RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I'm currently standing at the turbocharged crossroads. I apologize for the long winded post in advance. I don't expect most people to read all this, but if you do. Thank you!

I cannot for the life of me decide which way to turbocharge my 1995 SC300 5speed. I like most people am trying to maximize every dollar while not wasting my hard earned greenbacks.

I've followed countless links from all the major and minor forums.

Unfortunately, it's not as simple as- "just go NAT", and I will tell you why.

Going NA-T is assuming your stock 2jzge motor is ready for boost.(good compression,passes leakdown testing, and doesn't have a lot of oil leaks)

My current GE motor has 157k miles, and has an excellent maintenance record. 3 timing belts, water pump at 110k etc...

I'd be on a stock W58 which means I'd be low boost for awhile, whichever way I go.

Last week my harmonic dampner(crank pulley) started to wobble. I tried to get it off to no avail, so I'm currently waiting on the SST Toyota tools to BOTH arrive at my house(I have only received the companion flange tool thus far).

While inspecting thing's under the car, we noticed oil all over the driver side of the block. As of now I'm guessing that it's the headgasket leaking or the oil filter housing flange is leaking where it bolts to the block.

Whichever way I go with it, I decided to pull the motor to replace all the seals/gaskets, and have the head checked at a minimum.

So here is where I stand, and why I am asking for your opinions.

The stock GE motor is coming out no matter what I do at this point.

So, I'm wondering if it's worth having the head redone, and looking closely at the block for possible rings etc..

That would immediately put me at $2-3000k to have a fresh stock GE with GTE headgasket/seals, built by the most experienced '1/2Jz' machine shops in town.

Then I would need an NA-T turbo kit,clutch,electronics,tuning etc.. on top of all that work. I was thinking XSPower because they're the best bang for the buck. I don't think the resell value of the car w/XS Power parts would be near as much as if it had a clean 1jz/2jz swap.

I could also find a lower mileage 2jzge motor and swap that in, but it would still need timing belt, water pump and all that stuff replaced anyways.

So for me going NA-T is not going to be the budget route most people say it is.

I of course would like the 2jzgte, but it isn't an easy swap for the DIY type of guy like I am. I don't have the time or patience any longer to have a car sit that long not running.

My most recent thought is 1JZ!. The wiring is mostly plug n play, and there's a couple recent 95 yr. model 1jz swaps on this very forum that were fairly well documented I might add. The 1j gets better MPG

Also, if I act very soon(like next week) I can pick out of 3 different complete 1jz swaps that included everything.

I could resell my GE & the 1jz auto trans for at least $500 bucks to offset some of the cost too.

Only thing I don't like are the ceramic turbos, but if I'm stock boost, that shouldn't matter much right?

What do you guys think?

I'm sorry for the long post, when I do decide to go through with it. There will be a massive How-To with tons of pictures. My way of paying it forward.

But basically, this all sums up my thoughts for the last couple of weeks on the topic.

Thanks,
Ryan

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

Sounds well thought out, If your looking at reliability, resale value, and low boost, I suggest the 1jz... Ive done both and each has its benefits but from what you've said, the 1jz seems like a smarter option. Why spend all that money on a GE motor when your staying at low boost? The 1jz will also not require any tuning and you'll be left with a car that drives like a factory car. You can also turn the boost up on the 1jz a to make more power without any extra tuning involved, 12-13lbs would definitely add some power without compromising the stock ceramic turbos.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Hey Ryan, this is Bill. After talking with you this week and reading that book I would say to go the 1jz route (YEA WHAT CCC SAID) . I will tell you that if I do pick up another sc I will go that route for my daily driver.

I would pull your motor and either build it on the side (taking your time) or just sell it and take the money for a kit for the 1jz.

Does the kit you are looking at in Dallas include the tranny or just the ECU/harness/engine? I would snag that quick and you should be able to drop it in quick. If you nee to run by for any help let me know. I told you to come over and let me take that bolt off for you

side note: I got my supra TT harness and ECU in. Going to try to drop the engine in on Sunday to bring to the muffler shop to make the IC pipes and dp early next week.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

Hey, what's up Bill!

If you need a hand Sunday let me know.

I might go ahead and yank the motor Saturday since I have SST Toyota tools I should be able to get the bolt off fairly easy, even with the motor out of the car.

Then again I might be bringing the motor down to your place so you can hit it with the Earthquake!

tavarish

iTrader: (2)

Go 1jz. it's a stock boosted engine, you can sell your old 2j.

Also, you can take off the harmonic balancer with a regular 3 leg pulley at autozone. I rented it for free, got the pulley off in 15 seconds.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I couldn't even manage to get the crank bolt off by using a couple recommended methods, and my impact gun is too weak.

I decided to order the factory toyota special tools. Not only do they allow you to remove the crank pulley. It's also the best way to hold the motor while you torque the flywheel bolts.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

id do the 1jz but im quite biased! honestly tho 1jz would be the best option.

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

I agree on doing the 1jz. I'm a bit biased too though.

ahhyes300

iTrader: (2)

It's not like the 1J was forged from the hand of God, and not going to need things replaced as well. Lol. Buying a used motor doesn't always go exactly to budget. Even though I'm quite biased myself, I must say in your situation, the 1JZ makes more sense. But do yourself a favor and ditch the ceramics, even if all you can afford is a used 50 trim. I have two friends with 1J's: an SC with stock twins bpu and a MK3 with a 60-1. I would rather drive the busted MK3 than the Baller SC, that's how much I dislike the twins. They make the exhaust note not sound as good, 13psi feels weak, and they just cause him problems. This of course is just my experience. 1JZ+medium sized cheap single= win.

1985zcar

iTrader: (1)

Congrats, you're the 871237843264782676 person to make this thread!

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I plan on changing these thing's before installation. Let me know if I missed something.

Front rear main seal
Timing belt/belt pulley
water pump/seal
oil pump?????????

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Just get the gasket kit from DriftMotion. It runs about $150 for the kit. Its a basic overhaul.

1985zcar

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to change the oil pump.

T-Belt, tensioner, water pump, cam seals, front and rear mains, and you should be pretty good. Listen to JspecSC3

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

+1 for the 1JZ. It doesn't sound like you want all out ***** power...yet.

Any stock engine is reliable (depending on the last owner though) so the 1JZ sounds like your best power option. I would recommend upgrading to an R154 or V160 sometime in the future. The W58 will hold for the time being, just as long as you don't abuse it with hard launches and high rpm shifts all day. My W58 has 161k on it with RP 75w140 and it is starting to get harder each time i shift gears. I don't know how good your 5-speed is, but with it's track record in high HP catagories it might not last long.

I have a friend with a MKIII 2JZ who started with the W58. It folded pretty quickly under the power (it had a T70 low boost). R154 swap and hasn't looked back since.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I bought a SOARER R154 from a guy in Florida 6-7 yrs ago for my 89+ Supra, and never used it.

I finally sold it about 3 years ago not knowing I'd be needing it.

Should I change the timing belt hydraulic tensioner or the round timing belt idler tensioner?.

Thanks!
Ryan