S.O.S. to all sc400 owners
02-03-10, 06:58 PM
#16
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I had the same problem and after putting new rotors, caps, wires, plugs, and maf no change all it took was loosening the tps give a little turn and not only did it work the throttle response was much better.
02-03-10, 11:15 PM
#17
Your mechanic may just have worked on Pinto only. The diagnostic terminal of the SC400 is on the driver side next to the IACV in the engine bay. That's nowhere near the stereo wiring that's inside the dash inside the car. The kick panel around that area only has fuses.
04-03-10, 06:08 AM
#18
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rough idle, engine dies when restarting hot, top speed 15mph
I just solved this problem after a year of replacing parts and troubleshooting. Your symptoms sound similar to what i had going on. I would suggest buying a new or (used with warranty) Fuel Pump ECU. After new plugs, coils, wires, vacuum hoses, intake pipe, earth grounding kit, etc., i still had the problem. some of the solutions worked temporarily, but for a month now i have had no problems. for an entire week the car randomly had a rough idle, would die after restarting it hot, no power after taking off from a complete stop. it originally wasn't all of these problems, but it progressed over time. i would not recommend the bypassing solution for the fuel pump ecu, i got a used one with a warranty on ebay for $90. compared to most of the other parts, this ones not to expensive. its held on with a single bolt behind the driver-side back-seat armrest panel. 30min fix.
04-03-10, 06:53 AM
#19
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I just solved this problem after a year of replacing parts and troubleshooting. Your symptoms sound similar to what i had going on. I would suggest buying a new or (used with warranty) Fuel Pump ECU. After new plugs, coils, wires, vacuum hoses, intake pipe, earth grounding kit, etc., i still had the problem. some of the solutions worked temporarily, but for a month now i have had no problems. for an entire week the car randomly had a rough idle, would die after restarting it hot, no power after taking off from a complete stop. it originally wasn't all of these problems, but it progressed over time. i would not recommend the bypassing solution for the fuel pump ecu, i got a used one with a warranty on ebay for $90. compared to most of the other parts, this ones not to expensive. its held on with a single bolt behind the driver-side back-seat armrest panel. 30min fix.
Right as of now my car is in the middle of an engine swap, mainly for an engine wire harness that comes with the motor & a warranty. I will mention the Fuel Pump ECU to the mechanic as a precaution.
Thank you for the heads up
04-03-10, 07:20 AM
#20
Lexus Test Driver
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yeah he is 100% right there is a port under the dash and one in the engine bay eight on top of the engine. Just go to autozone or napa and give them your ID and they will let you use their diagnostic tool for free. Pull your codes and look them up. It will atleast give you someplace to start.
I personally was thinking MAF or a bad ground somewhere
I personally was thinking MAF or a bad ground somewhere
04-03-10, 10:52 AM
#21
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
yeah he is 100% right there is a port under the dash and one in the engine bay eight on top of the engine. Just go to autozone or napa and give them your ID and they will let you use their diagnostic tool for free. Pull your codes and look them up. It will atleast give you someplace to start.
I personally was thinking MAF or a bad ground somewhere
I personally was thinking MAF or a bad ground somewhere
04-30-10, 12:44 PM
#23
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
As of 4/30/10 my car has been running like a champ thanks to Richie & crew @ Fixed Rite Auto http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/a...cture006-1.jpg
They did an outstanding job repairing my car. I highly recommend them to anyone in need of a Lexus specialist in Brooklyn.
The main culprit was a faulty ECU & a bad engine wire harness. I opted to have them swap the old engine for a recycled unit.
They did an outstanding job repairing my car. I highly recommend them to anyone in need of a Lexus specialist in Brooklyn.
The main culprit was a faulty ECU & a bad engine wire harness. I opted to have them swap the old engine for a recycled unit.
Last edited by 718murdoc; 03-27-13 at 08:23 AM.
04-30-10, 06:34 PM
#25
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04-30-10, 09:21 PM
#26
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try some stuff called BLUE MAGIC
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl.../products/101/
yes it does do what the pic's suggest
the lense is plastic.
its UV coated.
the UV has worn off.
even if you polish the lens and clearcoat them it still will go yellow because the lens has no UV coating.
1. keep polishing the lens every 2 - 3 months
2. buy late model lenses and glass high beams
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl.../products/101/
yes it does do what the pic's suggest
the lense is plastic.
its UV coated.
the UV has worn off.
even if you polish the lens and clearcoat them it still will go yellow because the lens has no UV coating.
1. keep polishing the lens every 2 - 3 months
2. buy late model lenses and glass high beams
Last edited by v8soarer91; 04-30-10 at 09:25 PM.
05-01-10, 10:19 AM
#28
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
try some stuff called BLUE MAGIC
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl.../products/101/
yes it does do what the pic's suggest
the lense is plastic.
its UV coated.
the UV has worn off.
even if you polish the lens and clearcoat them it still will go yellow because the lens has no UV coating.
1. keep polishing the lens every 2 - 3 months
2. buy late model lenses and glass high beams
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl.../products/101/
yes it does do what the pic's suggest
the lense is plastic.
its UV coated.
the UV has worn off.
even if you polish the lens and clearcoat them it still will go yellow because the lens has no UV coating.
1. keep polishing the lens every 2 - 3 months
2. buy late model lenses and glass high beams
05-01-10, 07:44 PM
#30
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2010
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this is an interesting thread and also you have a very nice looking car 718murdoc.
I've taken my car to a shop that i really trust and then had my own personal mechanic look my car.
They both said that the car is running perfectly normal and nothing is wrong with it. Although i dont buy that because i've been having hesitation issues and rough idling. So what i did was change the spark plugs and did a quick wipe in the throttle body. After that, i take the car for a spin and just like that the car rides smooth. Now its back to acting up again and im not sure what it could be. I thought maybe throttle body but i just dont think thats the case. How can i check if the ECU is good or not?
I've taken my car to a shop that i really trust and then had my own personal mechanic look my car.
They both said that the car is running perfectly normal and nothing is wrong with it. Although i dont buy that because i've been having hesitation issues and rough idling. So what i did was change the spark plugs and did a quick wipe in the throttle body. After that, i take the car for a spin and just like that the car rides smooth. Now its back to acting up again and im not sure what it could be. I thought maybe throttle body but i just dont think thats the case. How can i check if the ECU is good or not?