lemmiewink

Ok,
I have a few questions that are quite noobish.
I'd rather look retarded and get the right answer then have my pride possibly kill my motor.

Ok, first noob question.

1) I check my oil quite frequently, and I notice that when it is cold and not running the dipstick reads sufficent levels of oil. I believe this is because theres no oil pressure and its not in the turbo lines etc. etc.

While it is running I check it and I expected that it would be lower, but it reads very low! Like it looks like no oil shows on the dipstick. Is this normal, or should I add oil till its somewhat full while running?

2)I have an aem uego wideband installed. Can somone tell me if the readings are correct.

Idle:11-12

slight accel: 14-15

sudden accel in vacuum: spikes up to full lean.. 17 and up.

once boost kicks in fully: it goes down to 10.

This is at a fuel pressure of around 31 psi with vacuum.

I recently changed it nearer to 40 psi in vacuum.
Now it doesn't read leaner than 15 in any condition, but when full boost kicks in it is so rich that it starts to show blinking dashed lines (which i suspect means so rich it can't even read it)

Should I keep it at 40 psi, or bring it down towards 31 again?

3) It seems that my car is running hot. But not overheating. The temp guage on the cluster will seem to quickly move to operating temp relatively quickly.

I pop the hood and it is very hot inside the engine bay. I can't keep my hand on the cold side intercooler piping near the throttle body cause it is very hot!

Is this normal? Also I live in texas, and its pretty hot outside haha.

It seems that I should know the answers, but I simply don't have them.

Thanks for being patient

BigGreen

iTrader: (2)

I am just as much as a noob as you, probably more since I havent even driven my car since i have just been finishing up my swap.

I know that my vaccum psi only reads around like 20 something and my stock boost is at 10psi. I havent yet installed my manual boost controller ( i am not sure how to hook it up correctly yet so any suggestions would be nice!).


So when my car is at idle it reads between 13 and 14.6 and under accel goes down to like 11 or 10 and then when i let off it spikes up to like 16/17. I am not sure if these is the correct way it is supposed to run either. I also have the aem uego controller.

Does anyone have some suggestions or answers to these questions

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Here's where my A/Fs read

14.5-15.3 idle
14.1.-15.3 in vacuum going down the highway
does spike to 16-27 for throttle is closed sometimes
11s when in boost


My vacuum is 20psi at idle, and max boost is 10psi right now.

I would drop fuel pressure back to stock LemmieWink, unless you are upping the fuel pressure and boost, then trimming the fuel with a piggyback.

With that much fuel pressure you need to trim the fuel back while under positive pressure conditions or you will run rich.

lemmiewink

I believe the stock fuel pressure range is around 32-41 psi while in vacuum. I put it back to 31 and reset my computer.

I know why the wideband reads lean when throttle is closed while in gear. But When I suddenly open up the throttle it spikes very lean for about a second. Usually 15-17. After that it drops down to 14 again until boost hits then it gets pretty rich.

Hopefully the car relearns.

Also, Does your engine heat up quickly? You are in texas so I am wondering if your intercooler piping is as hot as mine. Where are you at in texas?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Chaning your fuel pressure to reach your desired AFRs is a big no no. Unless you have the means to alter the map itself. Running that rich is not all that far from just as bad as 12+ AFR going lean under boost.
What is your vaccuum idle? What mods are you running? Have you done a compression check? Leak down test? When was the last time you changed your plugs? What are they gapped at? These questions will help you figure out where the problem might lie. Those first values that you posted are not that uncommon for basic BPU GTE. Regardless, check what I asked about and report back. Compression and leak down isn't necessary but it never hurts. More than likely you are just at the point where a piggyback is beneficial to your setup and you could reach the AFRs you want with simple changes.

lemmiewink

Compression test I have done already. Read around 160 +/- 5 psi on all but one cylinder. This 1 cylinder was pretty low which got me kind of worried. This test was done before I changed my head gasket.

Lead down test was not performed. I don't have an air compressor to do one.

vacuum idle is at 20 in hg.

Plugs were changed when I got the car running. So this past march. Gapped at umm... .032 inches.

So basically you say keep it stock unless I have a tuning instrument.
Hmm piggy back huh. I know safc isn't that great on map engines right? Recommend any?

Also, isn't running rich better than running lean? I swear I get uppity everytime I see it spike haha. Thanks for the input.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

No not necessarily. Running slightly rich, yes it's safer, but that is a very overgeneralized rule of thumb as there are much more factors that come into play when considering it "safe". But running pig rich is never good. All those values look good. Probably just time to get some kind of management.

lemmiewink

I see. I will research more on what exactly IS dangerous a/f levels. For one thing, at what point does slightly rich become pig rich?

What sign should a person be looking for when seeing an actual dangerous lean condition?

Thanks all for the advice and enlightenment.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Alot of people use the SAFC2 and the NEO with the 1jZ, it's very popular for setups up to 550cc injectors and around 500whp on a GTE.

I'm in the Austin area. Everything that isn't plastic in the engine bay pretty much gets heat soaked quickly.

mostly distilled water, 1/3 toyota red coolant, and 1 waterwetter.

I've noticed a decrease in power with these 100 degree days, but it doesn't go above 1/2, usually it sits slightly below half.

I'd like to get a mechanical temp guage and mount it right at the top radiator hose. I found all the parts, just haven't done it. I want to install a aux. electric fan somehow for extra cooling with the a/c.

lemmiewink

Yes, mine does the same thing as yours.

Although when we initially put in the engine, it would say that it was running hot. I did the temp gauge fix (adding a ground) and it seems to do the trick.

lfrers

iTrader: (9)

Thread revival just to post some info. Just in case anyone searches. I know it will never happen but...

Wideband readings
Air/Fuel Ratio Limits
6.0:1 Rich run limit
9.0:1 Low power, black smoke
11.5:1 Rich best torque at WOT
12.5:1 Safe best power at WOT
13.2:1 Lean best torque at WOT
14.7:1 Chemically ideal
15.5:1 Lean light load, part throttle
16.2:1 Best economy, part throttle
18-22:1 Lean run limit