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Don't you have the window sticker? Does it show on the window sticker?
What year vehicle?
I dont have the window sticker, but i do have a build sheet with the build date and a list of all factory and port installed options. It does list the tow package, it is a 2016 fsport awd.
The factory Towing Package option adds a module fed by connector Q43 - Option Connector (Trailer Towing). That factory Towing Package option gets the Tail Lamp and the Backup Lamp signals directly from the Instrument Panel Junction Block, gets the Right Turn and Left Turn directly from the Combination Meter Assembly, gets the Stop directly from the Stop Light Control ECU Assembly and gets the two 30A feeds from the Engine Room Junction Blocks 1 + 2, one fused, the other a circuit breaker.
For my 2017 NX200t...
For all electrical projects, always disconnect the battery negative terminal before beginning and connect that terminal as the last step when the project has been inspected as complete and correct.
If the trailer wiring is going to be added to replicate the OEM trailer wiring (without adding additional +12V supply wires onto the battery lug), then the existing 30A TOWING BRK breaker location is the spot for the high-current trailer feed to the black 7-Way RV blade auxiliary +12VDC trailer power feed, w/ a 30A breaker populating that location in the Engine Room Junction Block No. 2. That feed may be obtained from Instrument Panel Combination Meter connector AQ1, pin 7, w/ the thick Pink wire.
The spot to snag the power for the aftermarket trailer light module is the existing 30A TOWING fuse location in the Engine Room Junction Block No. 1. That feed may also be obtained from Instrument Panel Combination Meter connector AQ1, pin 13, w/ the Violet wire. In this case the fuse size would not need to be 30A. I would instead use the 10A fuse that comes w/ the Curt module.
The violet 7-Way RV blade reverse lamp feed (center pin) may be obtained from the Instrument Panel Junction Block Assembly, connector 4A, pin 24. That is the slightly smaller of the four large connectors on that assembly. That reverse lamp power feed is from a 5A or a 15A BKUP LP fuse (my documentation shows conflicting information), through a BK UP LP Relay in that assembly. Assuming this fuse cavity may be properly populated w/ a 15A fuse then that feed would provide sufficient current for the existing vehicle back up lamps, plus the additional trailer back up lamps.
IMO it would make sense to run a thick blue wire to the blue 7-Way RV blade electric brakes feed from the exterior connector to inside the cabin during the project, even if an electric brake module is not being added at this time. I would use 10AWG or thicker. That hidden dangling pigtail wire may be used at a later date if electric brakes are ever added.
I just ran an 8 awg from the battery to the rear of the car to take care of all the power for the curt light module and the trailer battery charging wire. I used a battery isolator for the trailer charge line. I taped into the reverse bulb positive wire in the lift gate and ran that to a relay and then to the 7 way connector. I also ran a 10awg from battery to brake controller and from there to the 7 way. It was quite the project, a lot more time consuming than i originally thought.
The violet 7-Way RV blade reverse lamp feed (center pin) may be obtained from the Instrument Panel Junction Block Assembly, connector 4A, pin 24. That is the slightly smaller of the four large connectors on that assembly. That reverse lamp power feed is from a 5A or a 15A BKUP LP fuse (my documentation shows conflicting information), through a BK UP LP Relay in that assembly. Assuming this fuse cavity may be properly populated w/ a 15A fuse then that feed would provide sufficient current for the existing vehicle back up lamps, plus the additional trailer back up lamps.
The vehicle was inspected and the factory populated the BKUP LP location w/ a 5A fuse.
The safe option would be to use that to activate a new additional relay (to provide a low fixed load on that fuse), then use the relay to switch a fused feed for the trailer back up lamps.
The lesser option would be to remove the fuse, replacing it with a DC ammeter to measure the existing current load. Make a similar measurement on the trailer back up lamp load. If the total is under 5A then all is okay.
Do not increase the fuse current rating at that location.
The violet 7-Way RV blade reverse lamp feed (center pin) may be obtained from the Instrument Panel Junction Block Assembly, connector 4A, pin 24. That is the slightly smaller of the four large connectors on that assembly. That reverse lamp power feed is from a 5A or a 15A BKUP LP fuse (my documentation shows conflicting information), through a BK UP LP Relay in that assembly. Assuming this fuse cavity may be properly populated w/ a 15A fuse then that feed would provide sufficient current for the existing vehicle back up lamps, plus the additional trailer back up lamps.
There is not a drop in trailer lamp converter that fits the NX200t that also includes support for the back up lamp feed, for either a 5-way flat or a 7-way round trailer connector. The Tekonsha 119177 converter supports left / right / stop / parking, plus also the backup, but this is only a module, without the in-line connectors specific to the vehicle.
IMO the best way for bulletproof back up lamps at the lowest effort and the best installation is to tap off the rear lamp assembly to feed a relay, then used a fused circuit through the relay contacts to feed the trailer back up lamps.
That back up lamp feed could be obtained from the Instrument Panel Junction Block Assembly, connector 4A, pin 24, but that is the only connection that would be made in this difficult-to-reach underneath the dash location.
