What coilovers are you running. I understand you experienced this before the coilover install however if it has compression and rebound adjustments you may be able to dial it in. Also look into you inner and outer tie rods. If you feel the steering is loose you may have play in the rods. Also measure the distance from the front wheel to the bumper see if there is a big gap on either side.

Your problem may be induced by the coilovers. Let me know

 

I'm running Stance GR. I have no idea what you mean by dialing in. The tech mentioned tie rods when I asked about the bump steer. He said they were out of position because of the lower stance but didn't mention if thy were worn or not. How could I check myself? Thanks for the help.

 

O.k

Replace the inner and outer tie rods. Take your car to a high performance shop. They can adjust your compression and rebound settings on the coilovers. Your coilovers are set too stiff which is causing your bump steer issue.

Also after you have it set get a 4 wheel alignment. This will alleviate your concern.

 

Hopefully it will. So this stiffness goes beyond the dampening adjustment capability already built into the coilover. They aren't set all the way soft, but the problem is still there either way.

Should I get aftermarket rods longer than stock or just OEM. I read somewhere that longer rods help bumpsteer because it distances the components a little further.

 

Stick with o.e.m. What rims are you running ? If you are running a deep or wide staggered offset it will pose problems as well. You have to check if the suspension has both rebound and compression adjustments. You may only be adjusting one end of the component. What model GR do you have? There is GR Pro, GR+ etc...

 

My wheels are stock at the moment. The coils are GR+

 

http://stance-usa.com/sus/products/c...us#GR+Plus-top

It has 15 way adjustability. If you have gone past that it would have damaged the coilover. These might be too rough for your car. Have you thought about Tein Comfort sport coilovers? It will give you that low stance and o.e luxury ride.

You can also call Stance and find out if you can get a softer spring then what is on the coilover now.

Stance,Megan racing, Bc racing, Ksport are all made in china. Non have been R&D as thorouhly as the Japanese,German coilovers such as Tein,Tanabe,Ohlins,Kw

 

I considered Tein CS and these and this is what i ended up with

I still dont understand how i could have this problem before and after i put the coils on? Anyway I ordered tie rods. If they don't work out, time to move onto something else.

 

You probably ended up with the same problem because your stock setup your shocks were most likely blown, and on your new coilover setup the suspension was not dialed in causing it too feel the same. Since your out in CA you can def find some high performance speed shops to help you out. Have them raise the spring perch and adjust the dampening and get a 4 wheel alignment done after you install the tie rods. Good luck and keep me posted.

 

98 gs300..my hood is jammed shut! the cable i know for a fact is stretched but it seems like it had something to do with the primary lock.

ive tried to pull the hood cable from both inside the car and in the fender.
i tried to unbolt the latch from in between the grills but it seems like theres a support beam running across it.
i looked underneath but couldn't figure a way to do it..

what other way is there to do this?

If there is any techs or handy people willing to tackle this im willing to pay dmv area.. ellicot city to be exact.

 

These locks get jammed up quite often from both the lock end and the cable end. Spray some penetrating oil such as Pb blaster,wd40 inside to the lock and hook up wise grips to the cable and try pulling on it. If that dont work you may need to remove the grill forcefully to get in there to un bolt it.

 

Had the car in for the 20k service @ 20,500 and the techs say my rear rotors are below min spec but the rear pads are near new. What gives? I've always said it sounds like my rear brakes seem to squek more then the fronts.

Front pads they say need changing soon and rotors....this I knew.

 

I see that you have an IS-F. In that case the pads are very aggressive and they end up eating up the rotor pretty bad. They can resurface your rotors however I would see how bad they are before doing that. If they can be go ahead and do it. Your next time around I would recommend getting aftermarket rotors and hawk hps pads they are in testing phase and will be released soon.

 

Thanks for the info. I just thought it's weird for rotors to go thin and wear so bad and the pads be close to new.

 

I just wanted to close the loop on this in case someone does a search for this issue. It turns out that I had a plugged radiator. The dealer wanted $1,300 to replace. I bought an aftermaket radiator for around $160 which fit perfectly, and completely fixed the problemm - I now have heat.