1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Hey guys.

Sorry to keep asking opinions on the same problem but I still havent found the right answer.

My car has been acting up alot lately and is really killing me.

The point I am at right now is my car cutting out and stalling when it heats up "after 15-20 minutes of driving". Wont start back up until it is cooled down.

I pour cold water on the engine block and area and the car starts right up.

No codes are being thrown anymore.

On the advice of someone from clublexus I gave my mechanic some "c02" cold air sprayer to see if he can isloate the problem sensor or relay or whatever it may be.

Aside from this do any of you have any ideas or advice an what to do here?

This problem has been goiong on for over a month and niether lexus dealer "spent 3 hours" or any local mechanics can seem to pinpoint the problem.

After the last stall out, i let the car cool down and when it started the "tracOFF" light was on along with the engine light.

Drove to my mechanics and both lights went off at same time before I made it to his shop.

??????????????????????

Thanks

titanSC

I suppose your fuel pump is bad. The car would die every time the fuel pump got hot (after approximately 15-20 mins of driving). But the car wouldn't start up until the fuel pump cooled down. So I can't be sure if its your fuel pump since you said that pouring cold water on the engine block helps to start the car back up right away. But otherwise, it could be nothing else but the fuel pump.

vangb2

iTrader: (2)

Well, You need to check 3 things when the problem occurs.

1.Spark
2.Fuel
3.Compression

You must check it immediately when the problems start. Do not wait until it cools down and when everything is in working order.

Let us know what you find.

timber1426

coils plugs wires. Do this first.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

The car has fuel pressure while it is getting bad starts.

And when it runs it runs like a dream, perfect -smooth-purrs like a kitten.

Both lexus and my mechanic have said so.

The engine only has 140 000km so I dont see it as being a mechanical issue, not with these engines.

At first it was throwing a cide 41"tps" and later on a code 12"rpm".

After replacing the "tps" and clearing the codes the problem persisted but no codes come back.

This seems to be an electrical problem.

Both me and mymechanic think so.

And if it was a bad fuel pump or fuel "ecu" i dont see how pouring cold water on the engine block could get it to start right up like that .

Anyways thanks for the input.

Any other ideas????????????

good2go

iTrader: (6)

The fact that the car "starts right up" after you pour water on the block seems to imply that it is something electrical, a sensor, or small peripheral mechanical device. I say this because there is no way a dash of water is going to cool the mass of an entire engine block by any appreciable amount in a short period of time. However, it could cool those other items. I'm sorry your mechanic came up with nothing using the spray coolant (yet), but exploiting the temperature issue seems to be your best lead in troubleshooting at this point.

vangb2

iTrader: (2)

Spark is electrical. So did you check your spark as mention with problem occurs? Coil are common for leaks if located in hot area.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

The last time i went into my mechanics garage he had the plastic coverings off the engine block exposing the spark plugs.

I did not ask him what he was doing but i assume he was checking for spark.

Are the coils known to be problems on these engines?

My engine only has 140 000 km.

Thanks

S142jz

iTrader: (2)

Dude My buddy has the exact same ****ing issue. I've looked at the caps and rotor buttons but they look good.

I realy am lost looking at the problem


Does anyone know if perhaps the knock sensor will cause this issue on these V8 motors ???


Bro I hope we find this problem.

vangb2

iTrader: (2)

Knock sensor detects pre-detonation only. It will turn your check engine light on if it senses that your fuel is burning before the spark has ignited.

vangb2

iTrader: (2)

Either your mechanic does not know what he is doing or just bad communication. Have you ever heard that assuming makes an "*** out of U and ME"?

Coils are a know problem to all cars that has it located near by the engine. There are cars that has only 10 miles that has all sorts of problems and that includes Lexus and Toyota.

To troubleshoot a problem, the problem must be present. If anything, I bet you your mechanic is trying to troubleshoot when there is nothing wrong at the moment.

So far we are here:

1.Spark-- We still don't know if you do have or do not have sparks when your issue continue to persist. We are still AssUming that it has sparks.

2.Fuel--You mention it has fuel pressure but not how much. That's not relevant information.

3.Compression-- Eliminated check.

Your sensors may be your problem, but did you know it will affect sparks or fuel?

Don't forget to check your crank angle sensor. MAF sensors are also a problematic issue for SC's.

BTW, you never mention if your car model and year.

S142jz

iTrader: (2)

The vehicel is going to be an SC400

madmax98

*****, we need some info about the car man..

S142jz

iTrader: (2)

I just told you. The vehicel he is haveing problems with Is a 92-95 obd1 SC400

madmax98

ummmm, is that it? different years are different, you know! ahhh