anyone do a write up on changing from distributor to coils?
 

I want to lose this distributor eventually on my quest for big power.

Has anyone written up a post on how to swap to coils? I couldn't find anything through search, seems like the wiring will be a pain in the ass.

Are distributors a pita on these cars?

I eliminated the distributor on my Camaro using:

http://www.bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html

It's easier to go 1JZ

eh, i have a aristo 2jz sitting in the garage, but already a pretty impressive setup on the NA car (GT42, intake mani, etc) so I might just try and max out the distributor and see what is possible.

I would like to really build the **** out of this NA though, i have heard rumors about the NA head being superior, but never heard of anyone taking it to the next level (i.e., 3.4L + headwork) rather than just doing the GTE head.

I would really like to see someone who has done Honda CBR coils.

Here ya go,
a 3.4L TT shortblock waiting for a ported and polished NA head:)
https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/da...Stroker_06.JPG

gadgetSC-t

excellent. what turbo? 47-80 / 47-88? auto or 6speed?

I have figured out everything necessary to convert the distributor to COP that completely eliminates the distributor when running the AEM EMS.

The main problem is that the distributor provides crank and cam signals to the ECU using a magnetic pickup scheme. Consequently, when you pitch the distributor, you also have to re-instrument the motor with new crank/cam sensors. I solved that problem by using a dual-pole Hall effect sensor and an aftermarket cam gear instrumented with rare earth magnets. However, the hall sensor output is not compatible with the signal conditioning of a mag pickup sensor; so, I went in and modified my EMS to accept a digital square wave instead of the AC signal from the OEM crank/cam sensor. It also requires changing all the ignition sync, fuel/spark phasing, and crank teeth tables, as well.

Does it work?... Absolutely. I can now run any compatible TT cam on my 2jz-ge motor. That has contributed to the numbers in my sig. Is it worth it? No! Get yourself a TT head and oil pump and use TT cam/crank sensors. You'll be happy you did.

For completeness, I've attached pictures of my setup. Unfortunately, this solution is not for sale because it involves modifications to the AEM which voids the warranty, and I can't be responsible for that. Additionally, the solution won't work with the OEM ECU because the signals are incompatible, and the number of crank teeth are cut in half.

For the rest of the ignition, I run wasted-spark COP using VVT-i coils, a Mitsu ignitor that's designed for wasted spark, and an MSD DIS4 CDI box.

-scott

Here's a pic of the cam gear and sensor. Note, I flipped the cogged wheel around so the magnets are on the back side of the cam gear. This picture shows the magnets from the front.

-scott

Gee,

Awfully hard to imagine any real gain in such a conversion. You already have a very reliable, point-less system with the engine, with actual ignition firing controlled by the ECU. I just don't understand going to all that trouble and expense to duplicate a flawless system that rarely gives any problems? Maybe I'm missing something, but I'd sure spend my money on something that would give measurable gains in performance and/or reliability.

well, for people like me, running hopefully high horsepower, the distributor might end up being the weak link. not only that, but it really hurts turbo placement with the larger turbos.

so, what is the highest power someone has put out while still running the distributor?