1JZ VVT-i questions: Will VVT-i head work on 95 GE block?
02-24-10, 08:40 AM
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1JZ VVT-i questions: Will VVT-i head work on 95 GE block?
I've searchd SF, mania, and here and can't find an answer.
I'm trying to find out if a 1JZ VVT-i head will bolt on to a 1995 non-vvt 2JZGE (stock SC300 motor) block?
I'm building a daily driver and I want the most low-mid range torque I can get. The VVT-i 1JZ motors came with single turbos that made noticeably more torque down low and midrange. This head/turbo coupled with a 3.0L block should make for a torque monster below 5000rpm.
I don't plan on making more than 400whp, and want Stock ECU control.
Will it bolt up? Does the VVT-I system use oil pressure from a gallery in the block? If so, it obviously SHOULDN'T work.. I just don't know how it works.
This setup should be a bit more reliable, and at the rate stock twins seem to die, perhaps I'll get more life out of the factory single turbo. Not to mention, the VVT's only came in Soarers and Chasers, so if you find one with an R154, it won't need any mods to fit.
Anyone?
I'm trying to find out if a 1JZ VVT-i head will bolt on to a 1995 non-vvt 2JZGE (stock SC300 motor) block?
I'm building a daily driver and I want the most low-mid range torque I can get. The VVT-i 1JZ motors came with single turbos that made noticeably more torque down low and midrange. This head/turbo coupled with a 3.0L block should make for a torque monster below 5000rpm.
I don't plan on making more than 400whp, and want Stock ECU control.
Will it bolt up? Does the VVT-I system use oil pressure from a gallery in the block? If so, it obviously SHOULDN'T work.. I just don't know how it works.
This setup should be a bit more reliable, and at the rate stock twins seem to die, perhaps I'll get more life out of the factory single turbo. Not to mention, the VVT's only came in Soarers and Chasers, so if you find one with an R154, it won't need any mods to fit.
Anyone?
02-24-10, 10:06 AM
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The VVtI has a pipe on the driver side on the block right behind the A/C compressor and it feed the VVti solenoid located on the driver side cam.
You can make it work , I say go for it.
You can make it work , I say go for it.
02-24-10, 01:07 PM
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I've joined jzx100.com to get some information but I'm waiting on an admin to verify my account before I can post. Haven't found anything out by searching.
I'm assuming that the pipe just feeds constant oil pressure to the solenoid valve, which is controlled electrically to open and supply oil pressure to the VVT-i unit that adjust valve timing. If that's the case, then I can just make a braided line with a fitting from the filter housing (or a sandwhich adapter at the oil filter), and feed the VVT-i unit.
Next question... the VVT-i 1J's don't use MAP for fueling primarily, they use an AFM like the 2JZGTE's do. Anyone know what it's good up to?
I'm assuming that the pipe just feeds constant oil pressure to the solenoid valve, which is controlled electrically to open and supply oil pressure to the VVT-i unit that adjust valve timing. If that's the case, then I can just make a braided line with a fitting from the filter housing (or a sandwhich adapter at the oil filter), and feed the VVT-i unit.
Next question... the VVT-i 1J's don't use MAP for fueling primarily, they use an AFM like the 2JZGTE's do. Anyone know what it's good up to?
02-24-10, 05:15 PM
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After doing a bunch of research on jzx100.com, I haven't found an answer about the vvti head on ge block, but it doesn't matter.
The vvti head is not worth the trouble. I decided that maybe in 4-5 years I might buy an NA MKIV Supra and swap the drivetrain over. At that point, I might want to go a bit crazier - in which case, it will be nice to have a powertrain that has readily available parts, EMS, etc etc.
The vvti head is not worth the trouble. I decided that maybe in 4-5 years I might buy an NA MKIV Supra and swap the drivetrain over. At that point, I might want to go a bit crazier - in which case, it will be nice to have a powertrain that has readily available parts, EMS, etc etc.
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02-24-10, 11:49 PM
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the 1jz vvti is probably the best 1j out their, the power fc for the 1jz vvti has an option to run the z32 maf which is NICE, but yes a map sensor is better but ohh well,
02-25-10, 03:04 PM
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Yea, you're 5sp already, that makes sense.
I feel the opposite because I'm auto and want to go 5spd. If I can find a Soarer/Chaser pullout, it makes much more sense to go 1JZ. That way I get the *right* R154 + 1JZ for <$2,000.