The Instrument Panel Junction Block Assembly fans out that signal to also feed the existing back up lamps.
A much easier place to snag that connection is near the back up lamp assembly, at the rear of the vehicle. The two four-pin connectors, Y11 (left hand) and Y10 (right hand) both have that same back up lamp feed on pin 1, w/ the white insulation. Use a volt meter to verify the voltage when the back up lamp is illuminated because those connectors also have the tail lamp feed on pin 2, also w/ white insulation.
Both the Lexus website and the forums do not include a break down of what is included with the nx200t towing package. The rx350 lists, "Engine and transmission oil coolers, heavy-duty radiator and cooling fan." I called up Lexus customer support this morning and they emailed me my vehicle build sheet and verified that I do have the Tow Package on my nx. I dug deep and asking what the package includes, it took them a while asking difference people and they finally came back and said that unfortunately they do not have a break down of what is included, however, the engineer confirmed that there is a heavy duty radiator involved.
From doing some more research and looking at various Lexus replacement parts for the nx200t . It looks like an oil cooler and a transmission cooler are already on every nx200t as well as a 150 amp alternator. So this leads me to believe that the nx200t tow package essentially includes the same goodies as what is available in the rx350. With tow pacakge we can safely tow 2000lbs with a 200lb tongue weight, probably not the end of the world to tow without the "tow package," but towing something heavier, especially up in high altitudes would probably greatly benefit from the tow package.
Just thought this may be useful information for those wanting to tow a small camper with the nx200, I am planning on getting a Scamp 13'.
700 lbs tongue weight is pretty hefty. There is a general rule of what is ideal tongue weight according to towed trailer weight. Can NX200t rear suspension
afford 700lbs tongue weight? What class hitch are you talking about? You need safety margin as much as you can. Have some experience in towing? Is the
weight of trailer loaded weight? Plus passengers? I started out with a camper van and as family grew, graduated with 7300 lbs 5th wheel and Ford F250HD
Camper special Super cab carrying wife and two kids, a dog and a cat. I towed it every where without any problems. Engine never over heated in summer.
Go to your local hitch shop, talk to folks there.
With tow pacakge we can safely tow 2000lbs with a 200lb tongue weight, probably not the end of the world to tow without the "tow package," but towing something heavier, especially up in high altitudes would probably greatly benefit from the tow package.
Just thought this may be useful information for those wanting to tow a small camper with the nx200, I am planning on getting a Scamp 13'.
Originally Posted by Htony
700 lbs tongue weight is pretty hefty. There is a general rule of what is ideal tongue weight according to towed trailer weight. Can NX200t rear suspension
afford 700lbs tongue weight?
Here is the final product, wired up and working perfectly. I'm picking up the scamp next week, the 100 lb tongue weight is without any options, fully loaded its 200lbs.
I just ran an 8 awg from the battery to the rear of the car to take care of all the power for the curt light module and the trailer battery charging wire. I used a battery isolator for the trailer charge line. I taped into the reverse bulb positive wire in the lift gate and ran that to a relay and then to the 7 way connector. I also ran a 10awg from battery to brake controller and from there to the 7 way. It was quite the project, a lot more time consuming than i originally thought.
This all looks great.
When I was doing mine I was unable to get wiring to run through the firewall at that location.
How did you get your wires through the firewall as is shown? Was a new hole drilled?
When I was doing mine I was unable to get wiring to run through the firewall at that location.
How did you get your wires through the firewall as is shown? Was a new hole drilled?
Once you take off the wipers and wiper motor, and the plastic cover pieces, and then the metal cover pieces and the strut tower bar, you will see a large grommet where the engine harness goes through the firewall into the car. There is a dongle sticking out there that you have to cut in order to get new wires through the grommet, its off to the side from the main harness. The rubber will stretch enough to accept an 8awg wire, just use plenty of lubrication on the wire so it doesn't tear the grommet while you pulling it through.
I just talked with a Lexus Service dept. Purchased a certified Nx200t and wanted to make sure I could tow 2000 lbs. He checked the vin and said I don't have a tow package and he wasn't sure a small trailer could be pulled (Barefoot from Nucamp). I would like some feedback from those in the know. Thx
I just talked with a Lexus Service dept. Purchased a certified Nx200t and wanted to make sure I could tow 2000 lbs. He checked the vin and said I don't have a tow package and he wasn't sure a small trailer could be pulled (Barefoot from Nucamp). I would like some feedback from those in the know. Thx
I have towed my scamp 13 (~1,800-2,000lbs) thousands of miles with mine, including mountains and it doesn't even break a sweat. Seeing as it's mostly a cooling upgrade, I would say you will be fine without it. I would just watch the temp gauge if going up steep inclines when it's hot out. I had to add airbag helper springs to deal with ~200lb tongue weight as the rear was sagging too much and I was getting constantly high beamed by oncoming traffic. No issues with that since I put in the airbags. I have Firestone coil-rite bags meant for RAV4.
03-20-18, 04:17 PM
