is great because they fine tuned their ecu's to their pickups and they hardly ever have timing errors.

short hand description of why they design it to be falling edge. I would not expect the people who wrote the base calibration to know the difference, and they got it wrong on the aem v1. somehow they figured it out by the v2. megasquirt cals I am surprised they should know this stuff.

subeone

here is a picture of my afr readings with an LC1 bosch LSU sensor (wideband verified to read right with a spare plx wideband and ntk sensor).




The car keeps boosting but I might sound "dumb" for saying this but i just feel like theres "flutter" on the wastegate? is spark blowout violent? because it doesn't do anything violent it keeps going but the engine throughout the rpm sounds louder then softens up then gets louder, theres a tiny amount of "jerking" if i ease into the throttle to about 50% then it spooling i go 75% its smooth, then go 100% theres no "jerking" or flutter i guess it can be said.. what I assume is that as soon as i go WOT it goes pig rich and misfires, so if i ease into it 50% then it spools up at around 13.1:1 afr then 75% it goes to 12.5:1 then i got 100% around 5k rpm to 11.5:1 it picks up "smooth" i guess you can say. but if i got wot, 100%, from the get go it doesn't like it very much.

Halon

iTrader: (6)

So you said you adjusted his dwell, then you said the igniters sort of set the dwell themselves. Kinda confused, but if mine look good then alrighty then, thanks.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah the aem has settings for it but its really a big unknown how much exactly it affects with the toyota ignitor in the loop. my experience has been not that much but still you would want to have the standard settings in there and for those types of cars its usually set as 100 across the board or like a standard dwell like yours is set and the ignitor handles it. I had put some custom ones in there also a few times but not sure what all it did.

subeone your issue sounds like the tune or timing issue, or one of the sensors could be on the fritz.. its hard to say could also just be fouled plugs. I don't think its a dwell issue. check a plug make sure they are still good. double check for boost leaks, those can easily cause the top end to be inconsistent.

spark blowout is not violent, it sounds like you are boosting normally then someone hit the mute button on your turbo for a split second (sometimes longer) and depending on how bad it is you can boost through it with it going loud and quite back and forth many times, or it will sort of not want to boost at all if its bad enough, the boost will seem sluggish.