rexst_ph

As the title says. My 93 SC300 has one of the earliest Toyomoto turbo kits and the kit I bought came with 2 additional injectors that are controlled by a Haltech unit and are mounted on the intake tube right before the plenum. My problem is that over time the fuel hose that Toyomoto suppled over 10 years ago is now starting to deteriorate to the point where it is starting to leak fuel right at the end where the injectors are attached. Consequently, the vehicle is not being used at the moment. I can't seem to find Lance Ho Lung of Toyomoto anymore so I was hoping you guys can tell me where I can get a replacement fuel line/hose because this one seems to be crimped on the injectors. It starts as one hose that "Y's" into 2 hoses that attach somewhat permanently onto the injectors. Could someone please steer me in the right direction? Thanks

While I'm at it. I'd like to ask you guys to help me diagnose what seems to be troubling my ride. Just before discovering the leak in the additional injector area, I experienced a problem with the car. It was driving well and then all of a sudden it started to sputter and run very rich. I parked the car to inspect. What happens is that if the car is parked for a few hours, when I start it, the car idles perfectly and then all of a sudden starts idling really rich and lumpy. It emits a lot of black smoke and starts fouling the plugs. We also noticed that the exhaust manifold right near the downpipe was very wet with fuel. Could it be that the plugs are just fouled and not burning the fuel? Perhaps the ignition wires and or the distributor cap going bad? I'd appreciate some opinions. Thanks.

masagsxr

Wow.. Haven't seen one where the hose is crimped directly on the injectors. Its sounds like a good design but not when you have to replace the whole thing when what you just need to replace are the hose... hhhmmmm.... As I was reading the first few sentences, i was going to say just get the hose and replace it thinking you can just remove the hose clamps and reuse them....

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

my advice to a fellow na-t er


dump that old school technology.. its old school method that lance did when he first started boosting the sc and quickly moved away from it for it proved to be very unrelaible


drop in some 440 or 550cc inj into your stock rail spend 150 get a fpr and get yourself a ls400 airflow meter and safc and car will run like stock and give you better boost response and better power delivery

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

I also agree. 440's dont' go for very much, and you can find used safc's for pretty cheap too.

BTW where in tx are you??

rexst_ph

Thanks for the advice. I actually have a set of 440's and even 550's but have not really done anything with them. I already have a fuel pressure regulator installed and in use on the vehicle. I also have the MAF for the LS400 so I guess I should start thinking about going this route. The reason I didn't make any changes sooner is because, for the longest time, I didn't experience any problems with the original setup. For one thing, the original mileage on my 93 SC300 is a whopping 28k miles. I don't really use it much. I just liked having it around. Condition is pristine other than the reported problem.

By the way, I have that MAP-ECU unit but, like my injectors, it's just sitting in one corner. I hesitate to mess with it because I hear so many problems with creating a truly hiccup-free table for a karmen vortex type system that the SC300 comes with. Are my concerns unfounded? Should I just go with a S-AFC unit? I would really appreciate some detailed advice on this matter. Is it going to be relatively simple to tune and leave alone? To be honest, I don't have the energy to spend too much time tweaking and fine tuning. I guess I really am getting old. At the same time, I don't want to see this worthwhile investment go to waste. I would really appreciate the most pain-free solution to my problem. Thank you in advance to all that have been so gracious with their suggestions.

IHIRYU,
I am no longer in TX. I used to be in Austin and Houston but the vehicle is now in the Philippines. This is also the reason I am more reluctant to make a lot of changes that will require Dyno access. The service is available but it requires me to get the vehicle there and scheduling can also be an issue at times.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

heres my advice

now seeing that i sat on both sides of the fence meaning that i have tried the map ecu route and i also and currently use the aem standalone route

my impressions , take the map ecu and chuck it into ebay for sale , its crap , does not hold a tune well . the stock ecu only has a small range of adjustment meaning that if you dont emulate what it was programmed to see at every load point in closed loop its always going to be adjusting short and long term fuel trims, part throttle accel was a true pain in the rear..

finally i got tired of chasing my own tail , ditched it and went aem and will never look at ANY piggyback set up again..

if you are keeping power levels in or around 400 rwhp or below then ls400 and safc should be okay so that you are not to worried about timing , what i have found once you start creeping into the mid 400's and up stock only relying on 2 knock sensors for timing adjustment is not a good idea , na ecu knows nothing of positive pressure much less 20psi of boost.

since going standalone 1 year ago i am able to run more boost on pump and trouble free...

rexst_ph

Thank you very much for your advice. I believe I will just sell the unused MAP ECU unit. I don't think I am quite ready to take the plunge for the AEM EMS unit given the price. However, if this is what it takes to make the vehicle perform soundly, then i'll cross the bridge when I get there. I think for now i'll give the ls400 MAF and 440 cc injectors a try since I already have them on hand. I am not seeking any monstrous horsepower numbers. I currently do 325 rwhp and was pretty much okay as long as driveability doesn't suffer. If I can get a potential 375-400 rwhp with the conversion to the LS400 MAF, then this is gravy that I was not even expecting. Are the 440's sufficient for sub 400 rwhp outputs? Should I use 550's or will these be a bit too much for the SAFC to manage? I want the vehicle to be able to drive part throttle and putter around as if it were a stock vehicle. PLease keep the suggestions and guidance coming. Thanks . By the way, Is the SAFC relatively painless to use? Do I set it up once and pretty much leave it alone or do I have to keep tweaking?

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

SAFC is pretty easy to use, get a wide band o2, and it's pretty simple. Just do a few searches on it, and you see, the SAFC has been around a long time so there a lot of guides out there. It's a rather universal device, it pretty much adds or subtracts fuel by altering the MAF/KMV/MAP sensor signal to the ecu.