YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

So i am finally going boost for the new year and I am looking to finalize my list of things i need. If I am missing something or you guys recomend something please let me know I am looking for a simple install and not looking to boost big at first I just want to do an inital install and get it done right. I will eventualy upgrade my fuel system (injectors, rail, pump(s) etc.) and go COP with FFIM but thats probably another year. This is what I have come up with for the install on my SC300. I have 120k miles with good compresion and no knocks of any kind

TT HG
ARP Head Studs
Ferrera Valve Stem Seal (i have that little smoke at start up)
Front Seal
Cam Seals
Water pump
Thermostat
oil pump
timing belt
timing belt tensioner
Slim Fans (My preferance prob doing either the IS300 or Altma electric fan mod)
62mm turbo
eBay or other manifold modded to clear dizzy if need be
Intercooler (Na-t style) and piping kit
IS300 Union bolt for turbo feed or Sandwich plate (any suggestions)
oil return kit
oil lines and connectors for feed and return
LS400 MAF (mabey)
Down pipe 3"
NGK Spark plugs
4Runner 95+ 3.0 dizzy cap and rotor
spark wires
TT fuel pump
FPR
Power Squirt EMS (my preferance)

Again if I am missing something please let me know I would really appreciate it

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

#1 thing that is commonly looked over, but a MUST have...Wideband o2 sensor..also keep in mind you dont need to spend $200 on a timing belt just cause it says "Greddy" on it..Gates racing belts can be had for less than $100 and are the main manufacturers of the Greddy belts.

Also if your not going to go over 9psi, you can skip the LS maf for now, and use that extra cash for some good t-bolt clamps..other than that it seems your on the right track.

edit: dont forget your wastegate and bov in your list.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Tial WG
BOV
Teflon Tape
I wouldn't mess with the LS400 Maf crap
Power Squirt like you stated above.
If you know in the future you will go distributor less!!! You should get the TT oil pump.
-6 an Lines and fitting.
GL man

1sxyrxy

i think you mean mega squirt not power squirt. IMO that is a cheap *** EMS. just got MAP ecu. very cheap for map ecu1, and it gets rid of your maf. you can do the blow through maf system for a while if you cant afford the map ecu or whatever. you can run about 9psi on the blow through system. on your list you only really need. i would stay with stock injectors unless your going to upgrade your fuel managment. stock timing belt is fine. i use a stock on on my single setup, dont have any problems. i wouldnt change the water pump unless its not working or leak, same with thermostat. but its up to you. you dont need electric fans. they are more work then they are worth IMO. i run stock fan with no problems. you dont need a oil pump either unless you are having problems with yours. like blowing front main all the time. its a ***** to change and just a waste of money if nothing is wrong with it.

head studs
surpa HG
turbo
wastegate
bov
EMS of some sort
4 runner dizzy if you want. i used the stock one with a clocked manifold.
you shouldnt need plug wires unless they break
spark plugs gaped for the the boost
fuel pump. i run walbro
im still running stock FPR up to you if u want to spend money on it or not

1sxyrxy

my old setup. stock dizzy

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

^thats beautiful.

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

Thanks man I plan on just getting oem timing i completly know where ur coming from LoL and I will add the wideband sensor to my list

Thanks man will add those to the list

Thanks for your info I am most probly going to go with the Mega Squirt because I have a local tuner that is doing great things with his and i would be getting a pretty good deal on it .....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9wle...37D8B&index=31 ........

I want to upgrade the water / oil pump just because i am going to be there already changing front seal (which is leaky). To how much do I gap the spark plugs? I have a friend that is a Lex tech and he will be doing all the work for me thats not a big deal. Hey what were the spec on the set up in the pic I like it, looks like what I am going for I would just add the TT covers



Editing my first post as I get more feedback from you guys thanks

1sxyrxy

i had 550cc injectors, i believe it was a master power T70 turbo, which aren't actually a t70 ., custom intake manifold. you can check gap and pros and cons and which plugs to run on supraforums. i just bought stock TT plugs and gaped to .26 i don't really remember. i would recommend removing engine to do oil pump. you have to remove the upper oil pan, which is a pita in the car. don't waste your money on the IS300 union bolt. just take yours off and drill it and put your own fitting on it. i bleive its a 11/32 with 1/8 tap. most common fittings.

93twintrbo

iTrader: (1)

Dont underestimate the stock intake manifold and ignition system. They have been proven to be fine up to around 800whp.

1sxyrxy

yes, the stock intake is a pain to change plugs but its alot cheaper than paying for a front facing. stick with the stock intake

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

Yes i will retain the stock intake and ignition. But eventually it will all be upgraded

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

not true, generally its a good idea to have for monitoring it but you only NEED to have one when your doing tuning, other then that you should never see a change in your AFR.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I monitor mine all the time and make small changes that I would almost never be able to find otherwise in lean cruise and at WOT. its the only warning youll have on a WOT pull that your going lean and you will have time to back off hopefully. That added insurance and the fact that I can log my exact AFR when im driving is worth the 150 to me.

plus if you care about running closed loop at all a narrowband sensor will only let you home in on 14.7:1 ratio. My aem wideband lets me have my AFR pegged at 15.8:1 at cruise, 15:1 on partial load, mid 14:1 range until I hit boost, and dead on at 11.7:1 above 2 psi of boost. I don't actually use closed loop in boost anymore, but you get the idea. without closed loop Im not sure I could afford the gas my car would require on a daily basis.

shaodome

iTrader: (3)

You show ignorance with that statement You say don't go megasquirt yet you recommend the MAP ECU? Really? On my car I run full coil on plug (no wasted spark requiring a DLI like AEM), use all the factory sensors and many other features. The MAP ECU just attempts to fool the ECU into doing what you want....just get an SAFC at that point IMO. If you want a piggy back get an Emanage Ultimate or the AEM FIC. Both of those mop the floor with the MAP1 ECU. Can't speak for MAP2, but thats another price point again.

The big thing about Megasquirt based systems is they are ONLY as good as who builds them. If some hack job puts it together and sells it on ebay who sells it on a forum who sells it on craig's list...your bound to have issues.

Side by side, MS can do a lot of things many other existing standalones couldn't even begin to touch at the price point. It runs circles around the older haltech stuff (which even used cost more than a new MS), mircotech, FAST, etc. The new platinum series Haltech stuff is supposed to be nice, but its more $.

//LRD

I'm running a Power Squirt (PSI ems) with no problems .And this coming from a car with a auto tranny . 18-19 lbs the car made 500 wheel. On the E mange I had to run 21 just to reach 475 .Mind you guys 500 was still some what rich, we definitely could of made more . Yea your making the right discussion. PSI EMS is definitely the way to go . Best of luck with your build ..