Excellent detail and illustrations. Question: Does anyone remember the 80s when we had to prime the engine that were equipped with turbos. "Priming" was the process where after you changed the oil, you cranked the engine over until you registered oil pressure. When you change the engine oil and do not prime the engine, it takes about 15 seconds before the oil gets circulated, fills the oil filter, and reaches the turbo bearings. In essence, I hate the idea of the turbo spinning without oil pressure for 15 seconds or so with only the residual oil for the past oil. Priming was a standard practice for many manufacturers but it seems that some manufactures have done away with this simple practice.

I am just wondering if anyone who does their own oil changes primes their engine (after an oil change) before they start their engine. Or is their something in todays engines / turbos where that is no longer required. Lexus dealerships are not aware of this practice for a couple of reasons. One, most are very young mechanics and don't remember the good old days, and two, turbos are new to the Lexus mechanics (NX was the first new engine to Lexus that uses turbos) and according to the Lexus mechanic training, it is not required. I am just looking for a good technical reason why it is not required, or should it be?

Does anyone have a link or part number for the Oil filter socket special tool? I'd like to buy one before my first oil change but not sure which to get.

Will this one from AutoZone work?


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...26ed38e956.jpg

Thanks for the writeup but I have run into several problems doing this today.
1. There is no washer under the oil drain plug and no replacement washer of appropriate size with the oil filter kit, are you sure you had one? Nor is there a groove for an o-ring type washer to go in.
2. I am trying to remove the filter cap with the proper 65mm socket. The first one I got ($6) broke right off, cheap Chinese junk. I found an American one for $9, seems good, but I am pulling with all my might with a 1 ft long wrench and it does not budge. There is a metal tab that has to be pushed aside to let it rotate, but I have not moved it enough (any) to engage the tab. I'm afraid the plastic will break if I pull any harder. It is not reverse threads is it? Yes I know lefty loosey righty tighty,

Sorry on second look there was a washer, looked like part of the plug but came loose with a hammer tap. So only problem 2 stands.

Why prime a turbo?
 

I have owned Peugeot Turbos since 1987 and changed oil myself all the way along, never heard of this. When the engine is idling the turbo is barely spinning (if at all) so I don't see how it could be an issue. My first one lasted 250k and was running fine still when I scrapped it for the 2009 $4500 government clunker rebate, it was rusty anyway.

This is the same filter and filter housing that was used on the 2009 Venza we had. I use the socket that I purchased from Toyota, the cheap one I had would slip. The filter housing is very hard to start, but I was always able to get it to turn. I never moved the metal tang, it just slips past the housing. We had that car for 120K miles and I changed the oil every 5K miles. It never got easier to turn. I've only changed the oil once on th NX, it was also very hard to turn.

Wow, if that's the way its always going to be it shows Toyota/Lexus engineering is pretty junky. (First Japanese car I've worked on in 30 years). No comparison to the German/Swedish/French cars I have owned. Based on this I'll go ahead and put the cheater bar on it tomorrow. Thanks so much for your response! We'll see if anyone else has anything different to say. Dave

Do verify you you are turning it the correct way, when you are on your back under the car, it's easy to accidentally turn it the wrong way.

I'm sure I'm going the right way. Not on my back, I have a lift.

DYI oil change
 

Thank you so much for posting this oil change steps w/ pics! Always nice to know, even if I won't be doing mine for some time, b/c my vehicle is so new & I don't drive that many miles, & the first 2 service trips to the Lexus dealer is free. I've been looking for pictures & info about the location and how the filter assy. comes off and hadn't found much help! I will be doing this eventually! :cool:

Additional Tips for Oil Change
 

OK here's some final tips to add to Savage's great writeup above

1. Get a solid oil cap remover like Savage shows, not a sheet metal one like they sell at AutoZone etc. They just slip or break. The right one cost $29 at NAPA.

2. Once I had the right cap remover the cap came off fine with a 4 foot cheater bar. Don't expect it to come off with just a socket wrench. Its weird how it went back to the same position after the filter change with very little effort.

3. Savage states his service guy said the oil capacity is 5.2 quarts, I put in 5 from a new Mobil 1 jug and drove the car to get it in the filter and then it was a full quart low so added another quart. Real capacity of mine is 6 quarts. Although note I do drain the oil very thoroughly, I get oil full hot on the highway then let it drip overnight.

4. If you have a lift and the lift is up do not walk straight into the steel ramp. I have a gouge and a bruise an inch under my eye. Finally put some high viz plastic over it. Ouch.:eek2:

Check your owners manual I believe it says 5.2 qts.

Yes it does say 5.2 quarts that's why I was pointing out its wrong (unless the dipstick is wrong)

Straight from the owner's manual:
The engine oil capacity is a reference quantity to be used when changing the engine oil. Warm up the engine and turn off the engine, wait more than 5 minutes, and check the oil level on the dipstick


The oil level would be wrong if you turn off the engine and check the level right away.