Tony320

Alright so I’ve been researching this for a couple weeks and was hoping to get a bit of input from the folks around here. Please note that all figures are based on estimates available on the forums mentioned below and manufacturers websites, and that I would like to retain my 2jz-ge motor (don't want to mess with orderinga jdm 1jz, etc)

Starting with the basics I’ve pieced together from CL, SF, and Clubna-t, I should be putting out about 180whp (225bhp – 20% loss through the drivetrain). The stock drivetrain should be able to handle anything less than 300whp, the stock injectors and ECU should be able to handle anything less than 350whp.

That being said, my goal is to make 260-290whp, and I’m trying to figure out the best way to accomplish that goal. It appears that my most cost effective option would be to go with F/I.

Staying NA would mean new headers (17bhp), intake (maybe 5bhp), single 3” exhaust (10bhp) for a total of 33bhp or 26.4whp. That leaves me at 206.4whp. So FI seems to be the main option unless I’m missing something on the NA side, but from what I’ve found a port/polish wouldn’t accomplish much and there isn’t a whole lot else to do to the motor w/o spending oodles of money.

Given all this information, I’m looking into what all I would need to do in terms of FI to reach the 260-290whp range. Of course I’ve seen the XS power, Dave H kits and whatnot. Using a few boost calculators it looks like running 7-8psi would get me to 265whp-280whp respectively.

I guess I still need to look up what the stock fuel pump is capable of in terms of output, or if I’d need to buy a walbro.

My main concerns are reaching this goal while maintaining a reliably functioning daily drive. (although my SC is my DD, I do own a beater ’94 lesabre, so downtime is not going to kill me.)

So, does all of this look more or less correct to you? Any ideas/recommendations?

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Done

Jonny

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

I would go with a fuel pump from a Supra TT. They're just as good if not better than the Walbro and are quieter.

Toshima

Get i/h/e and a 100 shot and you will get there. That probably the only way to get that much with out going FI. And still staying on a small budget.

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

But twice as expensive...

Jonny

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Intake, Headers, Full exhaust, 150 Shot of DRY nitrous shaved 2-3 seconds off my track time. Not exactly sure on how much HP. If you want to improve those gains you can always go with some GE cams and upgrade to a direct port 150 shot of WET nitrous and bump up the fuel pressure with a better fuel pump.

FormosaSC

Go FI man, youll get to where you want power wise

mex lex

iTrader: (4)

Yes boost is the way to go if you want to make power. However, you can still reach your goal with NA with bolt ons and spray. If you do decide to go the NA route, look up the mazzuri header for the IS300. Best header you can buy and the biggest gain you can make with a bolt on on the 2JZGE. Gains are 24whp and 28wtq. Get also an intake, catback, cam gear and top it off with the e-manage ultimate for fuel management.

SCoupe

imho (and many others) the oem MKIV fuel pump is likely worth every cent because failure is almost unheard of. Walbro's are hit and miss, search SupraForums with the terms: Walbro + Failure and realize that this may not be the place to try to save $100.

MDeezy

I say go F/I. Go for a rear mount setup and you'll save a lot of money versus the traditional way of going F/I.

Tony320

that for all the helpful input, I think F/I is the way I'm going to to go, i'm a little skittish of N02. I haven't looked into the rear mount turbo setup yet, I'll be sure to check it out.


thanks for the heads up about the fuel pump, its nice to have a few leads on issues I might want to follow up on.

In the meantime, I may have to look into the mazzuri headers while I save for a kit, or while I piece together my own

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Rear mount? Like on the GMs? This should be interesting.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

I HIGHLY doubt you'd spend less on a rear-mount setup than a budget-minded engine bay system. It might be better for cars that don't have a big aftermarket of turbo systems (like LSx cars and LQ-trucks), but I think it'd be cheaper to go with a budget-minded in-engine-bay system for any 2jz car.

Tony320

So from what I've found regarding rear mount turbo systems, they are not going to be much less expensive than the systems everyone over at Clubna-t, but will have the added drawback of exposing the turbos in the undercarriage of the car, making them more susceptible to damage from road debris. I won't go into the whole debate regarding lag time and whatnot, but base price for the kit is still $1.9k, more expensive than some and cheaper than others. Still it was interestin g to look into.

I think I'll either buy a standard setup or piece one together.