mteele

iTrader: (5)

I did a search, and couldnt find exactly what I was looking for.

I'm going to be getting my turbo project underway later this year, so I am still in the planning stages. The NA-T would obviously be the easiest and most straightforward path. But I've read tidbits here and there on the forums about the 1.5 "swap" (2jz bottom end w/ 1jz head) and was just wanting to get some more detailed information on the swap. Is a standalone needed to run this? Wiring issues? I assume I would use the PS pump, alternator, etc. from my 2JZ-GE?

I'm basically just wondering what the advantages of doing the 1.5 swap are over just the NA-T, besides the originality facotr. Is it any cheaper?

Thanks for any input you guys can offer!!!

~Matthew

Verge

you might as well just swap the whole engine in that case... head swap will still be pretty involving

indypwr

i heard the 1jz swap involves a lot of things including the lots of wiring harness modification.
i too, wz thinking of this swap but after i acquired more infos about it, i thought i wud just go for na-t instead. with 1jz, i heard the speedometer might not work properly or not at all and also some a/c issues..........if you do care about it that is. also, the drive shaft, i heard, on our cars might not direct bolt-on to the 1jz and would need to have custom made.

however, if you get the whole front clip of 1j, then it wud be a lot easier for the installer. personally, i would just go for na-t. rebuild my head, since i've got almost 180,000 miles on it, and boost it!!

mteele

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I was pretty set on doing the NA-T, just wanted to make sure that the 1.5 was that involved.

bean_8044

The 1jz swap is exactly the same as the 2jzgte swap. The only difference between the blocks aside from the crank is about 30mm of height. Your driveshaft is entirely dependant on which transmission you use. If you go with a R154 then youre going to have to get the soarer driveshaft or get yours shortened a bit. Not a hard job to do either. With the A/C, you are better off getting the full front cut if you want it to work. Space is very different between the Soarer engine bay and that of a SC300 engine bay