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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 04:33 AM
  #136  
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get some wire loom and some electrical tape and round up all those wires to clean it up some. it will help reduce the risk of anything being pulled loose or out, in general. like chino said it should work just fine. lookin better by the day
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 08:31 AM
  #137  
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You should have sold the map-ecu and went for a piggy back instead

Anyways, use some zipties, hold those things together, and then crank her up!
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 01:24 PM
  #138  
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MAP-ECU installed and car won't start. I'm getting the battery recharged at Autozone and will try again in a few hours.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 03:17 PM
  #139  
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what basemap are you using? the hardest part is getting just enough to start and have a good idle. after that wideband that thing from there is much easier.
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 04:35 PM
  #140  
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I tried the following base maps:

2JZ-GE 440cc
VKF
2JZ-GTE 550cc single turbo
and another SF members 525cc fully tuned map for a pt61 turbo + daveH manifold
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 05:00 PM
  #141  
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take the map out, start the car with the afc.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 04:04 AM
  #142  
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I put the 2nd ground wire underneath a nut from the ecu metal floorboard nut and wallah she starts and idles a little before dying. So, she's breathed her first breath! However, there is this insane high pitched consistent whine coming somewhere from the car and I cannot trace it. As the rpms increase, the "sqeak" gets louder and the map-ecu shows the vacuum becoming more negative. Can someone please help me ascertain what is causing it?

Video Evidence (I did not press the throttle during the video, the idle difference happens automatically and it seems like the increase in rpms is caused by more negative vacuum):

http://media.putfile.com/NA-T-Squeal-Noise

http://media.putfile.com/MOV0262872

Last edited by dejacky; Nov 11, 2005 at 07:01 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 05:31 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by dejacky
I put the 2nd ground wire underneath a nut from the ecu metal floorboard nut and wallah she starts and idles a little before dying. So, she's breathed her first breath! However, there is this insane high pitched consistent whine coming somewhere from the car and I cannot trace it. As the rpms increase, the "sqeak" gets louder and the map-ecu shows the vacuum becoming more negative. Can someone please help me ascertain what is causing it?

Video Evidence (I did not press the throttle during the video, the idle difference happens automatically and it seems like the increase in rpms is caused by the loss of vacuum):

http://media.putfile.com/NA-T-Squeal-Noise
Did you remove the egr pipe inside the Y-intake? If you did remove it, and left the hole unplugged. It could cause that awful squeal or wistle while your car is running.
I had the exact same thing after removing the pipe. I had to fill the hole that was left. I used lead to fill the hole.
Hope this helps.



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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 06:10 AM
  #144  
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I did not remove the egr tube inside the Y-pipe, but I used 2 egr block off plates. I'm guessing leaving the pipe in should not cause these problems correct? I just read this thread on SF:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ighlight=whine

Read post #20 to skip to the point. My intak manifold gaskets are metal so I wasn't aware of the requirement to add silicone to them. Perhaps I have a similar problem?

Here is a new Video showing MAP-ECU screen:

http://media.putfile.com/MOV0262872

Last edited by dejacky; Nov 11, 2005 at 06:59 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2005 | 08:17 AM
  #145  
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Oops, Had a memory breakdown . I thought it was you who removed the egr pipe a short while back.
Just using the block-off plates should be fine and not cause the whine. I remembered that same sound after listening to the video you posted.
Wish I could offer more


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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 10:30 AM
  #146  
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Rich Idle..it ran better but probably flooded the engine:

http://media.putfile.com/Rich-Idle

Clublexus members who are familiar with the supra TT fuel pump swap, I'm worried about two aspects of the tt fuel pump install:

1. When clamped down with hose clamps, will the fact that the fuel pump outlet doesn't exactly match as nice as stock with the metal fuel line matter? The rubber connecting hose will have 2 small clamps on it anyways...

2. There is a little inner wire exposed before this black box. Is this okay or do I have to "fix" it? (only the outer insulator of the wire was sliced a bit and you can see the inner wire.)






Last edited by dejacky; Nov 12, 2005 at 01:46 PM.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 05:49 PM
  #147  
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ill try to get the base map we used on my friends mkiv na-t for ya.... i put in quite a few hours messing with that thing just getting it to start.... ill keep ya posted

btw- if possible, i'd ditch that map ecu also... after messing with one on my friends car, i hate it
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #148  
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Was your friend's car obd I or obd II and why do you hate the map-ecu? I would really appreciate your input and that map!
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Old Nov 13, 2005 | 08:28 AM
  #149  
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looking good... how much did your entire kit cost you?
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 12:51 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by chidoks
looking good... how much did your entire kit cost you?
It depends what you mean by "kit?" As of now, the car is in a shop getting the exhaust finished, recirculated, and Supra TT headgasket + ARP head studs will be installed when parts arrive. So, the TE-44 will hopefully be running at 1 bar of boost . My biggest dubacle is what to do about the stock 5 speed ...getrag swap seems too pricey. If anyone knows of any great deals or can help me with a 5 speed solution that will reliably handle 400rwtq daily, please pm me.
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