Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
I am posting this as a Technical help thread for NELOC Lexus owners. I am in no way advertising a business or soliciting work. I am only on here to offering to help diagnose problems you may be having with your Lexus vehicles to get a jump on your repairs.
You can post your questions and/or info on your vehicles and I'll reply to them here!
You can post your questions and/or info on your vehicles and I'll reply to them here!
HI I have:
Lexus 2008 rx 350 can i fit 3 for triplets car seat name: peg perergo viaggio 30-30 car seats as well as peg perergo triplet sw stroller
folde up in the back?
thank you
Hi, I have a couple of questions. I have a 1997 Lexus SC 400, I have recently purchased it, and wanted to add an electronic start with keyless entry. I had put one on a toyota before, and it worked great, and since this car didn't come with the keyless entry remote, I am killing 2 birds with one stone.
Now, for the problems... First, when I was replacing the under panel, the hood release seems to have pulled out, and now the hood is not latching completely... How do I go about fixing this problem? It sounds as if it is loose in the fender.
My second question involves wiring. I have successfully installed the electronic starter, and had success with the trunk entry. However, the keyless entry part... has been quit a quandry.... According to the wiring diagram, the wires I need to connect to is Green with a white line, and Green with a yellow line. I was looking under the drivers side, and after testing several wires, thought I had found the right 2 wires.. however it didn't work, and not long afterwards the drivers side door quit locking all together. I have checked the 2 fuses that was listed in the book and everything looked fine, and the passenger door works, when locking on the drivers side. Any thoughts as to what may have happened... Possible fuse locations to check?
Also, on the passenger side, where do you start removing, I couldn't find any screws.. underneath at the floorboard or anywhere, for that matter. I need to access the wires in the kick panel, to hook up the keyless entry.
Thank You, any help is greatly appreciated.
Now, for the problems... First, when I was replacing the under panel, the hood release seems to have pulled out, and now the hood is not latching completely... How do I go about fixing this problem? It sounds as if it is loose in the fender.
My second question involves wiring. I have successfully installed the electronic starter, and had success with the trunk entry. However, the keyless entry part... has been quit a quandry.... According to the wiring diagram, the wires I need to connect to is Green with a white line, and Green with a yellow line. I was looking under the drivers side, and after testing several wires, thought I had found the right 2 wires.. however it didn't work, and not long afterwards the drivers side door quit locking all together. I have checked the 2 fuses that was listed in the book and everything looked fine, and the passenger door works, when locking on the drivers side. Any thoughts as to what may have happened... Possible fuse locations to check?
Also, on the passenger side, where do you start removing, I couldn't find any screws.. underneath at the floorboard or anywhere, for that matter. I need to access the wires in the kick panel, to hook up the keyless entry.
Thank You, any help is greatly appreciated.
hey everyone looking for a little help i know that there is probably a thread about going coil packs on a 2jzge but for some reason i can not find it. but any way i was wondering if someone could help me out and tell me what it is that i need to go distributerless system for im building up the 2jzge for around 400 to 500 hrs and wanna go biger turbo
Hi,
I'm new to the forum, but have owned my '98 ES300 for the last ten years. LOVE the car. No comparison to the Toyota Camry I had before in regards to smooth driving. I have one problem that will not stop coming back and I may have to part ways with the car if I can't figure this out. Whenever it is really warm and humid (like a warm front is going through the area), the car will smell like gas (after starting it). The smell is in the cabin. I have not been able to pinpoint an area under the hood. I replaced ALL of the o-rings/gaskets at each end of the fuel injectors about 4 months ago and it has been great until the other day when it warmed up to 80 and was very humid outside last Thursday afternoon. Smelled it within 5 minutes of starting. Car runs great, gets good mileage, no check engine light. Could this have something to do with the charcoal canister, or something called an "evap canister"? These may be the same thing. I replaced the charcoal canister in 2003 when the check engine light kept coming on, but the car never smelled like gas back then. Now, the light is not on, but the smell is there. The problem is that it never happens in the morning (after it has cooled off overnight outside) and it usually happens after 6pm when I'm leaving work and all the repair shops are closed. I'm 175 miles from a Lexus dealer, so if I take it there I'll have to leave it for a week or so. And it probably won't happen again until it consistently warms up and the humidity weather switch turns on here in the south. Toyota dealer looked at the three times. First time, did quite a bit of work for what they said were 2 small oil leaks (it never smelled like oil to me). 2nd and 3rd times couldn't find anything. The smell is so strong I'm afraid to park in the garage when it occurs. Otherwise, car is still fabulous and if I didn't have this problem I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. I'm about to give up a buy a new car, but I know I won't like it as much as I've loved this one. Thanks for any help on this.
