sc250tt

Great write up matt, Nice work too.

SHOLEXMAN

That cannot be used doesn'tmatch up corretly. They sell a flywheel on uza70.com that is made directly for the 1uz.

As mentioned before it is hear say and condition of the transmission. After 400hp or so would be good to change over to a r-154 ,but after so much HP nearly any stock tranny not made for boost will give out evetually. This application is more for the people that want to daily drive a 5 speed and not put over 500 HP. That and just for the fun of it to have one since the trannies where never manual. If your putting down more power wait till they have the R-154 adaptor plate then buy that.

If you use the W58 out of a SC300 or a NA 93 and up Supra you can use the stock driveshaft. You do have the option of getting one made just remember to measure the distance from the tranny to the diff and how many splines there are.

OneSickSC

well my tranny went out in my sc4 so im just gonnna try a swap it to manual.....one question......should i just buy this whole kit?.....

http://uza70.com/store/catalog/produ...products_id=46

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

lol, but they dont as I said earlier. The r154 adapter plate is seriously 3 times the thickness of the W58's and the bolt pattern is different. Yes the R154's is being made. Paintience is a virtue and it will be out sometime soon. Most of the drawing is done, but we need to test it in a car before we sell it. We have a test subject... but we need to align the earth moon and sun to get it all to work (so to speak).




It is cheaper to buy the kit vs individual parts. PM'd.

Asha'man

iTrader: (1)

Didn't know you had a steel flywheel option now, that brings the kit cost way down. I dig it.

EDTUN3R

I might be doing this just to get the fun out of the V8 Until I get the 2JZ in Place! Unless the V8 Is Too Addicting.

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

The V8 is very addicting once you boost it. All Toyota V8 love boost. They'll double the stock power with just a low boost system.

JDMmuscle

iTrader: (9)

Hey man, hows the R154 kit coming dude? =)


and its been a while, hows the 5spd working out?

OMD

yeah, i'm wondering here too.. i might get my r154 next week..
btw, what would be the difference in terms of power and torque when using the steel flywheel opposed to the aluminum one?

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

The aluminum flywheel, being lighter, would simply decrease the mass of the rotating assembly, making the drivetrain spin more effortlessly. This would allow the motor to run through the rev range more easily and operate at higher revs with less stress. Main benefits would include being able to rev match downshifts more quickly and making the motor more "rev happy."

Now, if the lightened flywheel will allow the rotating assembly increase speed more effortlessly, it will allow the rotating assembly to decrease speed more effortlessly as well. When coasting down a hill with the clutch disengaged, the addition of a lightened flywheel will make it more difficult to maintain one's speed (compared to the steel flywheel). Consider this same effect while cruising on the highway, the heavier flywheel will make the car able to maintain its speed more easily than a lighter flywheel, resulting in better highway mpg.

Another drawback to the lightening of the flywheel is that with less mass on the rotating assembly, it is more difficult to generate torque from a dig. Consider attaching a torque wrench to a tiny bolt on the inside of a radio versus attaching a torque wrench to a massive bolt attached to the frame of a vehicle. As hard as you want to push on that tiny bolt, it will only allow you to generate so much torque. On the other hand, the massive suspension bolt will allow you to lay into it with much measurable torque. Lightening the drivetrain will limit the amount weight used for leverage, making torque harder to come by. This is generally only an issue for towing and mudding applications, where low down torque is essential...and, of course, this effect can be overdone to the point wherer the car bogs down from the added mass.

That being said, the effect of altering the weight of the flywheel by a few pounds will not significantly effect the torque production of the motor (especially in a sturdy car behind a V8 with a heavy drivetrain). To boot, the negative alterations to fuel economy will also be insignificant. Well, at least these affects are often seen as minor drawbacks to a significant positive change in "revability," which translates to more fun behind the wheel. Being able to rev match more quickly and being able to rev through to the redline more effortlessly (once above, say, 2.5k rpm) is a significant advantage in terms of the performance aspects of the vehicle.

On the other hand, if you were adding a lightened flywheel to a Geo Metro in the hopes of more pep from a stop light and more fuel economy on the highway, you would be sorely disappointed as the car would need more revs to accelerate at the same pace in the low rpm range and the effect to highway fuel economy in a light car behind a 3 cylinder with a featherweight drivetrain would be noticeable.

In my opinion, don't break your budget to get the aluminum flywheel. The difference between it and the steel flywheel will not be a difference of 2-to-1 like the price would suggest. But, if you can afford it, then the positive effects of the aluminum flywheel will generally be enjoyed by the driver.

AZTurbo

iTrader: (10)

Great pics, great write up! Great job!

OMD

thanks blizzy, very well said! i had the same idea, but you made it much clearer to me.. thanks...



RedPhoenix: hows the r154 adapter coming along?

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys.

Yeah the adapter plate drawings are done... I need to get it cut, costs money... But its ready to go when I can afford to spend some money on it. Been a rough week on the car as far as wasting money.

jstyles129

Just curious now being able to rev the car through the gears higher. Will that allow you to put out more HP then the stock auto initially could?

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

Being able to take each gear to 6250 manually rather than shifting at 6000 (or at least sending the message to shift at 6000) as the stock auto does will not increase power alone without trimming the fuel with a piggyback computer since the stock fuel map is so rich in the high rpm that peak hp is made at ~5300rpm. This essentially means that you are losing hp the higher and higher you rev beyond ~5300 since neither the fuel delivery nor the cam timing is optimized to make power that deep into the rev band.

The major difference in hp production by going with a manual will not be an increase in hp made by the motor but rather in increase in hp that is perceived by the driver because of the minimization of parasitic intertial and frictional losses in the drivetrain. While the motor will not be able to make any more power with the manual, less power will be lost along the way to the road, and -thus- more power will make it to the road. This is definitely a good thing.