DIY: How to relocate the wiring harness your tire had for lunch v. LOL
05-12-09, 11:39 AM
#46
I have the Gixxer_Drew Bilstein-hypercoil setup and I tried to go into the lowest possible setting for a day and it did not rub at all. I would scrape the bottom of the car going over speed bumps and all but when I went in to readjust my settings the fender lining was not touched at all. The lowest setting on this setup makes you sit on the bumpstop (very stiff ride) but at least it protects you from rubbing into the fender liner. Now I have it adjusted so that I have an inch of travel and a more comfy daily rider. A bit unrelated but just an fyi.
07-03-09, 06:22 PM
#49
Pole Position
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Anyone have any tips on removing the big white module? Its the one with wiring running from both sides and its being held up by a small black bracket.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
07-06-09, 02:14 PM
#50
I did this yesterday and it was pretty simple. Hard part was removing the white wire harness from the kick panel. I had to use a adjustable mirror and a curved tool to unclip the harness. Only wires I had to chop and butt connected together were the 5 wires for the windsheild wiper assembly, I couldnt unclip it. Other than that everything went smoooth
07-11-09, 08:02 AM
#51
Here's a walkthrough of the reroute process. I did mine this morning in about 2 hours.
The plug ends of the harness are located in the driverside foot well.
There are 4 plugs in total under here that need to be removed.
The largest one has a black flip lever connector. Fold the black lever down and the connector pops out.
The plug ends of the harness are located in the driverside foot well.
There are 4 plugs in total under here that need to be removed.
The largest one has a black flip lever connector. Fold the black lever down and the connector pops out.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 07-11-09 at 08:27 AM.
07-11-09, 08:10 AM
#52
Next remove the fender liner using 10mm or phillips head.
Find the bung and grommet and remove the two 10mm bolts holding it in to the firewall.
Then remove the wiper harness. You'll have to cut and splice these 5 wires. Remove the tape holding the harness to the grommet and pull it through.
Find the bung and grommet and remove the two 10mm bolts holding it in to the firewall.
Then remove the wiper harness. You'll have to cut and splice these 5 wires. Remove the tape holding the harness to the grommet and pull it through.
07-11-09, 08:26 AM
#53
Next you'll have to reroute the harness through the front hole in the apron to get the harness under the hood. Remove the ground with a 10mm temporarily to ease the process. Helps to remove the battery and the washer tank too.
Run the airbag and hood cable above the pinch weld on the skirt/inner fender area so they'll be safe.
Route the wires in wire loom across the strut tower and back through the rear hole in the apron where the wiper harness went through.
Fish the wiper harness wires comming from the kickpanel area back through the grommet and solder and heat shrink the connections.
Tape it all up and you're almost done.
Reinstall the bung and grommet.
Plug the 4 connectors back into the kickpanel area.
Reinstall the fender liner and the jobs done.
Run the airbag and hood cable above the pinch weld on the skirt/inner fender area so they'll be safe.
Route the wires in wire loom across the strut tower and back through the rear hole in the apron where the wiper harness went through.
Fish the wiper harness wires comming from the kickpanel area back through the grommet and solder and heat shrink the connections.
Tape it all up and you're almost done.
Reinstall the bung and grommet.
Plug the 4 connectors back into the kickpanel area.
Reinstall the fender liner and the jobs done.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 07-11-09 at 02:51 PM.
07-14-09, 02:35 PM
#58
Lead Lap
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You know you guys are not supposed to rub. That kinda signals an issue. If the suspension is properly set up, your bump stops or limiters would protect the fender well from damage. Yeah the wiring getting chewed is an issue, but improper suspension setup is the real issue. It ain't supposed to rub, and there are others plenty lower than most that do not rub due to them setting it up correctly and not just throwing springs or coilovers on there and dropping the car. This fix in this thread is a tedious wiring job that takes hours and causes you to have to cut a factory harness. For about the same amount of time you can come up with a good design for limiting your suspension.
07-15-09, 08:33 AM
#60
lol. Link or it didn't happen. 
Quick question for ya...
I've got TT brakes on all 4 corners of the sc. It's stops good, even with the 1 1/16" MC. Can I use the tt master (which is 1") with my brake booster or do I need the tt booster too? Is the TT booster different?
Did you ever find out the caliper bore dia's on the tt brakes? I'll have mine off soon if you need numbers I'll get em.
btw the NA supra uses a 1" bore MC and the same stock brakes as the SC. What gives?
Quick question for ya...
I've got TT brakes on all 4 corners of the sc. It's stops good, even with the 1 1/16" MC. Can I use the tt master (which is 1") with my brake booster or do I need the tt booster too? Is the TT booster different?
Did you ever find out the caliper bore dia's on the tt brakes? I'll have mine off soon if you need numbers I'll get em.
btw the NA supra uses a 1" bore MC and the same stock brakes as the SC. What gives?
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 07-15-09 at 08:47 AM.