genyosai

Yep.

I actually fronted him the money to buy it It spun another bearing, so the motor is in the machine shop right now.

bmsport

Yeah, i went and got a sensor from a 95 civic and it does the exact same thing, pegged on hot. Wired 330 ohm resistors on both and pegged them both on cold. So basically the sensors are interchangable for a mkiv supra, but feed the SC gauge the same wrong signal.

I just ordered the radiator for a mkiv TT supra, fits fine in the bottom brackets, but you have to fab up the upper mounting brackets. Here is a pic..

genyosai

Nice hood shot Looks like under the hood of my Supra.

I'm going to take the sensor from my GE motor, drill out the location on the Supra motor and mount it in. I removed the GE radiator today, looked inside and it's all GUNKED UP! Some holes open, some clogged with muddy looking water.

I noticed in your sig that you installed the 6speed. Have any trouble installing the v160 in your car? I know I have to get a custom drive shaft... no problem. I have Supra clutch sets and bearing hub... no problem. I have an extra dual mass flywheel... no problem. Does the v160 bolt in easily? Does the shifter line up with the shifter opening in the car? Is the SC tranny tunnel large enough for the v160? Do you use the stock v160 tranny mount/support? I have a spare v160 that I was thinking of installing. I'm currently running a tranny from a 1jz (R154 5speed).

Thanks,

genyosai

OK. My last question about this temp sensor.

The GTE motor has two sensors in the housing that the upper radiator hose connects to. One sensor is larger than the other. I need to replace the smaller, 1-wire sensor (yellow/blue), right? If I'm not mistaken this is the temp sender unit for the gage and the other is an actual temp switch (with 2 wires) of some sort.

bmsport

Thats right, the smaller sensor feeds the gauge while the larger feeds the ecu. Since the supra sensor is smaller, the hole will need to be drilled and tapped out to fit the larger GE sensor.

bmsport

Ok, update, the guys at the machine shop said the existings hole cant be drilled out big enough to tap out the 16mm threads. Something to do with the boss of the waterneck. so the SAGA of the temp gauge continues. Next idea, put it in the hose with a special adapter. So dumb, i swear.

genyosai

Hmmm... I actually just got through tapping the water neck and the GE sensor screws in nicely. I guess I'll find out whether it works or not once I ge the car back together.

I removed the water neck for easier access. When I did this I realized that the gasket between the water neck and cylinder head was really hard and cracking. So, I had to order another gasket from Toyota which will be two days getting here. Guess the SC is down for at least another couple of days.

As for my radiator issue. I bought a replacement from NAPA. They had one in stock that I could view before purchasing. Turns out that this unit is for an automatic SC, so I think that the cooling capacity should be greater. When looking down the openning of the radiator I CAN see that the water jackets on this new one are larger than the jackets on my stock radiator.

I'll let everyone know how this turns out once the car is running again.

bmsport

They complained about the boss size of the area not being large enough. Is there any way you can take a pic of what you did? Also, where did you get the M16 x 1.5 tap? Can i rent it from you, lol.

I just sanded off the area and put it back on, no gasket and it doesnt leak. I probably should have a gasket though, lol.

I had a 5 speed in there before, but the trans tunnel is definitly too small, so i had to take a BFH and pound out the tunnel in certain areas. After than i installed the supra lsd and had a custom driveshaft made up by larry at innovations in winter park, florida. I have a little driveline noise at idle, but it goes away with load.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Guy's here is a novel idea for you. When i need to use a resistor and i do not know which one i simply use a potentiometer. (variable resistor)

Using a variable "****" resistor i can vary the resistance until it is correct. There are millions of them in every ohm, but since you guy's like to try to make it work around 330 ohms, simply grab a potentiometer that varies from 0 to 500 ohms and see how it works out, you can then go to a 500 to 1000 ohm variable if the other isnt right.

This way you could literally "dial" the setting in. once you feel you have it where you want it, take a reading with a voltmeter and go purchase the ohm of fixed resistor that you get when you take your reading.

bmsport

I'm no wiring guru, but using the stock supra sensor makes the gauge pin on hot, but when a 330 ohm resitor is wired in, it pegs it on cold, therefore the correct resitor to use must be somewhere between 0 and 330 ohms?

genyosai

I bought the 16x1.5 tap from my local ACE hardware. I used a 14.5mm drill bit to drill out the current location (also from ACE). Here's the trick, though. I swapped the location of the two sensors on the water neck. The boss on the lower sensor is huge, yet the sensor is only a 10x1.5 . Soooo... I tapped the lower sensor location to 16x1.5mm, then tapped the upper sensor to 10x1.5. This way I put the temp sender unit in the lower position and the temp sensor in the upper location (boss is large enough for the 10mm size).

As for the verdict..... the sensor works great. I now know that my car is running hot because of no water flow !!! The blades on the water pump are good because I can stick my finger through the thermostat opening and feel the blades spin as I turn te crank with a wrench. The thermostat is good because I boiled it in a pot an it opens at about 178 degrees. The radiator is new. So... somewhere in the block or the head there's a blockage.

I suspect that my stock SC radiator is the blame. I made the mistake of using it even though I saw how crappy the water was that came out of it when I was about to remove the GE motor. I guess the bottom end of the radiator was GUNKED up and that stuff finally got in the engine somewhere.

A shop near me tried doing a coolant service for me and noticed that the water wasn't flowing well at all. This is what prompted me to buy a radiator. Turns out the coolant STILL doesn't flow. Is there any such thing as a place that can pump pressure/cleaner through the collant system to try unclogging it??

bmsport

Good job, i'll try and do that tommorrow. My ace didnt have the correct tap, so i'll have to try another one out of town.

5spdSC300

iTrader: (1)

i was just wondering if you got the stock tach to work and if so how did you do so. im currently in the middle of the swap and just trying to see what my options are with the tach.

bmsport

MSD 8290 tach conversion unit. Just do a search on the forum as to how to wire it in.

genyosai

Yep... MSD tach converter is what I used also. Works like a champ. Dash-tach reads almost exactly as the tach on my SAFC.

Anyway. Here's the latest.

I'm using the GE temp sender unit. I crank the car for the first time this morning, the temp gage is on "C" (so far so good). In less than two minutes, the gage takes off towards the "H" and then pegs there! Last night I thought this indicated that something was blocked in my motor since I replaced the radiator. I ruled out a bad water pump since it's new.

Now, even if there was no water flow... who here thinks that the car can peg hot in less than two minutes while idling from a dead cold start??? I don't think this is possible. I think my temp gage is still reading wrong. the main reason I think this is because finally I was like "screw it", and drove the heck out of it all this morning. THE CAR RUNS FINE... AND IT'S STILL RUNNING! Wouldn't you say that if the car was REALLY hot, I probably wouldn't be able to drive it long on a 91 degree day, hitting boost with the A/C running??

Is it possible for a bad temp sender to send a false high-temp reading?

any input would be useful.

Thanks,