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1994 SC400 power steering pump replacement gone bad

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Old 11-11-03, 06:12 PM
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TGRich
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Default 1994 SC400 power steering pump replacement gone bad

Well, I just came back from the garage after spending 4 hours on my buddy's sc400 trying to take off the p/s pump. Unfortunately, we could only get the one nut off and none of the 2 bolts off- I think there's only 3, thats all we could see anyway.The two bolts were just too hard to access- I don't know how anyone can get at them. We had the car on jack stands, pulled the filter box and half the intake, the p/s resevoir, p/s pulley, and the radiator resevoir. If anyone know what we did wrong or any tricks, please let me know b/c this was driving me nuts!

Here's a pic of the nut we did get off- to the left of the pic is the shaft where the pulley connects to.
Attached Thumbnails 1994 SC400 power steering pump replacement gone bad-dsc00983.jpg  
Old 11-11-03, 06:14 PM
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TGRich
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And here's a pic of the 3 bolts we just couldn't get off. Are there only 3 disconnect points to remove the pump?
So we basically spent 4 hours to replace the p/s fluid and leave the intake snorkel off to get a little moe air
Attached Thumbnails 1994 SC400 power steering pump replacement gone bad-dsc00982.jpg  
Old 11-12-03, 11:59 PM
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Fred Smith
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Like all the SC4 accessories, the PS pump is a pain in the ***. Not as bad as the AC compressor though. From memory, I think there were 2 bolts on the side, and a bolt on the front, and a nut on the front too.

First I took off the low pressure hose and the suction port union. Then the high pressure bolt. Not sure if this actually came out before the pump or if it fouled on the chassis. I think I took the top side bolt off from above. The the bottom one from below with a socket and about 12 inch extension. Thread it in starting next to the wheel. That bolt is a pain to find. "Just keep looking further back if you can't find it". Maybe have a buddy point out where it should be, from above. You can almost see it from above, but you can definitely point to where it will be.
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Old 11-13-03, 12:08 AM
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O. L. T.
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ght=p%2Fs+pump

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ght=p%2Fs+pump
Old 11-13-03, 08:32 PM
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TGRich
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Thanks Fred. I got the nut off no problem. Bolt #1 I didn't even see and bolt#3- god I don't even know how anyone could ever access that. The only way to get at it is from the top or bottom- there is only an inch or two(one click on the ratchet) of sideways space, so the main problem is getting any leverage on it. There's 10 years of use on that bolt, so it's def. on there pretty good. Any suggestions of tools to use to get the leverage?
Old 11-13-03, 09:33 PM
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Fred Smith
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Are we talking the top number 3? Unfortunately that pic has them both labelled "3"... duhhh Toyota!

I permanently have the stupid black plastic distributor covers off, so maybe that gives me more room. If I take the air cleaner off from the throttle body down, I can get a 12 point ring spanner over that top "3" bolt. Then it's a matter of keeping it straight so you don't round it, and trying to crack it. I believe I used a much bigger spanner looped over that one to get leverage. Either that or I just hit it with a hammer... can't remember. Looking at it now, maybe a 12 point socket and a long handle with no ratcheting mechanism - we call it a flex bar - would work?

The bottom "3" is a big pain in the ***. I could just get to it from under the car with a socket and a 10 or 12 inch extension, and just got the leverage to break it. As I said, threaded in from up next to the wheel. If that didn't work, I was going to have to try threading in the 24 inch ratchet handle!

If you are really having trouble cracking them, try some liquid wrench.

Last edited by Fred Smith; 11-13-03 at 09:40 PM.
Old 11-13-03, 09:46 PM
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Fred Smith
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I just realised what your picture is showing. YOU HAVE THE WRONG BOLTS CIRCLED! DO NOT REMOVE THOSE! THEY HOLD THE PUMP TOGETHER!

Look at the little pic I posted above. You need bolts going from the strut tower towards the engine. That is, parallel with the firewall. I have modified your pic. The top "3" bolt is just under the wire crap that the arrow points at. The bottom "3" bolt is under that again. Once you get the top "3", you reach further under the pump and you will feel the bottom "3". Good luck. If you like, take a photo with that wiring pulled up, and I will point out the correct bolt. To pull up the wiring, undo the bolt with the green square around it.
Attached Thumbnails 1994 SC400 power steering pump replacement gone bad-dsc00982.jpg  

Last edited by Fred Smith; 11-13-03 at 09:51 PM.
Old 11-13-03, 10:00 PM
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Yeah, I noticed the same thing too. I think I lost my point of reference when I was just looking at the picture and just got all messed up. This whole thing has been frustrating. My buddy just needs to sell the 400 and get a 300 like me
Old 11-14-03, 09:42 AM
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If you're really having problems breaking the bolts loose, like it seems impossible, there is some substance that you can spray right by the heads of bolts and itll break them loose. It comes in an orange spray can with a black top and this stuff is serious. Sprayed it onto some torque converter bolts and they were just over hand tight. Give it a try if you can't get any leverage.

James
Old 11-28-18, 08:40 AM
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Just in case anyone else has to do this stupid job. I was able to remove the front 2 bolts without taking the pulley off with some 1/2" extensions, a breaker bar, PB obviously.

3rd top bolt is fairly easy to get to from the top with regular ratchet.

That last 4th bolt, we'll call it, is the PITA...but if you get under the car, flash a light and look right by the terminal of the alternator you can see the bolt. Snake a 14mm with a flexible extension and use the breaker bar again....its a tight fit but you'll feel the bolt loosen easily.

From there it's a piece of cake.
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