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Has anyone ever done this? 1.5JZ

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Old 09-17-10, 09:18 AM
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DRFT103
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Default Has anyone ever done this? 1.5JZ

Instead of pulling the motor out of your SC to drop in a 1jz, Just swap out the heads and wiring, turning your motor into a 1.5JZ with ease.... anyone?
Old 09-17-10, 09:30 AM
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stockhatch
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Technically, you can do that, but it would actually be easier to buy a standalone and turbo and just go NA-T.
Old 09-17-10, 10:54 AM
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Klaus
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That would be much harder with the motor in the engine bay vs on a stand
Old 09-17-10, 02:08 PM
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DRFT103
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Originally Posted by stockhatch
Technically, you can do that, but it would actually be easier to buy a standalone and turbo and just go NA-T.
I already have a 500+ hp NA-T setup in the car right now, But I'm turning it back into my Daily driver and i'm just gunna run a BPU 1jz with the stock computer.

The built NA-T that's in it now is going in a stripped and caged s13 coupe, and will be my track car.

I also have a spare NA head and block sitting on an engine stand, is the 1.5JZ worth it? I can easily trade out blocks when I receive my 1JZ.

any input?
Old 09-17-10, 02:34 PM
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imDementeD
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from what i read because i was considering this swap is that its a very good step up from the 1jz of course..being as it has higher compression the tt's spool very fast and u have an extra .5 liter for additional tq..so yea id say its worth it compared to a 1jz if u have a perfectly good ge block and a 1jz complete swap

but to try an piece a 1jz head/engine harness/coils/tt setup etc to a ge thats already in a sc then no i wouldnt think its worth it at all..
Old 09-18-10, 11:26 AM
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DRFT103
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Does anyone know if you can do this with the stock computer? i.e. No other engine management? I dont want to have to worry about tuning it, I want it somewhat reliable
Old 09-18-10, 11:50 AM
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boosted516
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i was thinkin about doing the same thing, supposedly the head bolts right on to the block but do any modifications need to be done?
Old 09-18-10, 02:11 PM
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Ali SC3
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there are a couple small things I have heard about but most importantly the ge engine does not have the crank sensor in the oil pump like the TT's do (gets cam/crank from the distributor) so you need a gte or vvti oil pump (im not really sure which but it bolts on), and then you could use the 1jz head which has the cam signals on it (basically duplicating the gte setup).
It should run off a 1jz ecu, there is no reason not to if you have a ge block ready to go, extra .5 L will make a noticeable difference.
I thought there was a thread somewhere where someone did this and ran it off the stock ecu

Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-18-10 at 02:17 PM.
Old 09-18-10, 06:08 PM
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imDementeD
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it may run a little lean though? ur not just adding .5 liter but ur also going for 8.5 to 10:1 maybe a little higher/lower not sure the cc's of the 1jz head..so maybe a safc2 to add a little more fuel or something?
Old 09-19-10, 12:27 PM
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DRFT103
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Yea i've read about having to get a GTE oil pump for the CAS...

you said the trigger is in the 1jz head? I was wondering how it would compute the crank angle if i just threw a sensor on there...
Old 09-21-10, 11:11 AM
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Ali SC3
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yes the cam triggers are on the Gte heads G1 and G2.
The 2jz-ge VVti has a single cam trigger for G2 on the head.
The non vvti 2jz-ge has both crank and cam triggers coming off the dizzy hence why you need to address the crank signal when you swap the ge head (delete distributor basically).

you won't be raising the compression ratio too much if you use a gte head gasket.
As for the air fuel ratio, closed loop will correct just fine, but as for WOT it is possible the AFR could be off a little bit but they normally run fairly rich from the factory.
A wideband would probably be a good investment if you go down this path or na-t and you will know right away. A piggyback and some injectors is never a bad idea on the 1j, the factory injectors are quite small.
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