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Please help!!! car stalling everywhere

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Old 10-01-07, 06:22 AM
  #31  
WICKED SC4
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Originally Posted by SCFrogger
yeah Gunnar, thanks for the help, knew it was just a matter of knowing how to clean the thing. works well now, ditched my over oiled K&N for a more free flowing cone filter with minimal oil. glad the maf has decided to cooperate.

now i can move on to my passenger door handle which doesnt open from inside anymore.

wickedsc, i think you need to try another shop and/or go back to lexus and tell them they need to fix what they obviously messed up. if you have the time grab a fluke and start testing whatever you can. i could be wrong but i think its pretty hard to damage your whole harness. i would still check the maf out if i were you, if they say its bad then you cant really loose anything trying to clean it.

good luck
It is at another shop right now. Now it is at the shop that "would" have done the work if the car didn't die on a sunday- Lexus was the only shop open to tow the car at the time otherwise I would have towed it to my regular good friend's shop.

Update: The shop has checked the fuel and it is fine. The harness is fine. The Sensors appear to be fine. The ignition system is fine. The car actually runs perfect until about 4K then it kills. just dont give it more than 60% throttle. Weird. Maybe a knock sensor on it's way out. They suggested that or ECU.

They are going to use a scanner tool today to log all the electrical crap going on in the car, and drive it till the problem happens, then go into the log and freeze frame during the problem and trace it back to the source. That should do it! I pray to have a fixed running car today or tommorrow! This anomaly is annoying and sounds common on SC's. My friends SC300 had the
same symptoms mine did. I'll keep you guys updated.
Old 10-01-07, 11:19 PM
  #32  
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I cleaned mine and now it revs fine but it wont idle and the check engine light comes on when I am not on the throttle it. the trac light comes on to mabye I **** up the ecu or something. I also can not find the foil or the mirror in teh MAF sensor part I did find the mirror on the top tho.

Last edited by VW_Vanagon; 10-01-07 at 11:44 PM.
Old 10-09-07, 11:56 AM
  #33  
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I bought a MAF new for a LS400. Although it clips in to the same plug, the LS400 MAF itself is bigger a little bit than the SC400 MAF. (Good thing!) I hope to have good update soon, The only problem is I cannot find a ICV for the SC400 at all for under $500+ I can find a complete motor for that much- why the heck do these parts cost so freaking much?!? They are impossible to find and expensive.. annoying cost of ownership.

This car is freaking 14 years old they shoud have enough parts for these cars...

Does anyone have a 92 SC400 ICV part # 25620-50010 ? Can anyone find one for under $150?
Old 10-09-07, 01:43 PM
  #34  
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VW, that means its not perfectly clean or its not perfectly dry. try again
you can also try using some other kind of cleaner as i dont think electrical parts cleaner is the best for this application, but I did use it and it did work for me, on about my third try or so. you have to let it air dry at least overnight. a fan can help the process

Wicked_sc4, i think the ls400 maf should work for an sc400 pretty well, if not perfectly. in my experiance you dont really replace your ICV, you just take the stupid thing apart and clean it or you can do what alot of people do (myself included) is let the car idle and shoot carb cleaner into the intake right in front of the throttle body (you can use that one tube that goes to the valvecover, just pop it off and spray into throttle body from there)
OF COURSE, I would recommend taking it apart and cleaning if you are certain there is a problem as really bad buildup could get drawn into your engine and cause other bad stuff.
i dont think these units ever go bad, they just get clogged, and even if it does go bad, its just the electronic adjustment part that tweaks the magnetic part, and the magnetic part will always continue to work giving you basic functionality. hope any of that helps. If it is indeed doomed i would go to a junkyard.
Old 10-10-07, 06:27 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SCFrogger
VW, that means its not perfectly clean or its not perfectly dry. try again
you can also try using some other kind of cleaner as i dont think electrical parts cleaner is the best for this application, but I did use it and it did work for me, on about my third try or so. you have to let it air dry at least overnight. a fan can help the process

