So your door handle doesnt work - DIY w/ pics
07-14-13, 10:18 AM
#271
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Metal rod broken, not plastic clip.
Hello, my driver door does not open from the outside on my SC300. However, I discovered that the plastic clip is fine; it's the metal loop on the opposite end of the rod that is broken. I have not been able to find this part number or part. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
07-15-13, 02:34 PM
#272
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Broken rod
nice write-up. this is something that should be fixed right away, because when that platic clip is broken, the rod is able to sit in a wierd position, and it can get caught in the way of the power window. when i bought my previous sc that clip was broken on the passenger side and the rod was actually bent and broken from somebody putting the window down, not knowing the damage they were causing.
I contacted the dealership, and they told me the rod is not sold separately; it is part of the latch (P/N 69320) with a price of $445.07. D'oh! Any suggestions?
07-22-13, 01:32 PM
#273
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Do u guys know if where i can get the metal rod.. and where does it locate too.. and second i am missing that rod and i need that rod.. so yea... anyonr know the parts number..
07-22-13, 01:49 PM
#275
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Door actuator rod
The Lexus dealership says that the rod is part of the door mechanism and is not sold separately. If your rod is completely missing, then you might have to go to the junk yard or perhaps someone else on the forum is making replacements. My rod was broken (see photos above) but I fixed it over the weekend using the info I found on page 18 of this thread (posted by PERRYinLA). I bought a new plastic clip at the dealership for $6, then I used the drawing to cut out the forked piece from sheet metal. Instead of welding it, I drilled a hole in the flat part of the rod and bolted it together (with LockTite). Works great. Unfortunately, that is not much help if the rod is completely missing.
08-04-13, 07:46 PM
#276
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Excellent DIY article
This DIY for fixing the passenger door was spot-on! I'm not a very experienced DIY but I was able to remove the door panel (from one of the links) and then install the part (purchased at my local Toyota dealership for about $3.75) in about 1-1.5 hours taking my time. The only tricky part was getting my hands up into the door and installing the part by touch as I couldn't see it. BTW, I found that pulling up on the exterior door handle made getting the part in place much easier (if a bit of contortion to hold it). Regardless, many thanks for posting these directions. Club Lexus is unbeatable for keeping our rides going...
08-22-13, 09:15 PM
#277
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heres a doozy
So i have replaced the driver's side clip with a new one. worked great until i put the door back together.
The handle works and opens the door from outside and inside.
but a new problem has evolved. if the door is closed, i lock the door with the key i am able to open the door from the outside. doesnt matter which way i lock it, i am able to open the "locked" door.
i inspected the lock cable and it seems more comfortable in the "unlock" position. when locking the door with the key, i can feel that it is not locking properly. it feels like its catching on something.
if i had to guess, the cable is stretched or the actuator assembly is messed up somehow from when i installed a new clip for the door handle...
Anyone else with a similar issue?
The handle works and opens the door from outside and inside.
but a new problem has evolved. if the door is closed, i lock the door with the key i am able to open the door from the outside. doesnt matter which way i lock it, i am able to open the "locked" door.
i inspected the lock cable and it seems more comfortable in the "unlock" position. when locking the door with the key, i can feel that it is not locking properly. it feels like its catching on something.
if i had to guess, the cable is stretched or the actuator assembly is messed up somehow from when i installed a new clip for the door handle...
Anyone else with a similar issue?
09-12-13, 01:54 PM
#279
Okay. This is an old thread, but I'll add some info, hoping it helps someone else.
My door opened from the outside, but not the inside. My door handle cable (with the blue end) was broken at the actuator, where it was supposed to click into the forked metal to hold the cable housing in place while the inner cable moved. I thought that was my problem, but then realized that even pulling on the entire cable would not open the door. I picked up a used actuator, then removed mine. It then made sense, comparing the two, and I'll post a picture later. The cable end installs into a lever --- basically a ball has to be moved past a slot, the cable has to be slipped through the slot, then the direction that the cable pulls keeps everything in place. The lever is a somewhat Z shaped thing, with the slot in one of the horizontal parts of the Z (the one toward your inner door handle). I found that my entire Z was stretched out, so it was longer than it should be. It no longer had the travel needed, or the proper leverage, to move the latch mechanism the way it should have. When I moved the lever on the replacement actuator, which didn't have a stretched Z, it would lift the rod that goes into the out handle with a plastic clip. When I moved the old one with the bent Z lever, the rod barely moved. The rod for the outside handle still operated the latch, but the cable lever for the inside handle did not.
I had a heck of a time trying to get the outer handle rod out of the clip. There was no way to grab it and pull. I finally removed the two bolts with 10mm heads that secure the outer handle, pulled it partly out of the outside of the door, then was able to pull the rod out. Unfortunately, I still broke the clip. I'm on my way now to try to salvage one from a U-pull near me that has an SC4 I've been getting parts from. I came in to get the part # in case I have to try a Toyota dealer after breaking another one! Decided to write this before going.
One other thing: Some people are talking about a fork on the other end of the rod. If I'm not mistaken, a fork means that your rod is broken. You aren't supposed to have a fork --- you're supposed to have a loop. If you have a fork, the bottom of the loop broke off.
