uh turbo time NA-T feed me!
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I've seen the BoostLogic kit, it's very good quality. But, I don't have $1,000+ for an intercooler solution, so I'm forced to come up with something cheaper that fits my needs and intercooling desires..
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Originally Posted by 2jznat
why didn't you call i had a spare front mount 
I think I just bent my exhaust cam shaft.. I accidently made two passes on the cam caps and forgot to unscrew the #11 and #12 bolts...needed to use a wrench as leverage and a hammer to get the camshaft off the head
. It's very minor bend, but does anyone know what this would cost from a machine shop to bend it back to spec?Another reason why I will never buy another tool made in CHINA:
Last edited by dejacky; May 11, 2006 at 10:23 PM.
Lead Lap
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Florida
I have two spare NA exhaust camshafts laying around. Shoot me a PM.
Next time, don't force the shaft off the journal. Put the other cam caps back on until the stress has been taken off the journal that's jammed.
You should most definitely inspect the head-side of the journal to ensure it wasn't damaged.
-scott
Next time, don't force the shaft off the journal. Put the other cam caps back on until the stress has been taken off the journal that's jammed.
You should most definitely inspect the head-side of the journal to ensure it wasn't damaged.
-scott
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I'm taking it to a machine shop to make sure, thanks Motorheaddown. I may just take you up on your offer!
Update:
After inspection the machine shop says I should replace the head because of the previous scarring on the head and front journal bearing cover...
I've ran 10,000 miles like this, but I trust these guys and am now looking for a new head. There is no point in putting this old scarred head back on that can only cause the bottom end problems in the future... any of you guys have a complete low mileage good condition 2jz-ge head for a 1995 lexus sc300 m/t? (complete = cams and all caps, etc..assembled)
Update:
After inspection the machine shop says I should replace the head because of the previous scarring on the head and front journal bearing cover...
I've ran 10,000 miles like this, but I trust these guys and am now looking for a new head. There is no point in putting this old scarred head back on that can only cause the bottom end problems in the future... any of you guys have a complete low mileage good condition 2jz-ge head for a 1995 lexus sc300 m/t? (complete = cams and all caps, etc..assembled)
Last edited by dejacky; May 12, 2006 at 01:50 PM.
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Finally got the head off..and I found out I did it correctly when I thought I didn't...but, the previous damage discovered or caused by the previous shop was severe. The machine shop recommends that I just get a new head..here's why:
This is what a normal Exhaust cam groove looks like:
Here is the damaged intake cam groove on the head:
Just like a chain reaction, it also scars the intake camshaft:
and let's not forget the cam cap!:
Anyone got a low mileage, great condition complete 2jz-ge head (with cam caps & camshafts) for a 1995 Lexus SC300?
This is what a normal Exhaust cam groove looks like:
Here is the damaged intake cam groove on the head:
Just like a chain reaction, it also scars the intake camshaft:
and let's not forget the cam cap!:
Anyone got a low mileage, great condition complete 2jz-ge head (with cam caps & camshafts) for a 1995 Lexus SC300?
Lead Lap
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From: TX
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214552
Complete head for sale there along with other stuff. GL!
Complete head for sale there along with other stuff. GL!
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Well,
I'm sick of waiting, so I just bought motorheaddown's unscarred camshaft and will be using it with my original head on the engine. Let project "lets see how long Dejacky's engine will last before it blows" begin! I've been using brake cleaner + rag and toothbrush to clean the engine block and pistons tops, but it doesn't seem effective at all. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
I'm sick of waiting, so I just bought motorheaddown's unscarred camshaft and will be using it with my original head on the engine. Let project "lets see how long Dejacky's engine will last before it blows" begin!
I've been using brake cleaner + rag and toothbrush to clean the engine block and pistons tops, but it doesn't seem effective at all. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Originally Posted by dejacky
Well,
I'm sick of waiting, so I just bought motorheaddown's unscarred camshaft and will be using it with my original head on the engine. Let project "lets see how long Dejacky's engine will last before it blows" begin! I've been using brake cleaner + rag and toothbrush to clean the engine block and pistons tops, but it doesn't seem effective at all. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
I'm sick of waiting, so I just bought motorheaddown's unscarred camshaft and will be using it with my original head on the engine. Let project "lets see how long Dejacky's engine will last before it blows" begin!
I've been using brake cleaner + rag and toothbrush to clean the engine block and pistons tops, but it doesn't seem effective at all. Does anyone have any other recommendations?Why not just get a new head especially since you have the car apart already? They are cheap. What a couple hundred dollars at this point?
btw, i may have one for sale but i need to see what condition its in when i tear the motor apart since the motor was making a knocking noise when i pulled it. I'll let it go pretty cheap so you can get your car back on the road if your intrested.
Last edited by 5spdSC300; May 21, 2006 at 11:24 PM.
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good point ...sometimes i just get impatient. I'm also pulling the bottom half of the motor out to have it inspected by a machine shop just in case...there's no sense in doing this tear down again 
.
Here are some development moc fitting pics of my vertical style FMIC kit (the final kit will have brackets and shorter mandrel bent piping & maybe a nice air duct for the fmic):
...sometimes i just get impatient. I'm also pulling the bottom half of the motor out to have it inspected by a machine shop just in case...there's no sense in doing this tear down again .Here are some development moc fitting pics of my vertical style FMIC kit (the final kit will have brackets and shorter mandrel bent piping & maybe a nice air duct for the fmic):
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Vertical Front mount kit development update:
I had to shorten one of the brackets, but it fits flush this way...I'm thinking of removing that horn thing in front of the radiator on the passenger side to push the intercooler closer to the radiator, thus make it less noticeable from the front .
All the final brackets should be finished by tomorrow
I had to shorten one of the brackets, but it fits flush this way...I'm thinking of removing that horn thing in front of the radiator on the passenger side to push the intercooler closer to the radiator, thus make it less noticeable from the front
.All the final brackets should be finished by tomorrow
your NA-T project only gets more exciting doesn't it?? good luck and keep up the good work. can't wait to see what it looks like when it's finished
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From: Behind you
I haven't touched the car for a while, but top and bottom brackets are done so the fmic doesn't need to be held up by jack stands :
and don't worry, the fmic outlet also clears everything fine for piping behind the passenger headlight
.
Estimated total cost for an entire FMIC kit with piping, duct + all accessories? = $500-$600 shipped
:and don't worry, the fmic outlet also clears everything fine for piping behind the passenger headlight
.Estimated total cost for an entire FMIC kit with piping, duct + all accessories? = $500-$600 shipped
Pole Position
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From: NJ
my setup was cheaper and better... lol
Originally Posted by dejacky
I haven't touched the car for a while, but top and bottom brackets are done so the fmic doesn't need to be held up by jack stands :
and don't worry, the fmic outlet also clears everything fine for piping behind the passenger headlight .
Estimated total cost for an entire FMIC kit with piping, duct + all accessories? = $500-$600 shipped
:and don't worry, the fmic outlet also clears everything fine for piping behind the passenger headlight
.Estimated total cost for an entire FMIC kit with piping, duct + all accessories? = $500-$600 shipped