98$c300

Ok need help here guys.im putting good with electrical.but im stuck with the way they exlplain the instructions.can somebody guide me in an easier way.here a copy of the instructions.

3. LC-1 Cable connections:
3.1 Out of the LC-1 come 3 cables:
A. Interface and power cables with 6 stripped ends:
a. Red 12V supply
b. Blue Heater Ground
c. Metallic System Ground
d. Yellow Analog out 1
e. Brown Analog out 2
f. Black Calibration wire
B. Serial In connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
C. Serial Out connection, 2.5 mm stereo (female) marked as OUT.
4. Connect the 12V supply wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source
goes on as soon as the ignition on the car is on. Make sure the connection is fused with a
fuse of minimum 5A.
5. Connect the Heater Ground wire to a chassis ground. Make sure it has a good ground
connection.
6. Connect the System Ground to where you will use the analog out signals. If you use the
analog out signals as input for an ECU or datalogger, connect the system ground to the
ground of the ECU or datalogger.
7. Optionally connect the analog out signals to their intended devices.
8. Optionally connect a pushbutton switch between ground and the calibration wire.
9. Optionally connect a indication LED between the calibration wire and ground. The following
diagramm shows how to connect the pushbutton and indication LED.

98$c300

4. First Time Use
1. Do not connect the sensor yet.
2. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 on and wait for 10 seconds.
3. Switch the 12V supply off after 10 seconds.
4. Connect the sensor to the sensor interface connector. The sensor must be exposed to air
for the first time calibration.
5. Switch the LC-1 on and wait for 2 minutes.
If you connected a LED to the calibration button, you will at first see the LED blink slowly and
steadily. If it blinks for a fixed number of pulses, then switches off for 2 seconds and then repeats,
you have an error code. See chapter X for details.
Slow and steady blinking idicates that the sensor is warming up to its optimum operating
temperature. The warm-up period will last for about 30 seconds for a cold sensor, depending on
the sensor type used.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensor
specific data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future. After the first time use
the meter will use these values to regulate the sensor's temperature. During the heater calibration
the optional LED will blink fast and steady.
After that period the LC-1 will automatically perform a free air calibration. During this 2 second
period a connected LED will go off. The LC-1 will now calibrate itself by using air as a reference
gas with known oxygen content.
After the free air calibration is finished the LED should light up steady and continuously,
indicating correct operation of the LC-1.

98$c300

5. Calibration
There are two types of calibration for the LC-1: free air calibration and sensor heater calibration.
Sensor heater calibration and first free air calibration is automatically performed the first time a
new sensor is used, while free air calibration should be executed frequently.
5.1 Free air calibration
To achieve maximum precision, the LC-1 and its sensor needs to be recalibrated frequently.
The sensor MUST be operated in free air for calibration.
If the wide-band sensor is installed in a vehicle, wait 6-8 hours after running the engine so that all
exhaust gas is dissipated from the exhaust tract of the vehicle. Better yet, disengage the oxygen
sensor and expose the sensor to air (away from the exhaust) for calibration purposes:
1. Connect the LC-1 to 12V from the vehicle and switch it on.
2. After the sensor has warmed up, either press the pushbutton or connect the calibration wire
to ground for a brief period.
3. After the calibration is complete, switch the LC-1 off and wait for 30 seconds before you start
the car.
If a LED indicator is connected to the calibration wire, it will be off during free air calibration.
5.2 Sensor heater calibration
If you change the sensor – either with a replacement sensor or a new type of sensor --, the
heater circuit of the LC-1 needs to be recalibrated as well. (See steps in chapter 4 'First Time
Use'). The heater calibration data in the LC-1 will be reset when the device is operated from 12V
without a sensor connected for at least 5 seconds. You can force a reset by doing this, and then
recalibrate by turning the unit off, reconnecting the sensor, and turning the unit on.
After the sensor is warmed up the meter automatically calibrates the sensor heater controller to
the particular sensor. During this 20-second period the LC-1 collects and calculates sensorspecific
data required to quickly reach operating temperature in the future.
Note: When using the Bosch Sensors the LC-1 may perform multiple calibration passes.
This is normal and need not cause concern. When it completes, the LC-1 also will perform
a free air calibration. Make sure the sensor is operating in free air for the heater and free
air calibration.

Wicked SC

iTrader: (3)

I got one but I paid someone to do it!!

Damn Richard, all that sh@t looks like a headache to me. Jordan hooked his up in his SC so I'm sure he can hook it up in no time! Give him a shout...

98$c300

Yeah tell me about it.it looks like you wiring a spaceship.I think I found a ford forum and maybe I cold do it.if not I'll hit him up.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

The instructions are very good actually. What are you having a hard time with. finding power wires? I hooked one up to my old 5.0 with no issues, but do yourself a favor and wire in the optional push button and LED. It will make it much easier to tell what the sensor is doing.

Are you using the meter with a standalone that accepts the input, or are you driving an AFR gauge?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

FYI, I ran a ground wire for teh heater circuit straight to the block. The system ground I ran to the Megasquirt ECU ground which is where the signal was being fed. The 12v power I tapped from the ECU power, and I used the yellow analog signal wire to the Megasquirt AFR In pin.

If you are driving an AFR gauge, you need to tap the gauge for system ground, and find a key on 12v power circuit. I'm thinking the lighter circuit maybe?