Rear main seal leak fixed for $6 vs $2300
08-18-10, 02:27 PM
#32
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CL gets hit with well over 100 spammers a week.
95% of them members never see because we have some smart automated spam tools both for signup and for validation that you're a "real person" not a bot.
The other 5% the moderator team catches, or I see suspicious stuff in their member profile at signup and do a pre-emptive ban or our fine members report the spam posts.
I didn't think you were a spammer because you didn't give a link to purchase (as well as your profile info, IP info, etc). But betcha I checked you out and with good reason
95% of them members never see because we have some smart automated spam tools both for signup and for validation that you're a "real person" not a bot.
The other 5% the moderator team catches, or I see suspicious stuff in their member profile at signup and do a pre-emptive ban or our fine members report the spam posts.
I didn't think you were a spammer because you didn't give a link to purchase (as well as your profile info, IP info, etc). But betcha I checked you out and with good reason
)
08-18-10, 05:37 PM
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Now I just gotta get my pass. window to work again and my car will be in great shape... I think I tried searching for a thread already but didn't find a good one. Gonna just browse old threads when I get more time, but if anyone remembers a recent topic about diagnosing & repairing pwr windows (for 95 sc300) I'd appreciate a link! I'm alot more DIY capable with electrical issues than mechanical.
08-18-10, 06:56 PM
#36
and this will solve hyper blink, and slow/sluggish blinkers:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6
or mabey the inside of your engine needs to be cleaned...?
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=7
or the ultimate, one and only go fast part:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=28
Point is, some additives are like the "performance chips" on ebay that are nothing more than a scam. Yes some may work, for a little while, but they are simply temporary bandaids. Do it right, do it once..
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6
or mabey the inside of your engine needs to be cleaned...?
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=7
or the ultimate, one and only go fast part:
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=28
Point is, some additives are like the "performance chips" on ebay that are nothing more than a scam. Yes some may work, for a little while, but they are simply temporary bandaids. Do it right, do it once..
08-30-10, 02:18 PM
#38
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WARNING - WARNING
As the mechanical ppl here all have said, think real hard beforer you use this stuff.
2-3 weeks after using and my car broke the **** down, getting tow to mechanic now.
could be anything of course, as of now. but i kinda think this wouldn't have happened as soon if I had just left it alone
As the mechanical ppl here all have said, think real hard beforer you use this stuff.
2-3 weeks after using and my car broke the **** down, getting tow to mechanic now.
could be anything of course, as of now. but i kinda think this wouldn't have happened as soon if I had just left it alone
08-30-10, 02:32 PM
#39
WARNING - WARNING
As the mechanical ppl here all have said, think real hard beforer you use this stuff.
2-3 weeks after using and my car broke the **** down, getting tow to mechanic now.
could be anything of course, as of now. but i kinda think this wouldn't have happened as soon if I had just left it alone
As the mechanical ppl here all have said, think real hard beforer you use this stuff.
2-3 weeks after using and my car broke the **** down, getting tow to mechanic now.
could be anything of course, as of now. but i kinda think this wouldn't have happened as soon if I had just left it alone
Good luck getting it fixed man.
08-30-10, 04:29 PM
#40
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Well I may be OK, I lost alot of fluid but it turned out to all be antifreeze, when I was sure it was oil at first. So it's probably unrelated... won't know for sure until the mechanic checks it out and I'll be out of town for awhile.
I could smell burning fluid again starting a few days ago. It smelled different from the oil leak; I thought maybe because of the additive. Turns out it was probably coolant I was smelling the last couple days, and not oil. My thermostat's obviously bad or I would've gotten a temperature light instead of check engine (right?), and the check engine light came on only 2-3 mins before the breakdown, making me think I could make it the last mile home before something bad happened... I never check the thermometer needle but when I looked today while moving it onto the tow truck, it was all the way up to hot. I could see two coolant hoses attached & dry, (think that's all there are?) and the water pump didn't appear wet. So I won't know exactly what's been making it lose coolant until next week
All the same, I still feel like this might not have happened if I hadn't added some mystery fluid to my oil...
