That-Guy

iTrader: (1)

.......................

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Dropkick those morons in the face, then laugh at them and tell them to go back to their tiburons.

No, they don't mean extra power.

When you say that it runs lean in high RPMs and won't idle right, those are two completely different scenarios that more or less have no connection whatsoever.

To cut it to the point you sound like to need to read up on basics of everything, from fuel injection to forced induction. No offense, but before you go doing anything else to that car you need to understand what exactly it is you're doing. If you say you want things done right and you mean it then you will take this advice.

Go full standalone, it's one of the best choices you can make. You should go bigger injectors, 1 because yes you will eventually get bored at that power level, trust me. Secondly, because even if you have 550s you can still make 300 hp, it all depends on your tune. Why not have it there when you need it? You can't really go wrong overpreparing if it is done properly and you know the limitations and requirements of your goals. Do your own research, all of this will start to make sense.

ekrebs

More fuel and a nice tune = More power!

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

no you will not get an instant jump in power with bigger injectors, but the ceiling for high horsepower will go up. With bigger injectors you can turn up you boost without worrying about detonation. I think you're problem is that you're tune isn't quite right. What kind of fuel management are you currently running?

Also what kind of turbo kit are you using right now?

1985zcar

iTrader: (1)

Bigger injectors typically mean you have the ability to make bigger power, but in this case, that sounds like it isn't what you're after. If you're trying to get about 300-350hp, and you're running 440s, you should be okay I would think...

v8soarer91

stdcc = 300 atw = over 90% duty cycle
300cc = 300 atw = 80% duty cycle
400cc = 300 atw = 70% duty cycle
500cc = 300 atw = 60% duty cycle
600cc = 300 atw = 50% duty cycle
700cc = 300 atw = 40% duty cycle

(table is a not a true representation of cc of injectors, 300 atw , @ % duty cycle)

More CC's allows more head room for TUNING for when more Hp is needed.

Loking at the kit you need a Fuel Pressure Pegulator.
Have you installed the Walbro Fuel Pump which was provided in the kit it seems to be too small at 255hp?

If using Low Impedance Injectors, A balast resistor must be used.
http://www.aempower.com/images/produ...%2030-1101.pdf

Start-up calibrations included
Live help window eases tuning process
Set-up Wizard creates a custom base map for your car

Have a good chat with a AEM Dealer in your area.
http://www.aempower.com/LocateDealer.aspx

They should point you in the right direction for a tuner and search AEM forums they might have information on good, bad tuners.

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

What engine management are you currently running? And what are your reasons for getting rid of it, specifically?... Sorry i'm just curious lol

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

rule of thumb

1cc for every hp however never go above 80% duty cycle on any injector

at 430 rwhp for 440cc injector is running it at almost 100% duty cycle which means you can overheat the inj and lock it up which = kaboom while in boost


rule of thumb # 2 , you can never have enough injector (within reason of course) using 550cc for 300 to 350 is a great idea or like in my case i use 750cc and i am putting down just 500.. its nice to have a higher ceiling or margin just in case you spike in boost or wastegate vac hose pops off and you over boost


since you are doing the right thing going aem , go with 525 or 550 and your tuner will control them just fine heck at idle my 750 cc are at .5 duty cycle which means they are almost off and my car idles steady and smooth at around 14.7 a/f like stock

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

A larger quantity of efficient combustion means more power.

Larger injectors translate to a larger quantity of fuel, which does not necessarily mean a larger quantity of efficient combustion.

Larger injectors without the proper fuel delivery alterations will only make the car run rich, taking away from the efficiency of the current amount of combustion occuring...reducing power.

Larger injectors with the proper fuel delivery alterations will maintain efficiency but increase the quantity of combustion, thus increasing power. However, this boost in power can only be realized if the current injector size was limiting the fuel delivery from achieving a level of maximum efficiency (~12.5:1 air-to-fuel ratio).

If you are running lean under boost and are having idle issues, you likely have an injector problem. You at least have a fuel delivery problem, which may or may not be able to be ironed out with better fuel management alone. With better fuel management and larger injectors, you can bet that you will neither lean out on the top end nor run rich on the low end. But, you can bet that you will have more power available to you should you choose to tune for efficient combustion (and, why would you not if your set up would allow it?).

In the case of the stock vehicle, larger injectors would actually be a poor performance decision, since the stock fuel map runs already runs very rich on the top end, where peak power is being made. On a normally aspirated vehicle, the most productive power gains would be felt from taking fuel out of the top end. The easiest way to do this would not be to run smaller injectors but to get a very simple fuel management system to trim fuel from the high rpms to keep the AFR at ~12.5:1 rather than at the ~9-10:1 that the stock fuel map runs (to play it safe).

If your car's tune has been maximized with your current injectors and you are having issues with AFR under boost and at idle, you probably need either better fuel management to maintain a smooth idle and larger injectors to prevent leaning out under boost. If your car is not tuned, a better tune may be able to give you the fuel you need on the top end while cleaning out the idle issues.

But, if you are set on not making any more power, you might find it easiest to just scale back the boost at the wastegate, get the car re-tuned with your current fuel management device, and then not risk leaning out and blowing your motor when you are getting on the throttle because less boost will deliver less air and require less fuel for any given turbo.

I hope that helps clarify things a bit.

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

Blizzy has pretty much covered the concept of the fuel injectors for the power. Anyway, here's the link to RC injectors that you can calculate very closely to what injector size you need for the power goal. http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx?...OhZYx89Pyf1bBw

With an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you can increase the fuel pressure and run smaller injectors that can accommodate for more power.

kaneda3

uhhh, doesnt that have a great deal to do with the number of cylinders/injectors? even between 4 and 6 cylinder cars. running 550 injectors on a subaru to make 400whp is dumb but 550's on a supra to make 400whp is more then safe, no?

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

You'll need to check out the link that I posted to have the injector sizing calculation for the safe engine. No need to guess.

rx4sc

get off the computer chumo fix your car first!!!

kaneda3

im just saying that the #1 rule of thumb that he listed isnt accurate.

YeA 2jZ

iTrader: (15)

Very informative thread