Alright heres the back story,

Finally got the car to crank using a JDM wiring harness, and got the fuel pump priming. But it still would not spark.

So we started troubleshooting.

First we took out a sparkplug and put it in a coil pack and tried to see if it gets spark by grounding it out and turning the engine over. No spark.

So I looked over the wiring diagrams and checked continuity in all the plugs associated with the coilpacks. They all have continuity.

I checked resistence in all the coilpacks which they all are around ~1 ohm. Specs say that good packs are .5~.89 ohms. So they are out of spec.

Before I replace them I want to make sure that the ignitor or the ecu is not at fault.


Is there any way to check the ignitor, and the ecu in this regard?

The repair manual says that in order to check I would need some kind of diagnostic connector that enable me to check ecu terminals without unplugging the ecu.

Any information would be a big help. Thanks!

 

i dought this helps you but i was having a similar issue and i checked everything, and i do mean everything! the ignitor gave voltages but would not start at all. i changed out my ignitor and it started fine. id replace the ignitor before anything else should only be about $130 from drift motion for a brand new one

 

is it throwing any codes? I think the igniter chip would throw a code.

from a different forum...
Another way to test it is with a test lite,,connect a test lite
1 lead to the neg side of the coil the other to any good ground,
have someone crank the engine,
if test lite pulses it is a bad COIL ..
if test lite does NOT pulse it is a bad IGNITER

 

Thanks biggu, I ordered an ignitor and it will be on its way shortly. So your ignitor just went bad?

 

Hey that sounds like a good idea. The power is straight from the battery so even if your ignitor was bad, your coils should have power waiting at one of the wires. I believe that the ignitor provides the ground at the appropriate times to create and distribute sparks to the cylinders.

Having a test light will read whether current is being transferred towards the spark plugs at the apropriate times.

I did something similar, but please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

I tested for voltagebetween the power wire to the coils (orange with black tracer connecting to the coil pack) and the "ground" side which is the other wire on the 2 wire plug while cranking the motor.

I suppose if the igniter is good it should pulse voltage. I tried this and no voltage came.

If I am right about what the igniter does then this would mean that the igniter is bad right?

Anyone care to check the resistence on their coilpacks haha?

 

i wish mine just went bad. my car was jumped backwards causing no start after. i checked all fuses, replaced all relays on my car, check the coil packs and never got spark. checked everything from the coils to the ignitor and all of the voltages seemed fine so i was convinced that it would be the ECU but my buddy let me try his ignitor and when i went to start it it hesitated at first. after that i knew it would start so i cranked it again and it turned over so that fixed my issue. your issue seems exactly the same symptoms as my car so im willing to be its the ignitor.

 

Did you check for resistence on the coil packs? If so what were your values.

 

Well it wasn't the ignitor. So I ponied up the cash for new coils. Those damn things are expensive. Tested the way Goby said to and I got voltage, sothat means the coils are bad.

 

Tried it with new coil packs. Still no spark!! I'm so stumped. what would cause a no spark condition?

 

Check if you got voltage at the coil packs. Ground one side to the batter, and the other pin on the DVOM to the B+ on the wires for the coil packs. Do this for all 6. I got ~1 ohms on my coilpacks as well but it runs. Check if you're getting voltage to your ECU on the B+ and the 1B+ wire. Check if you're getting voltage to the igniter. Check for CEL code. Had the same problem recently, fuel but no spark. Turn out it was my crank sensor. So check your cam and crank sensor for resistance.

 

Theres voltage going to everything you are saying. Theres a CEL its error 41 which is TPS. No cel about the crank sensor though. I will check for resistance.

 

crank sensor is not even givin me a reading the ohms do not jump or anything. They just stay at "1" which is what the meter says before I touch the terminals.

I was not able to test my cam sensor though. Looked at the manual, seems there are supposed to be 2 on usdm, but I can only fine one on mine. Going to research that too.

 

Took off the crank sensor and I found the wires were severed. Thats why I couldn't take a reading. I ordered a replacement and we will go from there. Thanks to those who helped!

 

Wish I'd have saw this when you posted it. I knew immediately what it was when I saw the first few posts.

 

Where are the crank and cam sensors on the 1J? I wanna check mine to make sure they're alright.