no it wasn't. You used the Boost Logic piping kit and do not have a duct. Including shipping, silicone couplers & clamps, labor to have your fmic mounted, and fmic itself, I'm pretty sure you paid more than $500 total. tell the truth! Let's not forget the intercoolers in my kit are brand new and not used (your fmic) ;).

the boostlogic piping came with couplers and clamps.. i dont need a duct.. my fmic would have cost me $50 more if i bought it new.. $150 for the fmic, $350 for the brand new never used BL piping kit with all the couplers. $500 total.. Who counts labor when comparing the cost of the parts? My setup also looks cleaner :egads:

You forgot to mention the cost of fabricating brackets for your intercooler ;) . You don't even have an intake air filter! Also, my setup is not complete so you can't compare "cleanliness of setups." At least all the parts in my kit are brand new.

my, what nice things $25 can do these days :p:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...cuumsource.jpg



Preparing the engine for the machine shop:

https://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b...nginePrep1.jpg

wow this thread is very informative i just spent about an hour reading this whole thing and learning. My cousin John from Broadway-performance.com has had two fully swapped pearl white 2jz sc300 w/ 6speed transmissions he also single turboed them both one with a t66db and the next one coming is going to be a t67db. check them out on his site they are awesome! since his influence i've been searching every where to find a sc300 5spd around my area (northern Jersey) to turbo Hopefully soon I will find one. But i appreciate this whole guide you put together for us newbies

Hopefully, the engine block will be out and @ the machine shop in a few hours :):

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...emovalprep.jpg



damn carbon deposits on the engine block surface can be a PITA to remove :mad:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...movalprep2.jpg

Man at this point a GTE swap would have been cheaper (really either the 1jzgte or 2jzgte).. You are a trooper for sticking it out. in the words of Rick James " I wish I had 4 hands so I could give you 4 thumbs up"..

thanks :p . The labor for removing the engine is free and the machine shop is giving me a good deal to inspect the engine block. the entire point of doing this is to avoid doing it twice. if the crankshaft is scarred, i'll just get another engine for cheap. if the engine block is good, then i'll get a used head for cheap...so the purpose is to save money that i don't have ;)

Update:

2JZ vs. Engine Hoist :eek1:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ngineHoist.jpg

i sent you an im on aol about the clutch.... give yourself more room than that to get that block out. you need that hoist to be able to move a good 3 feet to get it out with the hood on so as to not damage anything on the car. If the radiator isnt already out take that out and it will help a ton, it should give you a good 3-5 inches of extra clearance to move the block forward and start pivoting the front of the block up.

Thanks vipsoarer. After unscrewing the 6 bolts, I just had to pry between the RPS pressure plate and flywheel to remove the pp/clutch disc combo :). You're right, I could only get the engine out with the hood still on by removing the radiator (easy, just unscrew 2 bolts on each upper corner holding radiator in place :thumbup: ) Project eye candy:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval1.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval2.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval3.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval4.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval5.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval6.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval7.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval8.jpg

Just some more knowledge sharing for all of you :cool: :

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...neRemoval9.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...eRemoval10.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...eRemoval11.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...eRemoval12.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...eRemoval13.jpg

I have read this post from beginning to end, and I must say thanks for taking the time out to cronicle your experience with turboing your car. I am still on the fence about going through getting a sc300 and turboing it. However reading about your install is pushing me towards getting one. :woot: You will be at that 400rwhp mark soon! Oh yeah, while you have it out, you might as well paint the engine.

Thanks for the appreciation :cool: . You can also buy a fully legalized Toyota Soarer for~$8,000-$8,500 if you don't mind right hand drive. This is cheaper than turboing a Lexus SC300. I'll finish the intercooler piping when the engine is back in the car.

how are you doing on your car?
i keep checking your thread to see how it is going, i almost feel like i am racing you to see who finishes first...lol but your doing WAYYYYYY more work than i am.
good luck and thanks for so many great informative threads! :thumbup:

The machine shop won't be able to tear down the engine until Monday since they're so busy :(. so it's a waiting game, but at least i'm in line :p