marek955i

Great post. Thanks a bunch for all the information

JJsc3

Great post! I just bought a used set of mkiii clutch/brake pedal. Hey, do you know if the mkiii brake pedal will work? I plan to remove just the pedal from the complete assembly, and stick it to my sc300 brake pedal assembly. I'm going to remove the sc300 pedal, but will leave the remaining assembly bolted on. See what I'm saying..?

Also.., are you basically saying I can use one of the holes from the existing sc300 clutch master cylinder pre-drilled markings? That would mean hole 20 of the 10:20 you mentioned earlier right?, lol.. Also, is the bolt for the reference point directly below hole 20?

One of your pictures show that you cut out quite large of hole for the clutch master cylinder center piston to fit right through. Isn't that hole too large, or did it just look larger from that picture? From what I can see under the hood, your clutch master cylinder covers up that hole completely, so I guess it was just the picture.

I don't understand why would it be necessary to cut at the place where you put 2 red lines from your picture. Explain this part please...

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

JJsc3,

I do not know for certain if it will or will not, I am planning on doing this eventually so I can't answer that for you. You may be able to find an answer if you search hard enough. I would like to say that it would, but I cannot confirm it, sorry.


Lol you have me confused about hole 20... Let me see if I can put more clearly:

I believe what you are saying is correct. Use the existing predrilled bottom bolt hole for alignment of the assymbley. What I meant with the times were simply the degrees that it needed to be rotated, when aligning it with the existing predrilled bottom bolt hole.

The reason that the hole is so large is because I had to cut two holes. The first hole I cut was the stock cutout pattern. Then I had to recut it once I figured out the stock patter wouldn't work. This is why I said it needs to be rotated slightly to cut it right the first time.


If you are going to use an MKIII master cylinder, the only way to get it to sit upright and fit in that small area is to cut the area in red. It also makes it easier to manuever in and out. The SC3 master cylinder is much taller and curved for this small area, the MKIII is not. If you try and fit it down in there and use the stock pattern, it will not fit because the resivoir will hit the brake booster. This is why I had to lengthen the studs.

Hope that helps
Jon

ranger2339

Sorry to bring this up but I just want to confirm.

So I can use the MKIII pedalls with the SC300 master cyl and the clutch pedall will sit in there just fine? Not cutting?

Thanks
Josh

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Josh,

I don't believe so. The SC300 master cylinder would fit the firewall perfectly, but I believe it would slant the pedal assymbley too far to the left. Remember that the pedal has to fit the slant of the studs on the master cylinder, and vice versa. Think of it this way, if you used the SC3 pedals and the MKIII master cylinder, it would slant the master cylinder at a funny angle, get the idea? I could be wrong and you might be able to make it work. I keep trying to reinforce using all SC3 parts, it would really take alot of the hassle out of it. Hope that helps. If you end up mixing the pedals and SC3 master cylinder and get it to work post it up on here for confirmation so others will know.

Jon

heyitzalan

how much is the custom driveshaft going to cost you? i think i need one. i can't find a driveshaft shop around my area, i'm in the business new york city. lol

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Hey all finally got the speedo fixed.

Here is the solution to the speedometer sensor when doing an R154 swap in your SC. So let me clear up some things first.

If you have had the W58 in before, it works but you have to fab a bracket to make it work. I believe it also works for those that had the auto SC3, but you still have to fab a bracket. However if you have a GTE auto or an SC4 trans,(virtually the same) the speed sensor will not work.

There was no electronic speed sensor out of an R154 trans, they were all cable. There was a rear speed sensor, but this is not the ones we are concerned about and it has nothing to do with the speedometer. Just so you can distinguish them the rear speed sensor is on the rear driver side of the R154 and has a harness coming out of it. You can remove this sensor and plug it, as it is not needed now for anything. I just used one of these from O'Reillys Auto Parts:


Here are the part numbers for everything:
Toyota:
33485-30020- speedometer plate
33404-22010-sub assymbley sleeve
33403-29115-gear

Marlin Crawler:
Marlin Crawler VSS, make sure you get the one for gear drive case.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...e/tcase_ac.htm

Total it cost me about $130 I think w/ shipping and all. Anyway here is how you assymble it. It's really straighforward, h ere's everything seperate:


The gear installed in the sub assymbley sleeve, make sure you use the funky c clip they send you and the O-ring


Everything assymbled ready to drop in, the VSS just screws onto the out case of the sub assymbley.


Installed in the car.


Works like a charm, apparently 3rd gear is the real monster

Jon

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

Blizzy (Mark) also used a Marlin Crawler VSS part on his 154 swap a few weeks ago, he said it worked perfectly. Hope you didnt spend o much time researching this, Mark could have helped you out. Good info to have! Great job on the build!

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Scott. I had always known about the VSS but I kept searching for that OEM replacment for my situation, every which way I turned I just couldn't seem to find something that would bolt up perfectly with no bracket and use the same 3 pin sensor. I finally went with the VSS and I really like it because it utilizes the stock sensor and components, and seals perfectly.

madmax98

So, those of us who have auto SC300 can use the stock sensor with a bracket? No need for extra parts? Tnx for all your help bro, you're a trooper..

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

do you need a 5spd ecu for this to work or can you keep your auto ecu?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

HI ALL!!! I'm back from my "vacation", mods love me on this forum. Anyway, to answer questions:

madmax: Yes you can use the stock sensor, just need to make some kind of bracket to hold it in place.

97-SC300: Yes you can use your auto ecu, it works fine. However, I think that it would be best if you could get your hands on a manual ecu. I think that the auto ecu, even though now unhooked, still tries to retard timing when at high RPM's for shifts. Sometimes on the highway, I get a really weird "jerking", the only pattern that I can come up with is that it happens in the exact situation where the the RPMs are so low that the ecu is trying downshift the auto. Also, when I'm romping on it, I know it should feel stronger in the upper RPM range. It just feels weak almost, like timing is being pulled like crazy cuz the car is trying to shift to the next gear. Could be wrong, but if you can find one, I would do it.

Good luck fellas!

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

its only like $79 not $130 oe did you have to get another part?

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

well.... you have to get the toyota parts too so..... read much?

LexusFTW

iTrader: (7)

Nice to have you back! I was wondering who was going to answer all these questions.