kanukem

iTrader: (6)

Hey everyone,

I have a couple of questions about a 1jz swap. I've spent days looking around for threads and posts on virtually every site but I haven't gotten a definite answer. This swap is an auto soarer 1jz and running a map ecu 2.

The car runs with the motor in but has a couple of issues with running. The first major problem is the high idle. It idles around 2000 and holds steady. I have checked for vacuum leaks on the throttle body by making an intake leakdown tester and putting in 15 lbs of pressure. The air slowly decreases but not due to any leaks in hoses or anything else. I searched around and discovered that it is sometimes due to the idle speed control valve (ISCV). The map ecu 2 is wired in and using map replacement mode so the air hose that normally goes to the map sensor now is hooked up to the piggyback which has its own sensor. I've already calibrated the ecu to idle correctly so the problem is not there. I've cleaned out the ISCV because sometimes it doesnt close all the way or open all the way and people have problems idling or turning on their car. The problem is the ISCV...How do I know? I took off the large air hose that goes to the ISCV and blocked it off. The car idles smoothly at a reduced rpm. I am also not receiving any boost when driving although my turbos are spooling and forcing air in. I believe that the air is leaking through the ISCV because it is completely open. The gauge tells me that I am only making enough air to reach zero and not even positive boost. The ISCV is controlled by the ECU through four grounds and two 12volt leads that ground sequentially to open and close the valve. I've tried testing the valve by running leads to the battery and then grounding it in order to test the valve but it only clicks. I'm assuming that the solenoid works but is not being controlled by the ECU. Could it possibly be my ECU? Even when my engine is warm for 20 minutes, it continues to idle at 2000. The MAP sensor on the piggyback reads a vacuum so it is working fine.

I'm not receiving any boost as stated before, I don't understand why. I've checked the intercooler pipes and they hold pressure fine when the throttle body is closed so I'm assuming that the system is working perfect.

Seeing as how the motor is auto going to a five speed. I've already cut the 3k wire on the body plug. I believe it was pin 10 on the white body plug.

My temp gauge soars when I turn on the car but I've already grounded the wire in pin 24 on the white body-side body plug as stated in one of the threads for the temp fix. I've tried bleeding the air out of the coolant system by jacking up the front and running the car without the radiator cap. It bleeds air in the beginning as it warms up but how do I know when it is finished? If it is finished, why is my temp gauge still so high?

My tach gauge isnt working either. I'm trying to avoid the resister in the back of my cluster so I bought the tach adapter 8910eis. I've tried wiring the black wire (tach signal wire) to the black wire on pin 1 on the small plug on the igniter and the red wire (12v) to the orange/black wire on pin 2 on the small plug of the igniter. What is left is the two green plug. Am I wiring it right or is it suppoesd to be installed another way? Can someone explain how they wired in their tach adapter?

I've checked my ecu for any leaking capacitors and couldn't find anything too bad. Could it be my ECU?

Is there any one in Los Angeles with a soarer 1jz that can let me borrow their ecu for 10 minutes so I can check to see if it is my ECU that is broken?

Is there any one in Los Angeles that can help me out with my problems?

Sorry for the long thread. I haven't found any answers from anyone. I hope maybe my problems can help people with their swaps in the future. Please help. Thanks guys.
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Oh and here is my other thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-answered.html

I'm trying to create a link/web of information on 1jz swaps so things will be easy for people to research

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Step 1 IMO should be to remove the piggyback. Get the car running on the stock ECU to verify all is well and then bring the piggyback(another point of failure) into the mix.

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

1 check stock ecu and see if it will operate right
2 if you blocked off air feed to iac, it's going to idle lower, but this is not a fix.
3 it sounds like your charge system may not e the problem, as your test had shown. A boost leak out the iac is not enough to eliminate all pressure. Perhaps the wastegate is stuck open.

I'm on a phone, will try to remember to read more and post later. Swan dive!

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

Temp gauge requires fix. Search for 1jz temp fix.
If your ecu IS bad, I have 1jz m/t spare ecu. I both ecus r causing issue, I need to think more. Sorry for double post. Still on phone

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

temp gauge isn't getting grounded properly so it's going to peg past H all the time. You need to ground the gauge in order to get it running properly.

Also i had the same issue when my OEM MAP sensor wasn't hooked up properly. I would remove the MAP ECU from the mix and get it running back to stock. Also check for codes, it will put you in the right direction instead of running around in circles.

kanukem

iTrader: (6)

thanks for all the quick responses guys. i'm gonna take off the piggyback and turn everything to stock and see how it goes. I'll keep all you guys posted.

Stick3, I grounded the temp wire (brown/black i blieve) on one of the screws connecting to the chassis. That's not a good ground? I should connect it to one of the grounds on the ecu? to check for engine codes, use the diagnostic port on the side of the intake manifold and ground te1 and e1 right?

consynx - wastegate stuck open? how do you fix that? i put on the boost solenoid for the piggyback. could that be holding the wastegate open? also i remember reading a while back that you used the tach adapter for your swap. the 8910eis one you wrote in the 1jz swap list. howd you wire that in?

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

I didn't use tach adaptor. I worked on oem cluster.
Get idle straight and everything else in check before working on boost. The Stock twins rear wastegate isn't fun, so it's best to rule everything else out first.

Cleanshots

iTrader: (2)

tach adaptor is a waste of money, jump the resistor for the fix.. ground the temp gauge, sounds like u have boost leak not a vacuum leak so that cant be found by just looking at the intercooler piping.. hope the other things get fixed.

kanukem

iTrader: (6)

alright guys, temp is online now. it needs to be grounded to an earth wire (ground). grounding it on a screw is not a fix. it still idles high. everything is back to stock besides the temp wire being grounded on the ecu and the wire cut for the 3k/starting issue. where do i go now? =[. does anyone live in LA where I can borrow their ecu? I want to see if thats the issue.

kanukem

iTrader: (6)

oh and another thing. i tried pulling off the hose to the map sensor while the car was running and it did nothing to the car's idle or anything. i assume that nothing has changed because the iscv is stuck open

kanukem

iTrader: (6)

also, when i try to floor it, it sputters like its trying to make boost or something

JOutterb

This ever resolved? Having same issue on stock turbo and ecu, boost check to throttle body was good. No intake leak