Bean

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the blower here isnt going to be big enough to even think about pushing 500whp worth of air.

Maybe with a single 63mm+ turbo or a twin T28 setup

HTQCummins

but finding the room for the twin or even single turbo may prove very difficult.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Blizzy,

Do you mind if I ask where you got that supercharger bracket from. Thanks.

Have been looking at this one from Lextreme..
http://www.lextreme.com/supercharger-bracket.html

I myself will one day supercharge my 400, when time and money allow, still looking at different options for now.

Thanks

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

I got my mounting bracket from Rob Welsh, the designer of a number of Centrifugal supercharger kits for the 2UZ (4.7L truck engine). The mount is actually for the 2UZ, and I do not expect it to work without modest modification. However, it does fit the Powerdyne supercharger which I prefer for its cost, flexibility in orientation, ease of use, and quiet operation. The Powerdyne is completely belt driven: no whine of the gears and no tapping of oil lines is necessary.

MJHSC400

Centrifugal supercharger w/ 100 shot = All you need--

This is really starting to look like the best way to go for ease of install and reliability vs. serviceability issues---

The turbo setups just don't look like too much fun to mess with compared to these self contained setups--

A good progressive nitrous setup on top of this should do better than 500whp anyhow-- And an R154 would handle it all just fine--

That's my vote--

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Greater than 500whp? I'd like to see it I doubt it will happen with a stock CR motor

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Blizzy,

Do you have a link for bracket info?

I tried to google rob welsh + supercharger, but only came up with old forum posts with dead links.

Where does this bracket install on the engine?

I have done many Tundra/Sequoia t-belts, maybe four LS400s and one SC400(my car). I am relatively sure that the drive belt setup is the same, and that all the accessories are in the same positions. On SC’s, it’s a little different with the hydraulic fan system, but there is a dummy/idler pulley in the same place the fan would be.

I’d be more worried about interference with the heads/valve covers. Don’t the 1uz covers stick out more? The 2uz uses a coil on plug ignition and there is less protrusion because there is no cap/rotor setup on the cam.

Then again, the newer 2uz’s with I-Force, aka VVTI stick out pretty far. ???

Please keep posting your progress, I am very interested.

Thanks

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

amen.

I intend to push no harder than 10-12psi...which should be ~400whp.

Certainly 12psi and a big hit of nitrous could get me in the vicinity of 500whp, but I would assume my engine life expectancy to go into the crapper with such a set up. I would prefer to maintain some semblance of reliability.

I am looking for a simple, cost-effective FI solution for the V8. Blowing the top off the engine with nitrous may be simple and cheap -relatively speaking- but it would not be cost-effective. I hope that made sense.

havok123

Cant wait to see this thing done. I myself want to do something like this when time and money allow me too. But my i ask what will you be running for injectors? stock or aftermarket?

Keep up the good work

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

stock 1UZ injectors can handle a few pounds of boost as witnessed by Scott running rich at the redline in his supercharged SC.

7M injectors are a good Toyota-to-Toyota upgrade. The n/a injectors are plug and play 315cc/min and should offer me all of the fuel I will need for 10psi. The turbo injectors require a resistor pack, but they offer enormous capacity at 440cc/min.

KC95, I will shoot you a PM in the morning with contact info for Rob.

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

Long time, no post:

Last Thursday, I completed a hellish summer of graduate classes. I am trying to get my masters in math within two calendar years while teaching high school full time, so summers are crucial. Getting done with my summer of hell was a big piece of the puzzle to being able to make progress on the car.

Gazi hooked me up with an SC300 diff. I used a rotary wire brush drill bit to get rid of most of the surface oxidation on the pumpkin. I am liking the result. The LSD which has been sitting on a shelf for a few weeks now finally has a home.

Shot of the diff post cleaning:


Monday, I picked up some Lucas Heavy Duty Gear Oil, some thread locker, and some high temp silicone gasket for the surgery. I have a greasy mess on my hands this week(end), but the result should be well worth the trouble.

LSD surgery peripherals:


This past weekend, I also had the chance to install the Supra TT Rear brakes. Brake bias is back. The car is virtually impossible to break traction with while coming to a spine-shattering stop. With only the LS400 fronts, the car was rather willing to skid out as the bias was out of whack. I strongly suggest the 2 pot rears for anyone with the 4 pot fronts that is serious about their braking.

