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DIY oil change for 2015 NX200t

 
Old 02-23-16, 03:17 PM
  #16  
Uglier
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Thanks for the writeup but I have run into several problems doing this today.
1. There is no washer under the oil drain plug and no replacement washer of appropriate size with the oil filter kit, are you sure you had one? Nor is there a groove for an o-ring type washer to go in.
2. I am trying to remove the filter cap with the proper 65mm socket. The first one I got ($6) broke right off, cheap Chinese junk. I found an American one for $9, seems good, but I am pulling with all my might with a 1 ft long wrench and it does not budge. There is a metal tab that has to be pushed aside to let it rotate, but I have not moved it enough (any) to engage the tab. I'm afraid the plastic will break if I pull any harder. It is not reverse threads is it? Yes I know lefty loosey righty tighty,
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Old 02-23-16, 03:24 PM
  #17  
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Sorry on second look there was a washer, looked like part of the plug but came loose with a hammer tap. So only problem 2 stands.
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Old 02-23-16, 03:30 PM
  #18  
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Default Why prime a turbo?

I have owned Peugeot Turbos since 1987 and changed oil myself all the way along, never heard of this. When the engine is idling the turbo is barely spinning (if at all) so I don't see how it could be an issue. My first one lasted 250k and was running fine still when I scrapped it for the 2009 $4500 government clunker rebate, it was rusty anyway.

Originally Posted by rayzer57 View Post
Excellent detail and illustrations. Question: Does anyone remember the 80s when we had to prime the engine that were equipped with turbos. "Priming" was the process where after you changed the oil, you cranked the engine over until you registered oil pressure. When you change the engine oil and do not prime the engine, it takes about 15 seconds before the oil gets circulated, fills the oil filter, and reaches the turbo bearings. In essence, I hate the idea of the turbo spinning without oil pressure for 15 seconds or so with only the residual oil for the past oil. Priming was a standard practice for many manufacturers but it seems that some manufactures have done away with this simple practice.

I am just wondering if anyone who does their own oil changes primes their engine (after an oil change) before they start their engine. Or is their something in todays engines / turbos where that is no longer required. Lexus dealerships are not aware of this practice for a couple of reasons. One, most are very young mechanics and don't remember the good old days, and two, turbos are new to the Lexus mechanics (NX was the first new engine to Lexus that uses turbos) and according to the Lexus mechanic training, it is not required. I am just looking for a good technical reason why it is not required, or should it be?
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Old 02-23-16, 04:06 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Uglier View Post
2. I am trying to remove the filter cap with the proper 65mm socket. The first one I got ($6) broke right off, cheap Chinese junk. I found an American one for $9, seems good, but I am pulling with all my might with a 1 ft long wrench and it does not budge. There is a metal tab that has to be pushed aside to let it rotate, but I have not moved it enough (any) to engage the tab. I'm afraid the plastic will break if I pull any harder. It is not reverse threads is it? Yes I know lefty loosey righty tighty,
This is the same filter and filter housing that was used on the 2009 Venza we had. I use the socket that I purchased from Toyota, the cheap one I had would slip. The filter housing is very hard to start, but I was always able to get it to turn. I never moved the metal tang, it just slips past the housing. We had that car for 120K miles and I changed the oil every 5K miles. It never got easier to turn. I've only changed the oil once on th NX, it was also very hard to turn.
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Old 02-23-16, 04:23 PM
  #20  
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Wow, if that's the way its always going to be it shows Toyota/Lexus engineering is pretty junky. (First Japanese car I've worked on in 30 years). No comparison to the German/Swedish/French cars I have owned. Based on this I'll go ahead and put the cheater bar on it tomorrow. Thanks so much for your response! We'll see if anyone else has anything different to say. Dave


Originally Posted by olgzr View Post
This is the same filter and filter housing that was used on the 2009 Venza we had. I use the socket that I purchased from Toyota, the cheap one I had would slip. The filter housing is very hard to start, but I was always able to get it to turn. I never moved the metal tang, it just slips past the housing. We had that car for 120K miles and I changed the oil every 5K miles. It never got easier to turn. I've only changed the oil once on th NX, it was also very hard to turn.
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Old 02-23-16, 04:30 PM
  #21  
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Do verify you you are turning it the correct way, when you are on your back under the car, it's easy to accidentally turn it the wrong way.
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Old 02-23-16, 04:58 PM
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I'm sure I'm going the right way. Not on my back, I have a lift.