I could smell burning fluid again starting a few days ago. It smelled different from the oil leak; I thought maybe because of the additive. Turns out it was probably coolant I was smelling the last couple days, and not oil. My thermostat's obviously bad or I would've gotten a temperature light instead of check engine (right?), and the check engine light came on only 2-3 mins before the breakdown, making me think I could make it the last mile home before something bad happened... I never check the thermometer needle but when I looked today while moving it onto the tow truck, it was all the way up to hot. I could see two coolant hoses attached & dry, (think that's all there are?) and the water pump didn't appear wet. So I won't know exactly what's been making it lose coolant until next week
All the same, I still feel like this might not have happened if I hadn't added some mystery fluid to my oil...
08-30-10, 04:54 PM
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... My thermostat's obviously bad or I would've gotten a temperature light instead of check engine (right?), and the check engine light came on only 2-3 mins before the breakdown, making me think I could make it the last mile home before something bad happened... I never check the thermometer needle but when I looked today while moving it onto the tow truck, it was all the way up to hot. I could see two coolant hoses attached & dry, (think that's all there are?) and the water pump didn't appear wet. So I won't know exactly what's been making it lose coolant until next week
l...
What do you mean when you say "breakdown" ??
How was the engine running when you pulled it onto the trailer?
Overheating your car can kill it very quickly (like in only 2-3 mins
). Whenever I get a CEL, I ALWAYS scan temp gauge and oil pressure . . . IMMEDIATELY! You can't assume that it's ok to drive another another mile; your over-temp light could have burned out and the next thing you know it's become a CEL and your engine is toast. I sincerely hope this is not your case, but you should know it can happen.
05-22-11, 06:11 PM
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I meant to touch back on this thread, sorry to revive this dead thread but I never got to the conclusion.
so yeah, in response to the last poster, I lucked out big-time. apparently the plug at the bottom of the radiator popped out while i was on the road, so I had been dumping my antifreeze over about a quarter-to-half mi. at 35-40mph. if the car hadn't shut itself off, I'm sure I would've warped my heads within another minute or less of driving it dry. It had 45-60min to cool waiting for the towtruck, and it drove normally when we loaded it on to the truck - i was scared driving it at all by this time after realizing I had no coolant and that it wasn't going to hold the coolant anyway
So in conclusion, the incident was totally unrelated to that oil additive I used.
In fact, it's been 8-9 months since I put that stuff in and I still don't smell burning oil or see any new driveway spots.
I did finally have a mechanic fix all of the higher-up leaks, several months ago, because they were more profuse, but as far as my RMS goes I figure I'll just leave it the way is until I need major trans work done (though I understand the transmission on the sc300 never dies) and just hope that the stuff continues to plug the leak. I've just changed my oil for the second time since I added that stuff, and it seems to be holding up.
it said "plugs most leaks, but primarily intended rear main seals" (however the hell that's supposed to work), and that was the only leak it plugged, but it was the one I won't be able to get properly repaired probably for years to come
so yeah, in response to the last poster, I lucked out big-time. apparently the plug at the bottom of the radiator popped out while i was on the road, so I had been dumping my antifreeze over about a quarter-to-half mi. at 35-40mph. if the car hadn't shut itself off, I'm sure I would've warped my heads within another minute or less of driving it dry. It had 45-60min to cool waiting for the towtruck, and it drove normally when we loaded it on to the truck - i was scared driving it at all by this time after realizing I had no coolant and that it wasn't going to hold the coolant anyway
So in conclusion, the incident was totally unrelated to that oil additive I used.
In fact, it's been 8-9 months since I put that stuff in and I still don't smell burning oil or see any new driveway spots.
