40gt

I just swapped engines/ transmissions, ECU's, wiring loom, igniters from a 93 model to a 97 model and I have the same problem as everyone else above.

The 93 donor car ran perfect before the swap into the 97.

I discovered I had the problem as my engine now stops gently about 3 to 4 seconds after you shut the key off.
A delayed stop, not instantanious, like it should be. So my logic is the ignitors must be getting power from somewhere?
Plus I flattened one battery.

I checked battery drain & it bounces from ~ 0.9 to 1.7 continually.
Mostly high values.
If I pull the EFI fuse it drops to ~ 0.53.

Disconnected the alternator - no differance.

Changed the EFI relay - no difference.
Both EFI relays "click" about 2 seconds after the car stops.

Swapped ECUs - no difference.

Put a HD jumper lead from the battery neg direct to the engine to check it was grounded properly.
No differance.

Running out of ideas.
I was going to pull the switch to test it, but that went into the to hard basket after I pulled the lower cover off the dash.

The thought in my head is everything worked perfect before the engine swap.
So the big question is what has changed?

The answer is - I have no idea but I'll keep looking.

Did anyone else solve their problem?

40gt

In my case, there is a mismatch between the 93 ECU / loom and the 97 engine bay wiring.
The ignition relay was always live and had power all the time, ignition key on or off.

Hence the constant battery drain & the reason the engine ran on for 3 to 4 seconds after being switched off.

The auto electrician changed the trigger wire in the engine fuse box to the ignition relay.
So when you shut the ignition key off, power is cut to the ignition relay - problem solved.

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

Glad you got a good result.

Lynzoid

Sorry to chime in.
LS430, 2001, 3UZFE.
My B+ wire to ECU (from EFI MAIN relay) just burnt out (car stalled and no start).
So i made a piggyback wire from efi relay to B+ on the ecu, and i did cut the faulty circuit at both ends (so no drain there).
Now, the piggyback wire and EFI MAIN relay do get hot very soon.
Is it normal? It is fused thru 30A fuse (efi 1). Should ECU draw so much amps?
Or my wire burned out due to high currect draw?

Can anyone finally check the temperature of his/her EFI MAIN relay while car is running? If it's hot - i'm ok. If not - i'll be spending money for further diag.

Thanks

twizted

iTrader: (2)

Time to bring this old thread back to life. Taking my SC400 out of storage 3 years later now. I still have not remedied this situation, two ECU's later. Shops have checked it out and always want to replace ECU. Done that multiple times now, I just pull the fuse and put back in after driving an draw stops till start again. I am thinking about just putting a switch on that circuit. It acts just as if a relay is staying shut that should not be.....

lalexan

Observation: I had exactly the same problem with my RX300. EFI relay would randomly (immediately or later) start clicking and the battery would die over night. Removing the EFI fuse would stop the relay clicking and putting it back would bring the clicking back. There was some sensitivity to how quickly the ignition key was removed.
Reason: The ignition key switch didn't go open circuit when the key was pulled out. Instead in open circuit (keys out) I measured a few Mohms because of some dirt or conducting particle inside the switch.
Fix: Ignition cylinder was removed, and a contact cleaner was sprayed into the switch. Now OFF is open circuit!
Almost 1 year later - the issue never came back.
I also reported it here. http://my.is/forums/8099042-post17.html