SC400 engine mount replacement
03-26-07, 05:18 PM
#1
SC400 engine mount replacement
Questions for the guys that DIY SC400 engine mounts:
1. What components did you remove, if any, in order to get the old mounts out and the new ones ine?
2. How did you get to the nut on top, from the bottom?
3. Any other tips or tricks you could share?
Thanks in advance.
1. What components did you remove, if any, in order to get the old mounts out and the new ones ine?
2. How did you get to the nut on top, from the bottom?
3. Any other tips or tricks you could share?
Thanks in advance.
03-31-07, 10:18 PM
#3
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engine mount replacement
I just replaced mine a couple of weeks ago and found it pretty simple. I did use a car lift which made the process a lot easier, however I think you can do it with the car on jack stands.
1. Jack up front of car and get as much clearance as possible.
2. Make sure emergency brake is engaged and back wheel chocked.
3. Remove both front tires so that you can get underneath to begin work.
4. The bottom bolt is a 19mm if I remember correctly and the top nut is a
17mm. The key is to get a boxed in 17mm wrench and bend it about 5 inches from to boxed end to about a 45 degree angle and this will work perfect to get to the top nut.
5. Here is where I did things a little different from others. I used another jack up under the car just as everyone else but I placed the 1 foot piece of 2x4 vertically on the jack and the other end on the side of the oil pan that I was working on. Make sure to place the board on the part of the oil pan where the bolts mount the oil pan to the engine.
6. Jack up the engine only enough to get the weight of the engine off the mount.
7. This is a different step that I used as well. There are four (4) bolts that hold the top engine mount bracket to the engine. I used a 3' extension with a swivel socket and I was able to remove the bolt by finding an access opening just in front and behind of the rotor. Once you look for the the 4 bolt you will be able to see them without a problem. Remove these 4 bolt and the bracket can easily be moved to remove the mount. On the drivers side use the access hole between the upper control arm.
8. By removing the top engine mount bracket you will not have to jack up the engine on the car so high that it will damage the power steering hoses.
9. Make sure that you lossen the upper engine mount nut before removing the mounting bracket or you will find it difficult to lossen it after the bracket bolts are removed. The bent box wrench makes the top bolt alot easier than any other method.
10. By doing it this way you will be able to place the heat sheild back on top of the mount easily. Also start the top nut after you have placed the bracket on the top of the mount. Next just work to turn and align the mounting bracket with the 4 bolt holes and start installing bolts. Again make sure to use thread lock on the bolts. The mounts have notches raise to fit into the upper and lower bracket and so correct placement is easy. Once these bolts are in, you can tighten up the top and bottom engine mount. You may have to either jack the engine slightly to get the four bolts on the bracket to line-up, but not a big deal.
11. Remember I used a car lift and it made the process easier. I could probably replace them on my other sc400 in less than 2 hours since I found this to be the easiest method.
12. Once you get started it's pretty straight forward. The key to making this easier is removing the top engine mount bracket.
13. Once you finish each side touque bolts back to specification.
14. Remember to use threadloc on the mounting bracket bolts.
Hope this helps and it was alot easier than I thought. By removing the upper mounting bracket you can quickly remove the mount without stress on the engine oil pan and power steering hoses.
1. Jack up front of car and get as much clearance as possible.
2. Make sure emergency brake is engaged and back wheel chocked.
3. Remove both front tires so that you can get underneath to begin work.
4. The bottom bolt is a 19mm if I remember correctly and the top nut is a
17mm. The key is to get a boxed in 17mm wrench and bend it about 5 inches from to boxed end to about a 45 degree angle and this will work perfect to get to the top nut.
5. Here is where I did things a little different from others. I used another jack up under the car just as everyone else but I placed the 1 foot piece of 2x4 vertically on the jack and the other end on the side of the oil pan that I was working on. Make sure to place the board on the part of the oil pan where the bolts mount the oil pan to the engine.
6. Jack up the engine only enough to get the weight of the engine off the mount.
7. This is a different step that I used as well. There are four (4) bolts that hold the top engine mount bracket to the engine. I used a 3' extension with a swivel socket and I was able to remove the bolt by finding an access opening just in front and behind of the rotor. Once you look for the the 4 bolt you will be able to see them without a problem. Remove these 4 bolt and the bracket can easily be moved to remove the mount. On the drivers side use the access hole between the upper control arm.
8. By removing the top engine mount bracket you will not have to jack up the engine on the car so high that it will damage the power steering hoses.
9. Make sure that you lossen the upper engine mount nut before removing the mounting bracket or you will find it difficult to lossen it after the bracket bolts are removed. The bent box wrench makes the top bolt alot easier than any other method.
10. By doing it this way you will be able to place the heat sheild back on top of the mount easily. Also start the top nut after you have placed the bracket on the top of the mount. Next just work to turn and align the mounting bracket with the 4 bolt holes and start installing bolts. Again make sure to use thread lock on the bolts. The mounts have notches raise to fit into the upper and lower bracket and so correct placement is easy. Once these bolts are in, you can tighten up the top and bottom engine mount. You may have to either jack the engine slightly to get the four bolts on the bracket to line-up, but not a big deal.
11. Remember I used a car lift and it made the process easier. I could probably replace them on my other sc400 in less than 2 hours since I found this to be the easiest method.
12. Once you get started it's pretty straight forward. The key to making this easier is removing the top engine mount bracket.
13. Once you finish each side touque bolts back to specification.
14. Remember to use threadloc on the mounting bracket bolts.
Hope this helps and it was alot easier than I thought. By removing the upper mounting bracket you can quickly remove the mount without stress on the engine oil pan and power steering hoses.
04-02-07, 09:53 PM
#5
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No problem, others here have given me great information on other repairs. Love car so much I bought my other daughter one because they are reliable to get the where they need to go and back home again.
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