happypanda

alright..so im getting ready to connect everything and putting the engine bay back to how its suppose to be. The fmic/piping isnt on or made yet so theres no way i was starting the car. I did put the battery terminals back on tho to check the power of the car and see if everything work..like accessories...but when i plugged in the terminals..the car cranks...what the? ...everything seems plugged right...any ideas? all i did was extend the plug harness to the kick panel..i didnt touch the ecu harness plugs at all...im still using the stock 2jz alternator, and harness on the car. i left the 1jz alt plug hangin b/c its attached to the motor harness itself. I'm trying to figure out what would cause the car to crank and have the starter activated when battery is connected?

thanks in advance for the help guys...im gettin closer and closer to starting this beast...atleast i heard it crank hahaha...but ya..im aiming for the end of the week to finally have the car finished and hope its running..then ill post pics...let me know guys..thanks for all ur help

happypanda

anyone? i will be looking at it tomorrow..just want to have some ideas from some 1jz guys or tuner guys out there ....

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

Mightt wanna check the starter, my starter went bad on my stock 2j engine and did the same thing, kept cranking till I pulled gthe battery

kaosman

My engine did this exact same thing. My SC300 is a 5-speed and the 1JZ clip was an automatic. What I had to do was bypass the stock 1JZ wire that activates the starter solenoid in the black box near the battery, run a new wire into the ECU area, and splice it into the correct starter wire in one of the gray body connectors.

The "starter relay" wire is a black wire in the 8-pin connector right next to the battery. Run a wire from this connector and splice it into pin 8 of connector CF1 (there will be no pin in this location with the stock 1JZ connector). Pin 8 is the starter relay wire, this is 12+ volts when the clutch pedal is pressed and the key is turned to "Start".

happypanda

kaos...seems like your situation was a clutch switch to activate the starter so u can turn on the car with the clutch on....but im sure its along the same type of troubleshooting....

so your car turned on when you plugged in the battery? do you have a writeup of what you did...

2.5tsoarer....when ur starter went bad, the car cranked when you connected the battery terminals? even if there is no key on the ignition?

thanks guys...i will be looking more into it tomorrow and i would like to have a few ideas on what to do...keep em coming..thanks

kaosman

I don't have a write-up, but my earlier post outlines what needs to be done. I had the exact same issue, due to the wiring differences between my 5-speed and the 1JZ clip, the small wire going to the starter had 12 volts the moment I hooked up the battery terminal. That small wire is controlled by a relay in the black box next to the battery. That's where I bypassed the stock black wire, with a new wire that's run to the CF1 body connector by the ECU. This also gave me the completely stock operation of the clutch switch.

happypanda

ok that makes sense..so right now the starter is constantly on ON when 12 volt is applied..i need to bypass the wire to only have the starter get 12v when the key is on "start". Let me know what exactly needs to be run from where to where. pics would be great. I dont have a MANUAL on me so it would be hard to understand which is what. thanks in advance. hope this can be fixed tomorrow so i can do the fmic piping and exhaust and have the car STARTED=) im excited.

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

yes even w/o key in it, the ground trigger in the starter shorted out.

happypanda

ok ill go check out those few things..hope i can figure it out...the ge starter work?

VJ RC51

ge works fine