MJHSC400

Hi guys,

I read lextreme's writeup/tech articles regarding changing the timing belt as well as changing cams.. I also read planetsoarer's rendition of the same, and have some questions for those of you that might know.


I'm thinking that if you pull the cams and then start turning the motor with the belt in place it's going to be off time and could jump a few teeth when you're turning the crank with no tension on the belt. If this is true, can you put the belt back into position without removing the timing cover, or is this impossible to do with the belt left on the car??????????


How would you go about changing the seals with the heads on regarding the timing belt??? Would you have to remove it so you can turn the motor to bring each piston to TDC when working on the correlating valves? It seems that changing the cams doesn't involve actually turning the motor with the timing belt in place and the timing cover in place, though I could be wrong.



I have new seals ready to go in and the notorious smoking on startup, but no cloud on the insterstate at all under full throttle.

I also think the plugs/wires/caps/rotors need changing as it takes a good few turns to start, and I don't think that is compression related, as when the motor is warm it starts quickly every time.

I'm going to do a compression check when I replace the plugs/wires etc. so I'm not leaving that out.

Thanks for anyone's expertise on this matter.

Matt

MJHSC400

anybody? ...........

migitymark

good luck...i think your question is too technical for the majority here, no offense people. from my understanding, you would have to pull the timing covers so that you can turn the cam pullies to time the motor...come to think of it, you'd have to pull the covers to detach the cam from the cam pulley & get them out.

MJHSC400

I've kinda thought that would all need to be done at once-- and it's easiest to just prepare to do it right, as you won't waste your time-- I'll try some max-life for a few k miles to see if the seals will expand a bit, but if not, I'll just tear it all apart and use the rope-trick and take my time-- Like maybe 3 days -- I can ride the bus and walk everywhere I need to go-- yet, for some reason I have two cars-- anyone lookin??

Thanks for the input.. It will be worth it though for sure-

DHBomber

You can always use the same adapter tube for the compression checker with an air fitting on it. The air pressure will keep the valves up in the cylinder, however it will also force the piston to the bottom of the cylinder. As such, you'll have to make sure you don't drop a valve. After that, setup the timing belt as you would after a timing belt change. You'll probably have a hell of a time doing it otherwise.

MJHSC400

I only have a 5hp 15gal compressor, and don't want it running for hours while I do this-- Air is kind of out of the question-- Rope guarantees you won't drop a valve-- you just have to compress the rope tight enough that you can service the retainers without the stem moving-- so a jack/jackstand will come in handy to hold the wrench in place to keep the piston in position to compress the rope.

It's not going to be fun, but it will be educational, and time consuming--- and I'll probably try to replace a few shims while I'm in there to quiet a slight tick in one of the lifters--

Thanks for any more input--

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

With all the cams out the timing belt will be off & all the valves will
be closed. I've heard of the rope trick, but I always use compressed
air. A breaker bar on the crack pulley will keep the engine from rotating,
You'll need it anyway to rotate to the next cylinder. Good luck, this is
a huge project that requires a lot of time.

MJHSC400

This is why I've figured three days-- As I won't have a full day each day-- and I think/estimate I could do it in two halfdays, but always add to your estimation.

Regarding that rule, I estimate that my estimation is mis-calculated, and wouldn't be surprised if it took 4 days including pulling the timing cover and cams, etc. -- then doing the meticulous work involved in the removal of the springs/retainers/buckets-- and of course the re-assembly--

Honestly I really don't care if it's down for a week of halfdays-- as long as it gets done, and done properly-- as this will save me about $1500 in labor-- And $1500 a week aint bad pay IMO--

Thanks for all the input Supra Dr.

If anyone has done the timing belt service I'd be glad to hear any tips/pointers any of you guys may have.