Belement

I read the topic about ticking that is caused by lifters and that is exactly what my car has and I wanna stop it. I read what Jibby said on the topic that had the ticking issue saying that using 1 quart of tranny fluid would solve this for 500miles, and had some questions. Since I had ask a couple of people about it they said to use a older or generic tranny fluid cause some of them have abrasives in them, and that could harm the engine. I am coming up on my next oil change in about 1000miles and wanted to get an idea of which I should buy to try this out.

MJHSC400

Nice wheels man--

Seafoam can help this-- Rislone can help it-- Marvel mystery oil can help it--
Lucas oil stabilizer says it will help, but I don't see how, as it is thicker than oil instead of thinner-- But it could possibly help by sealing the hydraulic lifter giving it better pressure--

I think those tricks are all about increasing oil pressure and/or cleaning-freeing stuck lifters----

They all have valid arguments-- But a single noisly lifter can also be replaced for not too much money--

Belement

Seafoam was another thing I have been unclear about I have used it in lawn equipment and stuff but not in my car, too scared If I do use it I run it in my gas tank and oil right? Also heard about vac lines but dont think I am gonna go that far. If I run it in my oil do I do that same thing and run it in 500miles before oil change or a less miles before? Thanks in advance

Would like to have additional info about the tranny fluid trick I will post my results!

MJHSC400

As far as running seafoam thru the vac. line -- it's not that big a deal-- it just sucks it into the intake-- and it's easier than pulling off your intake and pouring it into your throttle body-- It doesn't hurt anything, it just burns off the carbon buildup on your exhaust valves and combustion chamber, including the tops of the pistons-- Running it in your fuel will clean your fuel system-- It's a solvent-- When doing the vac line-- you can do about 6~8 ounces-- it seems like a lot, but you burn 30 gal. gas in a week or two-- You just need to keep the rpm's up a little while it's ingesting the seafoam-- or it will likely stall-- until it burns off a huge cloud of white smoke--

Running it in your oil -- it still works as a solvent-- and provides cleaning as well as better oil pressure to valvetrain parts-- The oil pressure is the reason you would also use ATF for a little while -- it thins it out -- It's been known to be used by used car dealers-- to quieten lifters -- I wouldn't run it hard when doing this-

And it could just need a new lifter-- which in itself is not an entirely difficult job-- if it's on the exhaust side that is...

twizted

iTrader: (2)

The only way you are going to get a valve tick to stop on this car with that many miles is to pull the valve covers off get the specs and adjust each at TDC. Then run it and see if it sounds within what your looking for. I believe this car has auto adjusting hydraulic lifters, your always going to have a little tick but within specs...

Belement

Great info so if I run seafoam in oil how long should I run it in the oil for? also if run in the gas I should do a tune up right after heard that it fouls the plugs. And if I run ATF which kind should I run a cheap kind or same as the stuff already in my tranny? I listened to the lifters and it sounds like I have at least 3 lifters sticking.

MJHSC400

Directions on the bottle-- I think the plugs may die from it but only if you do the vac line burn-out-- not in the gas alone--

All the carbon burns off as well as a/f ratio is WAY rich while it's burning the seafoam out-- only when you pour it in the intake [thru vac line] should it possibly foul plugs-- It possibly wont foul platinum plugs, or iridiums either

I would stay away from ATF in the crankcase, and use Marvel mystery oil or rislone-- it's formulated for it-- but that's just my opinion....

MJHSC400

Like twizted said, clearances have most likely changed and re-shimming should take care of the problem--

If it's a loud low speed clack-clack-clack lifters may be collapsed-- If so I'd look for sludge under the oil fill cap--

If it's not quite as pronounced and loud it's probably just clearances--

2GTSVETTE

I tryed seafoam it didnt work. just wasted my money and time.. i am thinking about that transmission oil trick.. if that doesnt work ill just take of my valve covers and redo/replace them myself.

MJHSC400

Seafoam is most likely better at keeping a healthy engine healthy-- it is very effective at removing carbon buildup-- and cleaning the fuel system-- however-

There is nothing in a bottle that can adjust valve clearances to date that I know about.

I really don't think lifters would be that bad to replace-- But while you're in there you should be replacing that exhaust cam with a regrind--

MJHSC400

Oh, I forgot about "Valve Lash in a bottle" by Blammkonn--

jibbby

I have used 1 quart of transmission fluid in with the oil on many smaller import motors with sticking valves..4 bangers, 6 bangers, etc..%85 of the time it has worked or helped considerably....THe Tranny fluid acts as a cleaning detergent to free up sticky lifters, etc.....No harm will come to your engine and it is worth a try...This is a very old mechanic's trick...Run the tranny fluid in with the oil for 200-500 miles then change the entire oil and you should notice improvement with the lifter noises..tick, tick, tick.....Use only 1 quart and not any more, and the motor will be fine and run the same.....

I am not so sure many know about this little trick but it is worthy and legitimate...

twizted

iTrader: (2)

Shade tree mechanic lol, i must just say as an ASE tech. Yes somtimes we take some shortcuts, only as a TEMPORARY fix till a real solution can be afforded

MJHSC400

I guess if it permanently frees a sticky lifter, it's worth a shot.... I had a noisy lifter I just couldn't get rid of no matter what I put in the crankcase in a SR20DE... That's an overbuilt motor very similar to a 1UZ, but half the size.... 2.0, forged rods/crank, 87/87 bore/stroke.... 140/130 hp/tq spins to 7800 fuel cut....

Anyway, a bottle of magic liquid is way cheaper than new lifters... But while you're in there, you may as well just do a full valve job and head rebuild , although replacing just the bad lifters after locating them with a steth may work for a long long time.... Who knows....

angyll20

The ATF trick is used by many rotary(rx7) owners. For those engines it helps lube the apex seals and free up or eliminate sludge from the springs that force the apex seals into position. If you know the basic principles behind rotary engines then this makes sense, I don't know how else to explain it. I used this trick on my rx7 and it worked amazingly. Although you also have to remember that rotary engines burn oil all the time so when you mix the ATF in with the oil it is just being burned away. In those motors you put the ATF into the leading plug holes, reinstall the plugs, crank it and let it run about 10 min or until the smoke clears. Not sure how it would work on a conventional motor though. What you must remember about ATF is that it is made to last and essentially keep cleaning itself along with the tranny in a closed-loop system for around 60k miles or more(depending on driving habits). I hope this sheds some light a little.