Wicked_sc4, i think the ls400 maf should work for an sc400 pretty well, if not perfectly. in my experiance you dont really replace your ICV, you just take the stupid thing apart and clean it or you can do what alot of people do (myself included) is let the car idle and shoot carb cleaner into the intake right in front of the throttle body (you can use that one tube that goes to the valvecover, just pop it off and spray into throttle body from there)
OF COURSE, I would recommend taking it apart and cleaning if you are certain there is a problem as really bad buildup could get drawn into your engine and cause other bad stuff.
i dont think these units ever go bad, they just get clogged, and even if it does go bad, its just the electronic adjustment part that tweaks the magnetic part, and the magnetic part will always continue to work giving you basic functionality. hope any of that helps. If it is indeed doomed i would go to a junkyard.


VW, I found a can of MAF sensor cleaner in Meyers auto parts... It was designed to dry fast leave no residue and safe on plastics. I think it was $8.

Frogger, Thanks for the reply. I thought that ICV idea was a good idea, so I went down to the shop and worked on my car yesterday, I did that with some satisfaction. It had caked on soot a quarter inch thick on the dome piece thing, the bearings were still good but a little slow. Took it to a parts washer and after some carb cleaner and wd40 it was new and shiny and free spinning again. I put it back in.

The LS 400 MAF sensor is exactly the same size as the SC. The only difference is the bolt pattern bolting up to the airbox. so I just swiched the SC casing with the sensor from the LS and put on my Injen intake. Looks nice.

It's bad I have to work on my own car in the shop, I would have done the rest but I didn't know how to do the rest. It's all good, they are going to do my car all day today, so I should get to the bottom of this problem today.

I miss my car...
Old 10-10-07, 07:45 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by WICKED SC4
VW, I found a can of MAF sensor cleaner in Meyers auto parts... It was designed to dry fast leave no residue and safe on plastics. I think it was $8.

Frogger, Thanks for the reply. I thought that ICV idea was a good idea, so I went down to the shop and worked on my car yesterday, I did that with some satisfaction. It had caked on soot a quarter inch thick on the dome piece thing, the bearings were still good but a little slow. Took it to a parts washer and after some carb cleaner and wd40 it was new and shiny and free spinning again. I put it back in.

The LS 400 MAF sensor is exactly the same size as the SC. The only difference is the bolt pattern bolting up to the airbox. so I just swiched the SC casing with the sensor from the LS and put on my Injen intake. Looks nice.

It's bad I have to work on my own car in the shop, I would have done the rest but I didn't know how to do the rest. It's all good, they are going to do my car all day today, so I should get to the bottom of this problem today.

I miss my car...
very nice, good luck and let me know how it goes.
Old 10-11-07, 06:44 AM
  #37  
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Got my car back yesterday. Although the car actually runs smoother now than it did when I got it, it still misfires and kills the engine @ more than 50% throttle. ? No change.

The new transmission mount is soooooooo smoooooooth. Feels like a Lexus again. Car is 30-40% quieter?!?! Maybe the intake did that. I cannot hear or feel the car start anymore from the inside windows rolled up. The car starts now in one turn of the starter. Crazy fast. I had the shop tighten the screw on the tranny to increase the pressure on shifts. It feels 100% better. Car feels brand new when driving it other than the misfire at 4K rpm. Impressive.

My buddy who has a custom auto shop (sicssor doors ect) he has my exact car, he said his had my exact problem and no shop could diagnose. I don't know what it is about the fuel system on this car, no one will change the F@#$ fuel filter. It is the first thing I bought and two shops now will not touch it. The want to replace my whole fuel line!?! I know it is O.E. fuel filter on a 92 that thing probably has all kinds of things in it and I cannot change it, it is on too tight. My buddy said he got the big bottle of Lucas oil fuel system cleaner (treats three full tankfulls) and dumped all in on a half a tank and it cleared right up and never happened again. I might try that today. I still need to find someone who can change this stupid filter.

