twizted

iTrader: (2)

I was not able to ever track mine down. My car has been sitting in my garage for many months on trickle with the EFI fuse pulled. I can put the fuse in and run it I just have to pull the fuse so there is no draw after it has been started the first time. Evey shop that has ever had it said ECU is bad but I replaced 2 with new ones and sent a third away to be beefed up but no dice. I am going to revisit this some day but have had no time or aspiration to do so yet...

rgaetano

Yes. Same here. Frustrating, as my car runs great other than this issue.

twizted

iTrader: (2)

Yeah mine runs good to otherwise.... I just could not take it to work or anywhere it was going to sit anymore because it would go dead on me and leave me stranded....

Clean400

iTrader: (2)

There's a switch under the dash to turn off the wireless alarm system. This drains a lot of battery. I don't know if it's your problem but when I plan to let my car sit for a little while I turn it off.

twizted

iTrader: (2)

Yeah tried that before but this is a much bigger draw than that and have diagnosed it back to the EFI. Whatever is down the line one the EFI fuse....

GrnNdYllw

I know this is an old thread and the SC forum, but I was having the same draw on the EFI circuit on my ES300. I took it to the shop and they tracked it down to a melted fuse box under the battery, the box had to do with California emissions even tho my car isn't an emissions car. They may have just installed it at the factory just in case. It looked like it had caught on fire at some point. Anyway, they pulled it out and got rid of the draw. Maybe there is some similar issue going on with your cars?

over40driv

I own a OTC brand battery drain tester and it has 4 levels of drain ,none, small, medium and maximun. My car has no drain issue but does register a small amount of parasitic drain. This tester pre loads the radio and ECU memory before testing the rest of the system. I do have an issue in the fact that I bought an undersized battery as a weight saving part. Its spins the engine over great all summer but below 40 degrees the battery power falls off greatly. This car is not used much during the winter so I will put the charger on for a few hours before start up on a cold day. You do not want low battery voltage to cause your starter not to disengage on a 1UZ engine.

youghigh

Please help me to find a solution
I have do the test with the Negative pole with the Negative cable and I find a slow draining battery on the #40 Fuse circuit (For Trunk Lamp and Autoradio)
When I push on the trunk switch for closing the light I have a parasitic battery drain.The same when I remove the light, the same when i remove the trunk switch, the same when I remove the Fuse.(I have do all this things independently)
My conclusion is when the circuit is correctly close in other words when all the part on the circuit is there NO DRAINING on the tester but When I open the circuit in the other words when I push on the trunk switch(Or close the trunk) for close the light or when I remove Switch or when I remove fuse or when I remove light trunk in the socket I have a Parasitic slow draining battery on my tester

Anybody's have an Idea for resolve my slow draining problem????

Thanks

jayboydog

MY RX330 HAS A PARASITIC DRAIN. I noticed there is a dim light on coming from above the sunroof control. There's a digital clock that is lit when the engine is off it slowly flashes the hour (no minutes) then swaps and flashes the minutes (no hour). I believe I had not seen this before a few days ago! Seems a good way to find the parasitic drain would be to remove a fuse and see if the drain is gone. could also use voltmeter and touch probes to the metal contacts where the fuse was removed to see if there is voltage and also check the current (amperes) across the contacts.

Rain water is getting inside the car and is affecting some dashboard displays. I will be stopped with engine running--speedometer hand will jump up to 40MPH then return to 0. jump to 40MPH and repeat. it goes after after some time. I drive short distances.
most recently new battery would not crank the starter motor. recharged the battery and all runs well. "BATTERY" lamp on dashboard is lit. I put a voltmeter between positive and negative cables at battery posts and saw just 12.4 volts with engine running. alternator is bad. just ordered a rebuilt alternator on ebay. simple to use rachet wrench and socket to remove two bolts which are at top, on passenger side of engine. can view the bolts from below too (looking up, head on ground.) The bad alternator is a Toyota brand. I don't have a core charge on the new alternator. I might take the bad Toyota alternator apart to see what is involved in replacing the internal parts myself!