Hope that helps someone.
My door opened from the outside, but not the inside. My door handle cable (with the blue end) was broken at the actuator, where it was supposed to click into the forked metal to hold the cable housing in place while the inner cable moved. I thought that was my problem, but then realized that even pulling on the entire cable would not open the door. I picked up a used actuator, then removed mine. It then made sense, comparing the two, and I'll post a picture later. The cable end installs into a lever --- basically a ball has to be moved past a slot, the cable has to be slipped through the slot, then the direction that the cable pulls keeps everything in place. The lever is a somewhat Z shaped thing, with the slot in one of the horizontal parts of the Z (the one toward your inner door handle). I found that my entire Z was stretched out, so it was longer than it should be. It no longer had the travel needed, or the proper leverage, to move the latch mechanism the way it should have. When I moved the lever on the replacement actuator, which didn't have a stretched Z, it would lift the rod that goes into the out handle with a plastic clip. When I moved the old one with the bent Z lever, the rod barely moved. The rod for the outside handle still operated the latch, but the cable lever for the inside handle did not.
I had a heck of a time trying to get the outer handle rod out of the clip. There was no way to grab it and pull. I finally removed the two bolts with 10mm heads that secure the outer handle, pulled it partly out of the outside of the door, then was able to pull the rod out. Unfortunately, I still broke the clip. I'm on my way now to try to salvage one from a U-pull near me that has an SC4 I've been getting parts from. I came in to get the part # in case I have to try a Toyota dealer after breaking another one! Decided to write this before going.
One other thing: Some people are talking about a fork on the other end of the rod. If I'm not mistaken, a fork means that your rod is broken. You aren't supposed to have a fork --- you're supposed to have a loop. If you have a fork, the bottom of the loop broke off.
Hope that helps someone.
09-12-13, 02:00 PM
#280
So i have replaced the driver's side clip with a new one. worked great until i put the door back together.
The handle works and opens the door from outside and inside.
but a new problem has evolved. if the door is closed, i lock the door with the key i am able to open the door from the outside. doesnt matter which way i lock it, i am able to open the "locked" door.
i inspected the lock cable and it seems more comfortable in the "unlock" position. when locking the door with the key, i can feel that it is not locking properly. it feels like its catching on something.
if i had to guess, the cable is stretched or the actuator assembly is messed up somehow from when i installed a new clip for the door handle...
Anyone else with a similar issue?
The handle works and opens the door from outside and inside.
but a new problem has evolved. if the door is closed, i lock the door with the key i am able to open the door from the outside. doesnt matter which way i lock it, i am able to open the "locked" door.
i inspected the lock cable and it seems more comfortable in the "unlock" position. when locking the door with the key, i can feel that it is not locking properly. it feels like its catching on something.
if i had to guess, the cable is stretched or the actuator assembly is messed up somehow from when i installed a new clip for the door handle...
Anyone else with a similar issue?
09-13-13, 08:32 AM
#281
My camera is not working properly, so I'm sorry to say I can't upload the picture I promised. Too bad, because I would also like to offer some other pictures to help explain this, but can't.
I did learn some things yesterday that might help others. My SC3 is a '94. The plastic clip that I needed was for the driver's side. The number at the beginning of this thread, 69293-12030, is actually a passenger side part number. The corresponding driver side number is 69293-12040 ----- HOWEVER, I don't think that is actually the part that any of you with earlier SCs need (maybe later ones do use that part).
I took my broken clip with me yesterday, went to my local U-pull, and tried to remove the clip from the driver's door of the '93 SC4 that is there. The rod was very tight in the clip, just like in mine, and pulling it hard enough to remove also broke off half of the end that clipped into the outer handle. From there, I went to a local Toyota dealer, and asked for the 030 part listed above. They had it, for $3.50, including tax, but when I put it next to mine I realized I needed the other side, which is the 040 number. I also noticed that the 030 part was somewhat bigger, and shaped a little different, than the one I pulled out of my car. If you look at the pictures provided when this thread was started, you'll see that this was also true for the member that started it.
Unfortunately for me, that dealer was out of stock of the 040 part, so I had to drive across town to another Toyota dealer, Stevinson Toyota West. Stevinson Lexus was across the street, in the building that used to be Stevinson Toyota, so I accidentally went there first. They had the 69293-12040 part, but wanted $7.80 + tax for it, so I asked where the Toyota dealer was, and he sent me across the street. When I went over there, they had the 040 part . The part's man put it on the counter, and I put my broken part next to it. Like noted above about 030, the 040 was a little bigger and different than mine. The part's man said that I did not want the 040 part. He pointed out that the portion of the clip that slips into the outer handle before the rod was actually longer, like it belongs in a thicker piece of metal. I wish I could post a picture, but if you think of it like a dumbell, where one end pushes through the outer handle hole, and the other end is the rest of the clip, which gets rotated to clip around the rod, the handle part of the dumbell, the thinner part that fits in the hole, was longer on the 040 part than mine. It is the wrong part, and may explain why some people have had problems with their rod popping back out. This part's man knew his parts. He told me that I wanted 060, not 040. He returned with it, and it was identical to mine! It was also identical to the '93 one that I broke at the U-pull. It was, unfortunately, over $8, with tax. The 040 is cheaper, but not the right part.