Maybe all these misfires and poor running condition SC's are all just clogged inj and filters.

I don't like the new fuel pump, It says walboro on the side, I don't like walboro's- they are really loud and unreliable. (from experience from Supra- had 3 of them fail) Maybe I can find a Supra Fuel pump instead of this one. The fuel pump is the only thing I can hear inside the car now when the car is running. It's not loud loud, just loud enough for me to notice it and get irritated. Want to put a Supra stock one in.

The Injen intake sounds insane. People look at the car like WTF? Big smile on my face. Even with stock exhuast when I get on it. Man I can't wait to get the header and exhaust and Torque Converter from edge racing. They said their converter wont lag on the top end like the dragon precision. It will still pick up like that one on the launch. I am beginning to really like my car. The intake is cool, quieter than stock when not on it and really loud race V8 sound when on it.

If this thing is TTV8 6speed, man oh man this thing will be baaaaaaaaadddd.
Old 10-11-07, 01:56 PM
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i had to change out the fuel filter on my 240sx. no idea where it is on the sc. will let you know if i find it. sux about the throttle problem. if i think of anything i will let you know. you should probably be able to spot the fuel filter if you look hard enough. i dont think its hard to change yourself. follow the line back if you can. sometimes they like to stick those things in the corners of the bay or right up close to the fender. sometimes its right in front of your eyes.

let me know how the torque converter goes, i was thinking of doing that myself instead of dropping alot for the 5spd.
Old 10-11-07, 02:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SCFrogger
i had to change out the fuel filter on my 240sx. no idea where it is on the sc. will let you know if i find it. sux about the throttle problem. if i think of anything i will let you know. you should probably be able to spot the fuel filter if you look hard enough. i dont think its hard to change yourself. follow the line back if you can. sometimes they like to stick those things in the corners of the bay or right up close to the fender. sometimes its right in front of your eyes.

let me know how the torque converter goes, i was thinking of doing that myself instead of dropping alot for the 5spd.
There are kits for like $1200 for the R154 conversion. (5speed) I know of two kits.

http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/shop/pr...+&andor=Phrase

http://www.rushimports.com.au/index....=index&cPath=1

Anyway, Fuel filter is under the driver side passenger seat in the back under the car. by the left rear tire.

Talked to my bud with the same car he had the same problem awhile back and he couuldn't diagnose the problem either. Last effort, he used LUCAS OIL fuel injector lubricator and cleaner, the 100 gallon treatment, and dumped the whole thing in 1/2 tank. By the end of the tank the problem went away and never came back. That is a mighty good product if it can do that.

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...tid=2&loc=show

So I gave it a shot, I went and purschased some from checker for $10. bought some redline too. Dumped both in w/ half a tank of gas. I didn't even drive but 5 miles during lunch, and the miss and stalling at lights is completly gone whatsoever. It purrs baby's butt smooth. No miss even at part throttle, it still hiccups at WOT now but the pep get up and go is back 80% from 10% THIS IS ONLY 5 MILES. I cant wait to get the actual filter changed today and put another dose of this awesome product in a full tank to get 100% back. The car will be running better than when I bought it by the end of the next tank of gas!!!! Sweet cookies, I am a Lucas Oil customer for life now!

Thanks guys for all the suggestions you guys are all great. My car is good for another 200K miles with all the parts I replaced and the way I take car of my car.

Heck this is the only car that I have ever heard of doing this: When I bought the car, the compression after 120,000 miles was EXACTLY 190 in every single cylinder not even off by one psi. What kind of manufacturer can builid a V8 that runs this smooth let alone with 120K miles and have perfect compression in every single cylinder in a 14 year old motor? I have never heard of that before or since. I don't care I am a Lexus fan for life too. That is awesome problems nontheless. Toyota spent today's equivalent of 500million dollars developing this V8. It just showed right there. Perfect 10.

