OneSickSC

i adjusted that cable an it helped alot i think that was the problem...as for the sensor i have the one right the bell housing unplugged.....when i take it for a test drive later today i'll stop an get my codes checked also an let u know wat code its throwing....also can u send me an ecu pin out for a 96+ i wanna try an cut the wire from the ecu an plug back in the sensor an see how that works for me.

THANKS
David

OneSickSC

did all that stuff and for some reason my car shifts at 5k in all gears now......i'll have to take a look at it when i get off work.....if u all have anymore idead plz lmk.

Thanks
David

andrewwake

iTrader: (1)

where's the cable at? i think i am going to go try this in a couple minutes.

andrewwake

iTrader: (1)

did it! first off, the o/d plug was so brittle most of the plastic broke off. secondly, wow does it squat! it has a much better off the line. however on wot from 1st to 2nd it slips, it feels like someone who is trying to race in a manual and doesn't know how too shift all to well. rpms drop then it shifts. from a 20mph roll, it doesn't do the best job downshifting. however it still takes those rpms up quicker. i'm going to leave it unplugged for a little while and see how it does, but the o/d light might begin to annoy me.

can you send me the the ecu pin# for a 93 sc400? thanks.

also, which cable am i supposed to adjust? one closest to front of the car or the cabin?

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Ok guys, sorry to take so long to respond.

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OneSickSC, remember that I'm not sure how an obdII car will respond to unplugging the sensor so your kind of a test subject here. I really wouldn't think it would affect the shift points but I don't know for sure.

How much did you adjust the cable? Should only do it a tiny bit at a time. Try plugging the sensor back in and see if it goes back to the way it was. Also wouldn't be a bad idea to do an ECU reset inbetween changes.

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andrewwake, yes the overdrive light flashing is very annoying. I will try and look up the ecu pin location for you tomorrow.

I very much doubt that unplugging the sensor has anything to do with your trans slipping. Do you normally drive it hard? Possible it would have done the same thing before you just don't really get on it much? Plug the sensor back in and try it.

The cable is the one closest to the front of the car. If you follow the cables, you'll see that one goes to the cruise control box (if you have cruise), one goes into the firewall (throttle cable) and one disappears down behind the engine (trans throttle valve cable).

Since you guys are adjusting cables anyway, it wouldn't be a bad idea to take all the slack out of the throttle and cruise cables while you're at it. You'd be amazed how much of a difference can be felt by tightening up the throttle cable.

KC

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

So, I MAY have found my problem. Both of my solenoids are testing at about 15 ohms each. Spec is about 5 ohms. Hmmm, three times the resistance could be a problem. Definately possible that a pair of lazy solenoids could cause shift issues, including my bouncing on the limiter problem.

Now, by the book testing involves removing the solenoids and checking resistance between the solenoid connector and the solenoid body. I tested them through the ECU connector to ground. But, I VERY much doubt that I'm picking up 10 ohms through the wiring, body and transmission. When I put my battery in the trunk, I did some ground testing and found that between a stud in the trunk and a stud under the hood I had less than 1 ohm resistance. Think it was like .3 or .4 ohms.

If anyone knows where I can buy new or has a few spare solenoids to sell, PLEASE let me know. I priced them at work today and they are freakin $180 EACH, WITH MY DISCOUNT!

KC

andrewwake

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the response. i'll be honest, i drive my car like a bat out of hell and it didn't slip beforehand. so i'm going to plug it back in tomorrow and see what's up.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Here's the digram for a 95. Took a quick look at the 93 diagram yesterday and it appears that the only difference is the lack of the trans temp sensor on the 93.

Let me know if you need any help finding the wire and make sure you are sure before cutting anything.

KC

andrewwake

iTrader: (1)

so the wire is the SLN- from the engine control module correct? black/red wire?

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Yes, pin 13 connector e12. E12 is the bigger connector of the two at the ECU. Scroll down to the bottom of the diagram to see the connector and pin locations.

If I'm not mistaken, with the connector plugged into the ECU, pin 13 is on the top to the left side of the 10mm bolt that holds the connector.

Make sure you cut the wire in a way that will easily allow you to repair it, just in case you don't like the results.

KC

OneSickSC

i havent had time to go get my codes checked....but i'm still having the same problem....sometimes a WOT the car shifts at 5k even from a dead stop....then some times it shifts at redline....when it shifts at 5k the car feels like its not at WOT u can feel the front end drop as if the car lost power at around 3-4k....any ideas?

OneSickSC

got codes checked came up with ....

p0430 catalyst efficiency low-bank 2
p0715 they could not figure out wat this was but the guy thinks its a bad speed sensor....can some one check an let me know

VJZ

iTrader: (3)

What about the SC300?

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

P0715 is for the unplugged sensor.

SC300's do not have an accumulator pressure control solenoid unitl 98. You could still shim the accumulators if you're up for dropping the valve body. You could also adjust the throttle valve cable.

For my car, I ordered shift and lock up solenoids. Hopefully they will stop my engine from bouncing on the limiter at WOT 1-2 shift. If so, I'll be at the track ASAP to note the time difference.

KC

OneSickSC

my car has problems lol.....all day today it shifter at redline......yet lastnight it was shifting at 5k lol