I did finally have a mechanic fix all of the higher-up leaks, several months ago, because they were more profuse, but as far as my RMS goes I figure I'll just leave it the way is until I need major trans work done (though I understand the transmission on the sc300 never dies) and just hope that the stuff continues to plug the leak. I've just changed my oil for the second time since I added that stuff, and it seems to be holding up.
it said "plugs most leaks, but primarily intended rear main seals" (however the hell that's supposed to work), and that was the only leak it plugged, but it was the one I won't be able to get properly repaired probably for years to come
05-22-11, 09:48 PM
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only thing thats been in my car is seafoam. nothing else is going in it. if i get a leak i'll break down and fix it at by my self. unless i get the leaky seals then i guess my car will be down till i change it.
05-25-11, 02:15 PM
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I hadn't even heard of seafoam until now..
i've always been hesitant about adding anything non-standard to any fluid tank in my car, but my buddy had the same problem on a v-6 nissan, and it fixed it. he wants me to add another bottle in "for good measure" but its not leaking now, so I'm not adding a damn thing to it until maybe it starts leaking again.
This rear main seal alone on my '95 just isnt worth fixing (without doing a currently-unnecessary tranny rebuild), which is a huge shame considering the rest of the car is in good shape interior/exterior-wise, all the features still work, it drives with virtually zero noise or vibration, and it meets my very-particular needs in a car 100%.
As long as both a) that mystery goo holds up without screwing up the rest of my seals, which are mostly new now, and then b) the RMS doesn't just disintegrate on me, then I don't expect anymore repairs for a long time other than scheduled maintenance, and the occasional sensor here and there.
I actually had a trouble code of "71" the other day, looked it up as an "EGR malfunction" and it was causing my CEL and TCS-Off lights to both light steadily as soon as I'd start the car. I first tried cleaning the 1/4 lb of salt and corrosion off my battery terminals, and no then more trouble code or lights... car seems to drive the same, maybe a bit quicker, but that could be my imagination. I don't floor the accelerator very often to begin with.
I wanna make this car last, but i'll switch out before it becomes a moneypit for me. As far as my DIY abilities go, apparently I can't even change a damn floormat without it becoming a 3-hour-plus adventure with a dozen or more tools scattered around.
i'll probably be buying used cars the rest of my life, this push-button ignition $#!+ on new cars is a major turn off for me, along with "drive by wire", context-button interfaces, and many other "advancements" on any car I've been in that was made after the mid-late 2000s
there's just something unsatisfying about not being able to turn a key to start a car, it's like it feel like less of a serious machine, and more of a hip gadget
i've always been hesitant about adding anything non-standard to any fluid tank in my car, but my buddy had the same problem on a v-6 nissan, and it fixed it. he wants me to add another bottle in "for good measure" but its not leaking now, so I'm not adding a damn thing to it until maybe it starts leaking again.
This rear main seal alone on my '95 just isnt worth fixing (without doing a currently-unnecessary tranny rebuild), which is a huge shame considering the rest of the car is in good shape interior/exterior-wise, all the features still work, it drives with virtually zero noise or vibration, and it meets my very-particular needs in a car 100%.
As long as both a) that mystery goo holds up without screwing up the rest of my seals, which are mostly new now, and then b) the RMS doesn't just disintegrate on me, then I don't expect anymore repairs for a long time other than scheduled maintenance, and the occasional sensor here and there.
I actually had a trouble code of "71" the other day, looked it up as an "EGR malfunction" and it was causing my CEL and TCS-Off lights to both light steadily as soon as I'd start the car. I first tried cleaning the 1/4 lb of salt and corrosion off my battery terminals, and no then more trouble code or lights... car seems to drive the same, maybe a bit quicker, but that could be my imagination. I don't floor the accelerator very often to begin with.
I wanna make this car last, but i'll switch out before it becomes a moneypit for me. As far as my DIY abilities go, apparently I can't even change a damn floormat without it becoming a 3-hour-plus adventure with a dozen or more tools scattered around.
i'll probably be buying used cars the rest of my life, this push-button ignition $#!+ on new cars is a major turn off for me, along with "drive by wire", context-button interfaces, and many other "advancements" on any car I've been in that was made after the mid-late 2000s
there's just something unsatisfying about not being able to turn a key to start a car, it's like it feel like less of a serious machine, and more of a hip gadget