Go LF-A! Show the world what performance is!

Thanks again everyone. Good luck with your cars.

Last edited by WICKED SC4; 10-11-07 at 02:38 PM.
Old 10-12-07, 06:09 AM
  #40  
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Car still hasn't completely cleared up, but I noticed rich black soot coming out of the exhaust that never was there. It is working well. I pray that after I change the filter that is it.
Old 10-12-07, 12:34 PM
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ive used something pretty much like that before on my 240 with like 200k on it.

change out your filter and run it for a while. i wouldn't put that stuff in there again right away, definately not on the same tank of gas.
it can have some bad effects if you do it too much i hear. especially for your injectors and o-rings due to it raising your combustion temperature.
good to hear that you've narrowed it down though.

i bet you your fuel filter is full of sludge.
Old 10-18-07, 11:27 AM
  #42  
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Word to the wise- don't cheap out on the spark plug wires.
I bought a brand new set of premium quality spark plug wire set from a auto parts store, and when I put a screwdriver near the coil, a spark darn near killed me! I held the screwdriver there beside the coil and the sparks were jumping from the coil to the screwdriver and bouncing off to the head in a continuous spark! That is with them installed tightly! It was coming THROUGH the insulation.

I will never buy new plug wires other than from the dealer from now on. $230! ouch.

Changed the fuel filter, it was pretty clean actually. Suprising. Probably the fuel system cleaner took credit for that one.

UPDATE: Three shops later car still has not cleared up completely. It runs, but not very well.

For the fourth time, the car goes in the shop today, They are going to hook up a scanner tool that when you take it for a drive with it plugged in, it measures every single sensor and voltages, and can "freeze frame" when the problem occurs. This is where you take a book of factory specs and compare each and every sensor and see which one is out of spec causing the problem. I "SHOULD" know today what is wrong with the car. Lots of prayers going on here. I sure hope it is just wires, I have replaced everything else.

Side note, I am meeting with the GM of Lexus of Las Vegas this friday. We'll see how that one goes.
Old 10-21-07, 12:03 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by WICKED SC4
Word to the wise- don't cheap out on the spark plug wires.
I bought a brand new set of premium quality spark plug wire set from a auto parts store, and when I put a screwdriver near the coil, a spark darn near killed me! I held the screwdriver there beside the coil and the sparks were jumping from the coil to the screwdriver and bouncing off to the head in a continuous spark! That is with them installed tightly! It was coming THROUGH the insulation.

I will never buy new plug wires other than from the dealer from now on. $230! ouch.

Changed the fuel filter, it was pretty clean actually. Suprising. Probably the fuel system cleaner took credit for that one.

UPDATE: Three shops later car still has not cleared up completely. It runs, but not very well.

For the fourth time, the car goes in the shop today, They are going to hook up a scanner tool that when you take it for a drive with it plugged in, it measures every single sensor and voltages, and can "freeze frame" when the problem occurs. This is where you take a book of factory specs and compare each and every sensor and see which one is out of spec causing the problem. I "SHOULD" know today what is wrong with the car. Lots of prayers going on here. I sure hope it is just wires, I have replaced everything else.

Side note, I am meeting with the GM of Lexus of Las Vegas this friday. We'll see how that one goes.
yeah man, stock wires are usually the best way to go. lucky that you didnt get sparked yourself. good luck with the scanner man, and i dunno if you have done it yet, but inspect all your grounds and stuff in the engine bay. sometimes they can cause unexplainable problems. also where the major fuses are under the hood, see if there are any relays making a wierd sound (those boxy type things next to the fuses), you will know it when you hear it.
sometimes they get old or bad and will not switch properly under certain loads. if you hear one buzzing = no bueno

Last edited by SCFrogger; 10-22-07 at 07:34 AM.
Old 10-21-07, 12:15 PM
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much better
Old 10-21-07, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Ali SC3
much better

screen names are too close, request a new one asap.


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