The friggin R154 with bellhousing, flywheel, slave, etc etc runs nearly $1300 by istelf separately
I feel the opposite because I'm auto and want to go 5spd. If I can find a Soarer/Chaser pullout, it makes much more sense to go 1JZ. That way I get the *right* R154 + 1JZ for <$2,000.
The friggin R154 with bellhousing, flywheel, slave, etc etc runs nearly $1300 by istelf separately
04-08-10, 05:06 PM
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After doing a bunch of research on jzx100.com, I haven't found an answer about the vvti head on ge block, but it doesn't matter.
The vvti head is not worth the trouble. I decided that maybe in 4-5 years I might buy an NA MKIV Supra and swap the drivetrain over. At that point, I might want to go a bit crazier - in which case, it will be nice to have a powertrain that has readily available parts, EMS, etc etc.
The vvti head is not worth the trouble. I decided that maybe in 4-5 years I might buy an NA MKIV Supra and swap the drivetrain over. At that point, I might want to go a bit crazier - in which case, it will be nice to have a powertrain that has readily available parts, EMS, etc etc.
After lots of research, it turns out you can buy a Power FC standalone for ~$1,000 (about half the price of AEM) that will control VVTi on these newer 1Js, and provide standalone EMS services while retaining the stock MAF (with the option to go MAP, or Z32 or Q45 MAF).Not to mention, if all you want is <600whp, you can save decent money on a turbo manifold by going 1JZVVTi. It has a single turbo manifold that is very easy to make a T3 adapter for. Here is the CAD file for the adapter (which should cost ~$50 at a machine shop):
Also, if for some reason I blow up the 1J bottom end, you can still do a 1.5JZ with the VVTi head. It requires a very small amount of machining. Here's what needs to be done:
Originally Posted by AL167
you need to get a 2jzgte head gasket. i use genuine and so does titan and gas they are a cometic type and can handle 2000+hp
the oil gallery that lubricates the cams is about 5mm out. (when you lay the 2j head gasket on the 1j you will see this.)
now you need this oil gallery on the head tig welded up and then you need to drill it at aprox 45 deg to line up the 2jzgte gaket. i did this with my cordless drill being. you then need to get the head decked
also there are two water galleries that need to be machined on cylnder 2 and 5 (from memory) its water jacket that arks around the bore. if you compare the the 1jz and 2jz head gaskets you will find the water control holes are in different locations. if you do not do this it could cause hot spots in you head.
you also need a 2jz timing belt 2jz serpantine belt tensioner and 2jz vvti ge oil line for vvti control.(its longer than the 1j version)
the pipe that joins the water pump to head also needs to custom made about 10mm longer than the 2j pipe from memory (both the 2j and 1j are different)
the oil gallery that lubricates the cams is about 5mm out. (when you lay the 2j head gasket on the 1j you will see this.)
now you need this oil gallery on the head tig welded up and then you need to drill it at aprox 45 deg to line up the 2jzgte gaket. i did this with my cordless drill being. you then need to get the head decked
also there are two water galleries that need to be machined on cylnder 2 and 5 (from memory) its water jacket that arks around the bore. if you compare the the 1jz and 2jz head gaskets you will find the water control holes are in different locations. if you do not do this it could cause hot spots in you head.
you also need a 2jz timing belt 2jz serpantine belt tensioner and 2jz vvti ge oil line for vvti control.(its longer than the 1j version)
the pipe that joins the water pump to head also needs to custom made about 10mm longer than the 2j pipe from memory (both the 2j and 1j are different)
04-08-10, 07:20 PM
#15
I'm building a daily driver and I want the most low-mid range torque I can get. The VVT-i 1JZ motors came with single turbos that made noticeably more torque down low and midrange. This head/turbo coupled with a 3.0L block should make for a torque monster below 5000rpm.
This setup should be a bit more reliable, and at the rate stock twins seem to die, perhaps I'll get more life out of the factory single turbo. Not to mention, the VVT's only came in Soarers and Chasers, so if you find one with an R154, it won't need any mods to fit.
This setup should be a bit more reliable, and at the rate stock twins seem to die, perhaps I'll get more life out of the factory single turbo. Not to mention, the VVT's only came in Soarers and Chasers, so if you find one with an R154, it won't need any mods to fit.
I don't see the benifit of making a 1jz vvti head work just to be able to use a factory single turbo manifold vs just getting a 2jzgte and putting a single on it. you could get a 2jzgte vvti for a little more and you wont even have to open it up, and itll run off the stock ecu even with a single on it.