I didn't get a receipt, so don't know for certain that 060 was short for 69293-12060, but I think that is the case. If so, the correct passenger side is probably 69293-12050, but I am just guessing. When you go to your local dealer, I suggest that you take your old clip with you, as well as all of the above part numbers, and make sure you get one the same as you took out. This should prevent the rod from popping back out, and possibly getting bent by the window rolling down. It is probably easier on the loop end of the rod if the handle end has less slop in it too.
If you go back to B1ackhawk's thread starter and look at his picture with the two parts next to a quarter, maybe my 'dumbell' analogy won't sound so dumbell. The new part in his picture, on the left, is bigger, and the thin part that fits in the hole of the outer handle is almost twice as long.
I did learn some things yesterday that might help others. My SC3 is a '94. The plastic clip that I needed was for the driver's side. The number at the beginning of this thread, 69293-12030, is actually a passenger side part number. The corresponding driver side number is 69293-12040 ----- HOWEVER, I don't think that is actually the part that any of you with earlier SCs need (maybe later ones do use that part).
I took my broken clip with me yesterday, went to my local U-pull, and tried to remove the clip from the driver's door of the '93 SC4 that is there. The rod was very tight in the clip, just like in mine, and pulling it hard enough to remove also broke off half of the end that clipped into the outer handle. From there, I went to a local Toyota dealer, and asked for the 030 part listed above. They had it, for $3.50, including tax, but when I put it next to mine I realized I needed the other side, which is the 040 number. I also noticed that the 030 part was somewhat bigger, and shaped a little different, than the one I pulled out of my car. If you look at the pictures provided when this thread was started, you'll see that this was also true for the member that started it.
Unfortunately for me, that dealer was out of stock of the 040 part, so I had to drive across town to another Toyota dealer, Stevinson Toyota West. Stevinson Lexus was across the street, in the building that used to be Stevinson Toyota, so I accidentally went there first. They had the 69293-12040 part, but wanted $7.80 + tax for it, so I asked where the Toyota dealer was, and he sent me across the street. When I went over there, they had the 040 part . The part's man put it on the counter, and I put my broken part next to it. Like noted above about 030, the 040 was a little bigger and different than mine. The part's man said that I did not want the 040 part. He pointed out that the portion of the clip that slips into the outer handle before the rod was actually longer, like it belongs in a thicker piece of metal. I wish I could post a picture, but if you think of it like a dumbell, where one end pushes through the outer handle hole, and the other end is the rest of the clip, which gets rotated to clip around the rod, the handle part of the dumbell, the thinner part that fits in the hole, was longer on the 040 part than mine. It is the wrong part, and may explain why some people have had problems with their rod popping back out. This part's man knew his parts. He told me that I wanted 060, not 040. He returned with it, and it was identical to mine! It was also identical to the '93 one that I broke at the U-pull. It was, unfortunately, over $8, with tax. The 040 is cheaper, but not the right part.
I didn't get a receipt, so don't know for certain that 060 was short for 69293-12060, but I think that is the case. If so, the correct passenger side is probably 69293-12050, but I am just guessing. When you go to your local dealer, I suggest that you take your old clip with you, as well as all of the above part numbers, and make sure you get one the same as you took out. This should prevent the rod from popping back out, and possibly getting bent by the window rolling down. It is probably easier on the loop end of the rod if the handle end has less slop in it too.
If you go back to B1ackhawk's thread starter and look at his picture with the two parts next to a quarter, maybe my 'dumbell' analogy won't sound so dumbell. The new part in his picture, on the left, is bigger, and the thin part that fits in the hole of the outer handle is almost twice as long.
Last edited by hoosier58; 09-13-13 at 08:44 AM. Reason: more info
09-13-13, 09:04 AM
#282
Passenger side 69293-12030. Drivers side 69293-12040.
DO NOT ROLL YOUR WINDOW. The rod pictured is hanging freely now and when the window attemps to roll down the rod is in the way and will get damaged. My rod had bent luckly it wasn't to bad I had bent the rod back into the position it needed to be.
Thanks club lexus never fail me
DO NOT ROLL YOUR WINDOW. The rod pictured is hanging freely now and when the window attemps to roll down the rod is in the way and will get damaged. My rod had bent luckly it wasn't to bad I had bent the rod back into the position it needed to be.
Thanks club lexus never fail me
09-17-13, 04:41 PM
#283
being the dummy that I am, I managed to break off the metal are that the piece of plastic snaps onto. Does anybody know if I can replace the metal arm, or do I need a whole new part (the actuator I guess).
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
09-18-13, 06:21 PM
#284
Otherwise, you'll need an actuator.
I'm in Denver. There are two good ones at a U-pull near me (I already pulled the driver side, trying to get the clip --- it was there yesterday, in the trunk, where I stashed it).
I think they only charged me $25 or $35 the last time I bought one.
