DIY oil change for 2015 NX200t
12-19-17, 10:52 AM
#31
Driver School Candidate
Sorry for reviving and old thread, but my '15 IS took like 6.5 qts of oil. I think some people forget that the oil filter and housing can hold a bit of oil too, so it doesn't surprise me that someone found that it took 6 qts of oil after a complete drain. I'd trust the dipstick.
12-21-17, 09:34 AM
#32
Driver School Candidate
Many thanks..... Used your info to change my oil for the first time after dealer's first free. Unfortunately I had to use a 3 foot pipe off my ratchet to break loose my filter assembly. No kidding..... It is stamped right on the bottom of assembly 25 pds of torque so don't know what the problem was. Just glad it came without breaking. Mine is made of plastic on my 2016 NX also my daughter 2016 RX it's plastic also. Anyway great post and will be changing mine from now on......
01-13-18, 02:30 AM
#35
So one thing that might help is getting a fumoto valve. I have them on every one of our vehicles (Subie, Toyota, Mercedes, Ford, and both my Triumph motorcycles). It's a brass ball valve that you simply turn the lever to drain the oil. Zero mess.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
They have different styles to choose from depending on location. Being on the bottom of the pan makes it easy. The longest one has been on my car is my 05' STi. So we are talking 12 years and it still functions like it did from day one when I purchased it. Zero leaks, drips or anything of that nature. Zero worry about the possibly of stripping out the pan bolt OR having someone else strip it out and then you find out at a later time...etc.
-Nigel
http://www.fumotousa.com/
They have different styles to choose from depending on location. Being on the bottom of the pan makes it easy. The longest one has been on my car is my 05' STi. So we are talking 12 years and it still functions like it did from day one when I purchased it. Zero leaks, drips or anything of that nature. Zero worry about the possibly of stripping out the pan bolt OR having someone else strip it out and then you find out at a later time...etc.
-Nigel
01-15-18, 03:50 AM
#36
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Hi guys, I'm from Italy and I would like to do at home the oil and filter change at the 30.000 km. My car, Lexus NX 300H 4WD, is completely covered underneath, I dont know which parts/screws I have to take away in order to get to nthe filetr and the oil plug. From the very good post from Savage I see that your cars are not equipped with these protections below ? Anybody can help me to tell what parts must be disassembled ? Could you also give me the code of the filter to be used in my Lexus? There are many kinds, with different sizes and the website where I usually buy spare parts says thery are all ( ?? ) good for my Lexus... Tks !
05-27-18, 03:29 PM
#38
Driver School Candidate
Disappointed that a quality car makes such a complicated oil change apparatus. What is superior about a paper filter replacement with O rings, special cap, etc to remove, over a standard cartridge filter? I have Mazda, Kia, Honda and Lexus, and only Lexus uses this stupid system.
08-16-18, 07:41 AM
#39
I don't think OP's question about oil capacity was answered.
it's 5.2 qrts with filter. 4.9 you see online is liters.
That's a lot of oil for 4 cyl engine but - turbo is also lubricated by it, so it makes sense.
Center 1/4 is not for filter removal. It's for filter oil drain.
I use basic few bucks 3 prong wrench, works fine on various filters:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Adjustable-2-Way-3-Jaw-Oil-Filter-Wrench-with-3-Jaw-Socket-2-1-2-To-3-7-8-Inch-Remover-Tool-Black/291426072?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227241120989&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=286628845406&wl4=pla-485911454081&wl5=9033304&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=291426072&wl13=&veh=sem
DO NOT use any tools to tighten filter housing, or you may not be able to remove it next time. Make sure your housing is cast aluminum, not brittle plastic. They are sold in parts stores, just in case.
it's 5.2 qrts with filter. 4.9 you see online is liters.
That's a lot of oil for 4 cyl engine but - turbo is also lubricated by it, so it makes sense.
Center 1/4 is not for filter removal. It's for filter oil drain.
I use basic few bucks 3 prong wrench, works fine on various filters:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Adjustable-2-Way-3-Jaw-Oil-Filter-Wrench-with-3-Jaw-Socket-2-1-2-To-3-7-8-Inch-Remover-Tool-Black/291426072?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227241120989&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=286628845406&wl4=pla-485911454081&wl5=9033304&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=291426072&wl13=&veh=sem
DO NOT use any tools to tighten filter housing, or you may not be able to remove it next time. Make sure your housing is cast aluminum, not brittle plastic. They are sold in parts stores, just in case.
Last edited by ukrkoz; 08-16-18 at 07:49 AM.
08-16-18, 08:46 PM
#40
OK, here's aftermath of my first DIY oil change on 2015 NX.
Last one was done by Toyota of Renton, where vehicle was purchased.
1. Cheapskates. Oil filter housing, or "coverp" is PLASTIC.
2. Previous technician apparently used power tools on filter cover, as nothing I had in my garages will unscrew it. Had to go to O'Reiley and actually buy dedicated cap wrench, just like one described by OP. It took a LOT of torque to uindo that cap. Which I get it, plastic does that. Something like it swells inside or has too much friction. Anyway, it didn't break, that's what matters.
3. Replaced it with Dorman cast aluminum cap right away. PN 917-016CD
4. Drain plug washer is plastic again, not copper or aluminum. Replaced that with copper one too.
5. Hand torqued cover in place.
Of course, with all the driving and buying and then trying to locate cover on the shelf, simple 20 min job turned into 2 hr adventure.
Last one was done by Toyota of Renton, where vehicle was purchased.
1. Cheapskates. Oil filter housing, or "coverp" is PLASTIC.
2. Previous technician apparently used power tools on filter cover, as nothing I had in my garages will unscrew it. Had to go to O'Reiley and actually buy dedicated cap wrench, just like one described by OP. It took a LOT of torque to uindo that cap. Which I get it, plastic does that. Something like it swells inside or has too much friction. Anyway, it didn't break, that's what matters.
3. Replaced it with Dorman cast aluminum cap right away. PN 917-016CD
4. Drain plug washer is plastic again, not copper or aluminum. Replaced that with copper one too.
5. Hand torqued cover in place.
Of course, with all the driving and buying and then trying to locate cover on the shelf, simple 20 min job turned into 2 hr adventure.
11-18-18, 03:45 PM
#43
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