Originally Posted by olgzr View Post
Do verify you you are turning it the correct way, when you are on your back under the car, it's easy to accidentally turn it the wrong way.
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Old 02-23-16, 10:37 PM
  #23  
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Default DYI oil change

Thank you so much for posting this oil change steps w/ pics! Always nice to know, even if I won't be doing mine for some time, b/c my vehicle is so new & I don't drive that many miles, & the first 2 service trips to the Lexus dealer is free. I've been looking for pictures & info about the location and how the filter assy. comes off and hadn't found much help! I will be doing this eventually!
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Old 02-24-16, 01:33 PM
  #24  
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Default Additional Tips for Oil Change

OK here's some final tips to add to Savage's great writeup above

1. Get a solid oil cap remover like Savage shows, not a sheet metal one like they sell at AutoZone etc. They just slip or break. The right one cost $29 at NAPA.

2. Once I had the right cap remover the cap came off fine with a 4 foot cheater bar. Don't expect it to come off with just a socket wrench. Its weird how it went back to the same position after the filter change with very little effort.

3. Savage states his service guy said the oil capacity is 5.2 quarts, I put in 5 from a new Mobil 1 jug and drove the car to get it in the filter and then it was a full quart low so added another quart. Real capacity of mine is 6 quarts. Although note I do drain the oil very thoroughly, I get oil full hot on the highway then let it drip overnight.

4. If you have a lift and the lift is up do not walk straight into the steel ramp. I have a gouge and a bruise an inch under my eye. Finally put some high viz plastic over it. Ouch.

Originally Posted by Uglier View Post
I'm sure I'm going the right way. Not on my back, I have a lift.
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Old 02-24-16, 05:43 PM
  #25  
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Check your owners manual I believe it says 5.2 qts.
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Old 02-24-16, 05:45 PM
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Yes it does say 5.2 quarts that's why I was pointing out its wrong (unless the dipstick is wrong)
Originally Posted by brook41 View Post
Check your owners manual I believe it says 5.2 qts.
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Old 02-24-16, 09:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Uglier View Post

3. Savage states his service guy said the oil capacity is 5.2 quarts, I put in 5 from a new Mobil 1 jug and drove the car to get it in the filter and then it was a full quart low so added another quart. Real capacity of mine is 6 quarts. Although note I do drain the oil very thoroughly, I get oil full hot on the highway then let it drip overnight.
Straight from the owner's manual:
The engine oil capacity is a reference quantity to be used when changing the engine oil. Warm up the engine and turn off the engine, wait more than 5 minutes, and check the oil level on the dipstick


The oil level would be wrong if you turn off the engine and check the level right away.
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Old 02-25-16, 04:38 AM
  #28  
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I drove it to Walmart and back, about 15 minutes total, then waited another 15 minutes.
Originally Posted by acheuk View Post
Straight from the owner's manual:
The engine oil capacity is a reference quantity to be used when changing the engine oil. Warm up the engine and turn off the engine, wait more than 5 minutes, and check the oil level on the dipstick


The oil level would be wrong if you turn off the engine and check the level right away.

Last edited by Uglier; 02-25-16 at 04:39 AM. Reason: did not finish
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Old 12-18-16, 04:11 AM
  #29  
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Nice write up thank you
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Old 08-01-17, 02:21 PM
  #30  
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Nice Pic's..... Many thanks..... Was waiting for a NX-F Sport oil change. I just got mine replaced which was a one time only here in Las Vegas. Looking forward to replacing my own soon. Just don't like the entry level personal who do just oil changes and tire rotations. All four of my rims have nicks in them because of someone must be blind removing or re-installing the lug nuts. I cringe at the thought of a dry re-start after oil change and revving up the engine. I used to crank my Camaro until the oil light turned off before putting the fire to it. So from now on I'll be doing it myself. Thanks again......
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