over40driv

I called a vender of ground wire kits that are speacially made for our cars, and they informed that it would be at least 2 weeks to ship, for $100.00. I am ready to do the upgrade now to see if it will clear up my low throttle position miss. I was hoping someone with a digital camera could take a pic. of the engine bay and circle the location of the engine grounds other than the ground cable.

DasBach

iTrader: (7)

I can do that for you, mine is an SC300 though, still want it?

over40driv

I dont know if the sc300 has the same ground set-up. Thanks anyway.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

just ground the damn thing - how hard is it...

intake manifold is the most important, block second...

t0p_sh0tta

Why not just drop $20-30 on some 4ga wire and ring terminals??? Knukonceptz.com has great prices.

DasBach

iTrader: (7)

Pretty much. On the 300 the most import grounds were on the intake manifold 2) and the block. I grounded the intake manifold, HKS Ignition, block, and the body.

over40driv

Just wanted to know the grounding points before I get started, so I dont miss one.

neurocity

iTrader: (17)

These pics wont help, But I will get the SC400 (-) points up here soon.

These are for the SC300.

CLRH2O

I'm looking for those SC 400 points as well. Please (pretty please) post those up - TIA!

over40driv

I was just under the hood looking around to see how easy replacing the ground cables were going to be on my 400, not as easy as I hoped. Ill need to raise it up and take off the bottom plastic engine cover to get the main ground cable at the block. There is a lot of misc. hoses and pipes to follow the firewall cable to see where its going. There is a weird black 90 degree bracket on the firewall that the top of the rear ground attaches to, would wonder if anyone sees that bracket as a bad connector. I will get deeper into it as soon as temps in the garage drop below 100 degrees.

over40driv

That black, 90 degree bracket on the firewall was totally covered in paint, so I removed it and sanded the body around the threads, looks like it was made that way. It goes to the intake which we know is important but the attaching point is hidden by the huge heater hoses.

CLRH2O

I know that one grounding point (the most immediate one) from the negative terminal on the bottom of the engine bay is located on the back bottom edge of the AC Compressor. It's accessible just behind and above the oil filter (SC 400) without removing the plastic under engine shield.

I found that mine was actually totally loose - to the point of the bolt almost having fallen off on it's own. I had hoped that cleaning, brushing and tightening that bolt to it's most secure extent would have solved my grounding issue..... but it has not.

It's improved it no doubt... but not completely eliminated my random non-start problem.

Nerocity - brother, PLEASE! Can you get those images of the SC 400 grounding points online here in the forums mate?

neurocity

iTrader: (17)

Yes...I need to scan them...Pretty much all your doing in running new larger ground wires from the factory ground points around the engine to the Negative terminal.

over40driv

CLRH20, you must be some kind of dang gone Houdinni, I could touch the end of my ground cable at the block and it feels tight. To inspect and clean it, I will put my set of ramps to use and have to get it from the bottom. Thanks for the input. That bracket on the top of the firewall is deff. a throughaway though. That ground wire should go directly to the body.

over40driv

Well when I got underneath the car, my ground cable from the battery was very tight, however there is a double 90 bracket that is on the same oil filter housing stud the ground cable attaches to, and also goes to the a.c. comp. It is black anodized and between the cable end and the stud. It would be easiest to check and clean this connection when changing the oil filter. I am going to go ahead and replace my ground cable while im their as well as clean the ends of the bracket that goes on with it.