TT Rears:


After much deliberating, I will be supercharging before the five speed swap. This means battery relocation, header-back exhaust, Powerdyne headunit, intercooler, bypass valve, etc. are at the top of my shopping list rather than an SC300 clutch cylinder, pedal assembly, and Soarer/Chaser R154.

I should be putting down some nice power in a few months time.

SC400TT

iTrader: (4)

Blizzy:

Great project I am looking forward to seeing your progress and results. I am sure you know these things, but a few suggestions for you as you move forward:

• Do a leak down test and be sure that you are not experiencing blowby from old engine or many miles of use, your rings are probably well worn...
• For sure, change out the head gaskets and consider ARP headstuds for the 1UZ...the old, stock organic head gaskets will probably not handle the boost...I ran only 9 lbs. of boost on my stock setup, and lifted the drivers side head, and blew the gasket...Imperative to replace with MLS head gaskets, you can either get them from Lexus, or from Cometic. Lextreme has both the Cometic head gaskets and the ARP head studs. You cannot get them from ARP, as they do not have them as a set for the SC. Lextreme did all the measurements and came out with a set that is a spot on fit. I just put them on my car. MVP may have them as well, I am not sure...
• Glad to see you are considering changing out the stock injectors...They can't handle the boost at 10 lbs...Even with an external FPR, you will not be able to adjust for the different fuel requirements needed...You will probably be exceptionally rich at idle, and lean at WOT.
• I assume you will be adding a FMU or a SAFC to handle the extra fuel adjustments needed to keep you from running lean as well?

Just trying to add a few suggestions from my own experience.... Again, I am sure you already considered all of these things, but thought I would add just in case...Plus, good info for others that may be considering to follow in your footsteps so that they could learn...

Ryan

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

This will definitely happen. I am confident that my engine is very healthy as the car was babied by the previous owner to the tune of 58k summer, lady-driven miles over 11 years. Nevertheless, this will definitely happen.

This upgrade is definitely in the queue. When I go in for a headgasket, I will absoltely use ARP headstuds. There will be no reason to do otherwise.

My initial build will be 6psi. Injectors will be installed before dialing up the boost.

Absolutely.

The assistance of anyone and everyone is appreciated.

SC400TT

iTrader: (4)

Like I said, I figured you had it handled...

Ryan

Blizzy

iTrader: (-1)

Just a general update on a few things supercharger:

- My mounting bracket from the 2UZ is likely not to work. The snail portion of the s/c sits on the cabin side of the mount that I currently have. Our engine bay does not accomodate this.

Solution: Powerdyne themselves makes a mounting bracket that allows the snail side forward. Rather then bolting it to the block (impossible since the mount is for a chevy), I will mount it to the bottom plate of the 2UZ bracket I have already.

- Superchargerrebuilds.com sells rebuilt Powerdyne superchargers for $1050. This is just the headunit, but the headunit will be sporting a Kevlar internal belt and ceramic bearings. The Kevlar internal belt prevents slippage, and the cermic bearings allow for more compressor rpm's and more boost.

Comment: I intend to swap out a billet compressor wheel and shaft offered exclusively from 928 Motorsports. Their compressor wheel builds more boost along the entire RPM range. This will be my vehicle to get from 6- to 8-psi.

- I am beginning to favor the automatic transmission for my initial build. This means I will probably be throwing in a Dragon TC in the meantime until I disable my SC as a DD. Then, the R154 makes perfect sense.

Why would I say this: I have consulted a number of trusted friends and family members. The prevaling opinion is that my friends who drive a manual -in large part- would prefer to drive an auto for daily commuting; but, they are only able to have one car so they drive the manual since they can't imagine not having one. Those who have multiple cars almost always drive an auto daily and a stick on their secondary car.


----------------
The fact is: I have a few other goals for myself that involve things other than my SC.

First, I am going to graduate school so that I can teach university classes as an adjunct. This is going to occupy enough of my time to where I don't see myself shopping for another daily until this is done. When I am done and teaching, both money and time should no longer be issues.

Second, I will be buying a house this winter. This will lock up a lot of my time this fall. It will also take a massive chunk of my savings so that I pay "the man" as little as possible. Though, once I am in the house, things can really start taking off.

Third, I have wanted to throw together a JZ Cressida project for a while now. The money I save on a T/C instead of an R154 (~$3k) will allow me to get a rolling chassis and a JZ engine/tranny.


---------------
Long story short: this initial build will be 6-8psi on a piggyback using the stock transmission with a T/C. When I finish grad school and disable my SC as a daily, I will perform the R154 swap and dial up the boost to 12-psi on a standalone.