O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

I've seen the various techniques that people are using on previous threads. Seems like everybody has a way to tackle it. I was wondering if I removed everything with a yellow arrow, would I be able to jack the intake up enough (8 inches or so) to allow me to get my hands in there and remove the starter?

(used my spare engine for taking pics )








I can clearly see the starter and it's wiring, bolts, etc... thanks to me having a spare engine to stare at. It makes things a LOT easier to have the engine out of the car without the firewall in the way since I can see unrestricted. Hell I can touch the starter, reach my arm into the engine, everything!

With this perspective I can see a lot better overall picture and it looks like if I pulled the items with the yellow arrow I should be able to lift the entire intake system straight up a few inches to reach in and grab the starter. Problem is that I seem to recall someone saying there may be a bolt somewhere under the top half of the intake that would prevent this and make it necessary to remove the intake piece by piece.

From what I can see with this nice open perspective, the entire intake system will lift directly off just by unbolting it at the heads.

Whatcha think?

Durrr

Just get rid of the EGR while you're back there . It looks like you're going to take off more than when I did it. There's not much more clearance that's required for the starter itself.

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

Brian,
havn't you been putting this starter pull off for awhile? Anyway, I think you are better just pulling the intake if you go that far. Its really not as bad as it seems. I think lifting the inatke could actually be harder. Just my opinion, coming from a guy that has pulled intakes and superchargers on the 1uz several times. Give it a try, worse thing that will happen is you end up having to take the rest loose and pull it.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Nope, only two bolts on the back of the engine (if you can get them with the whole upper intake in place)

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Ya it bit the dust today .

Well short of the rear portion of the engine harness I don't see much else keeping it from coming up that I outlined (didn't have a fuel line to outline on my spare engine so add that). I can get to the 2 bolts on the starter without removing anything thanks to some nifty tools I have from my days owning car audio stores. ..... I can't see ****** back there, but I can get to it . It doesn't look like it will even remotely come close to fitting out back of the intake with it in place, nor does it look like it will pass the firewall coming out the back.

I accept the intake must come up, but I can actually unbolt the starter and it's connector without removing anything at all on the engine, I just don't have a way to get it out the intake so I figured if I could get it up enough to pass the new starter in and the old one out I'd be ok.

The FSM shows 35 pages of instructions on how to remove the starter and most of it is disassembling the intake piece by piece which is B.S.. I know by the time I figure out what I am going to do there will be a write up on how to swap this starter my way and I can guarantee it will be minimal.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

OH, those gaskets between the intake and head..... they look metal from just glancing at them. Are they and do those need replacing normally?

Mr.NA_T

It might work...
Does hurt to try

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

You might get away with re-using them. I think they have a very thin black coating on them but I dont think it makes much difference. Its not like they seal any water, should be OK.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

If they don't seal any water or anything, why the hell does the FSM want me to drain the coolant?

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

Only water you would deal with is the small lines going to the TB and EGR. Have some small caps handy to plug them when you pull the lines and no coolant drain required.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Thank ya!

SHOLEXMAN

Okay okay you STILL haven't taken that damn thing out! Mr. starter virgin haha.... Other then that you can use the intake gasket between the upper and lower intake 1 time and get away with it. The throttle body gasket you cannot sadly cause that falls apart like 1893 paper. You can buy the gasket from the dealer or just cut out a thing piece of cereal box. Take off the intake tube,throttle body,upper intake, lower intake ,egr tube bolts on back of the intake,random wiring harness, fuel line to cold start fuel injector(94 and older),bolts holding down the rear wiring harness, rear cooling bridge (pain the the ***) then the 2 bolts to get the the actual starter(use a flex head 14mm wrench). I forgot a couple things here and there. Note careful with the fuel injector plastic clips when removing because they are 15 years old and they break. They won't stay when broken and you will loose a cylinder when that baby comes off lol. Use air tools it will get the job done faster. Use cut off bottles to hold the nuts and bolts cake man. Do it and stop procrastinating.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Bought the starter new for $120, labor quote from my local shop was only $149 so I can't pass that up. My day is worth more than that. Going to have it done in the morning.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

SHOLEXMAN

I hope that starter is from Toyota and not from some place that rebuilt it. REDPHOENIX had a issue with the teeth on the starter hitting the flex plate and it sounding like rod knock. That labor rate it awesome go for it cause it is not worth the time doing it yourself. Hope that starter doesn't cause any issues cause you will be without a care for another day....