Sup2jzgte

I just cant win lol. So today I changed my oil and filter for the first time since I got the car in late July...........the oil was blacker than black, but thats besides the point right now.

So all is fine all day long, I drove my car about 30 miles parked it and went to watch the white sox for a few hours. So about a half hour ago I head outside to go to subway and all is still fine.........about 3 miles down the road my CEL pops on So tomorrow Im going to head to autozone and see what the deal is. I'm just curious if this has happened to anyone else.

The really odd thing is the car is running the best since I got it. For the first time the car was shifting at the right points and felt like it had power..................then the damn cel pops on

93sc3005sp

Synthetic oil will do that jk, its prolly just a cowinsadence, however you spell it

TheMole

iTrader: (13)

Just get a scanner and read the cel code. How many quarts of oil did you put in? As mentioned, might be a coincidence.

Sup2jzgte

5.5qts as the the manual says...........yeah I'm starting to think its a coincidence as well, I will have autozone read the codes for me tomorrow. I'm hoping for the best

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

If you don't have any performance issues then i think that it might be P0420 reduced catylist efficiency. Just a wild guess, but I've seen it a couple of times before and won't effect overall performance, just emissions. Had that twice on my car, and simply reset the ECU and never came back. Don't reset your computer until you find out though. And don't ask the Autozone guy/gal what could be wrong they are paid to scan cars not to diagnose car trouble. Trust me

Sup2jzgte

Ok so its a p0135 DTC P0135 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1), where is this located? I think its on the drivers side but im not sure. I guess this was in there to begin with because there was a pending code and it was the same same one.

Can this effect the performance of the car or it is just emissions?

Sup2jzgte

Would this one work http://www.autozone.com/R,60416/stor.../addToList.htm

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

there is no O2 sensor on the drivers side on a 2JZ. They are all located on the exhaust manifold and after the catalytic converter in the exhaust. There are 3 total sensors on an SC3. Bank one means that the sensor comes before the cat. Sensor one is the O2 sensor closest to the front of the car. It could be the O2 sensor is bad or the wiring around the sensor is fried. Both performance and emissions will be affected because O2 sensors tell the computer about lean and rich conditions in the engine and could throw fuel numbers out of wack reducing fuel economy. It will most likely need to be replaced and is very easy to access. When you look at the exhaust manifold there will be 2 sensors, one on the back and one on the front. The one that is having problems is the one in the front. You might need to remove part of the intake piping but that is simple to do.

When i get the chance ill run through how to test it properly with a simple volt meter.

Slow_Sc3

iTrader: (1)

bank one is cylinder 1-3, sensor 1 would be the top most sensor.

Sup2jzgte

Thanks guys, I found the sensors on the manifolds after I posted this up. I tested it with my OHM meter and it is completely dead, so it looks like I'm going to be replacing it.

Does this really effect performance or just emissions?

1sxyrxy

not performance neccerly, wont go into closed loop, just ****ier gas milage

StiCk3

iTrader: (5)

well it would effect performance a little because of a richer fuel mixture (which the computer does by default in order to compensate) so there might be a slight loss of power overall, but nothing seriously noticable.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

I'm not sure what the ECU logic is with a dead o2 heater but, the purpose of the heater is to warm up the sensor faster on a COLD engine. O2 senors are more accurate when hot so a heater is put in so that the engine can go into closed loop faster.

Just a guess, with the dead o2 heater, the ECM will not run closed loop until the engine coolant temp hits x degrees.

DO IT!!!!

KC