I'm new to the forum, but have owned my '98 ES300 for the last ten years. LOVE the car. No comparison to the Toyota Camry I had before in regards to smooth driving. I have one problem that will not stop coming back and I may have to part ways with the car if I can't figure this out. Whenever it is really warm and humid (like a warm front is going through the area), the car will smell like gas (after starting it). The smell is in the cabin. I have not been able to pinpoint an area under the hood. I replaced ALL of the o-rings/gaskets at each end of the fuel injectors about 4 months ago and it has been great until the other day when it warmed up to 80 and was very humid outside last Thursday afternoon. Smelled it within 5 minutes of starting. Car runs great, gets good mileage, no check engine light. Could this have something to do with the charcoal canister, or something called an "evap canister"? These may be the same thing. I replaced the charcoal canister in 2003 when the check engine light kept coming on, but the car never smelled like gas back then. Now, the light is not on, but the smell is there. The problem is that it never happens in the morning (after it has cooled off overnight outside) and it usually happens after 6pm when I'm leaving work and all the repair shops are closed. I'm 175 miles from a Lexus dealer, so if I take it there I'll have to leave it for a week or so. And it probably won't happen again until it consistently warms up and the humidity weather switch turns on here in the south. Toyota dealer looked at the three times. First time, did quite a bit of work for what they said were 2 small oil leaks (it never smelled like oil to me). 2nd and 3rd times couldn't find anything. The smell is so strong I'm afraid to park in the garage when it occurs. Otherwise, car is still fabulous and if I didn't have this problem I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country. I'm about to give up a buy a new car, but I know I won't like it as much as I've loved this one. Thanks for any help on this.
HI everyone. I need a little help here. After i lowered my car, my abs and vsc light came on. I tried resetting my car by disconnecting my battery but its still on. My check engine light also came on a few days after that. Any help please would be greatly appreciated,
hi i was just wondering if the undercarriage of the 2003 es300 is made good for corrosion on salty roads is it all made pretty much rust proof underneath. how did lexus do with the 2003 in this aspect?
I am a newbie to the lexus game and I just purchased a 99 GS 300. When I was driving home I noticed the rpms were at 4,000 at 70mph and didn't think that was normal. It looks like it will not shift into overdrive. All there other gears shift smooth and fine. I changed the transmission fluid and does the same thing. I do have CEL but it is P0446 Evap Error. I also noticed the gauge cluster has a M for m mode witch my car is not equiped with and I was wondering if the wrong gauge cluster would be causing it not to shift into overdrive. I wouldnt think the cluster would cause it but im not sure. Can anybody give me some advice.
Thanks
Thanks
Having engine misfire. scanner pulled codes p300, p305, p307. got new plugs and wires. after the p300 i changed the cap and rotor hoping at least that code would go away but no luck. I pulled pug 5 and found it was black and this was about a month old plug, the wire was also slightly burned. I also pulled plug 7 and it was clean white. What might this indicate?
Hey Tach_Motor
I recently jumped my car and ran into a few issues, one being gas pedal pressed to the floor but no action... ended up being a fuse.... Now, all warning signals are on my dash.... is there a fuse or fuses that fix or is there a special fix to remove these signals?
Thanks for all of your help! Motown Girl
I recently jumped my car and ran into a few issues, one being gas pedal pressed to the floor but no action... ended up being a fuse.... Now, all warning signals are on my dash.... is there a fuse or fuses that fix or is there a special fix to remove these signals?
Thanks for all of your help! Motown Girl
Hey guys this is the problem that I'm having now; my car was parked for 3 days, and the only thing that I did was install a new XS3400 battery & the right wheel bearing. When I took it for a drive, I noticed it wasn't shifting correctly. (shifts too soon) 1st to 2nd is about 5 mph or less than 2000 rpm. When I put the car on e-shift the lowest that I can go is to 3rd gear. If I do it manually and put the car on L it seems that is shifting from 1st to 2nd but when I go into 3rd it doesn't anything. The transmission was done about a month ago by Swift Racing Technology, never had a problem with it until now. I took it to a local transmission performing shop and they said that all the gears are there and they're shifting but there is something that is making the transmission shift too soon. The only solution that they gave me was to take it to the Lexus dealer and have them re-flash my ECU, because I might have touched a cable when I put the new battery in. If any of you know or might have experienced something like this, please give a suggestion on what it can be or what can be done to fix this....Thank you
Hi,
I had my dream car until about 15 months ago. 1998 ES300, still drives like new, looks great, etc. For the last 15 months I have been trying to have a problem corrected with a strong fuel smell (not the rotten egg smell, this is definitely fuel) coming into the cabin through the air conditioning vents, but ONLY when I leave work after 6pm and it is at least 80 degrees outside. Have had the car to 3 shops including Toyota at least 7 times and no one could find the problem. Toyota ripped me off by claiming it was related to 2 minor oil leaks and charged a ton of money to fix those. Car had never lost oil and still doesn't. I finally instructed a mechanic to change all 12 of the fuel injector gaskets hoping that was it. Car ran fine 3 months until a warm front came through, then it happened again. Even while it is smelling though, the car is running smooth. 3 weeks ago I replaced the charcoal/evap canister and did a fuel induction service. Again, car ran great even in hot weather for 3 weeks then tonight a strong smell of gas flooded the cabin within 5 minutes of starting the car. First noticed when I had to stop moving. So, I tried switching to recirclate air, and that did help some, but did not eliminate it. Then switched back to outside air and it came in strong again. Car still runs great and smooth. Starts immediately (no delay) and I had them check fuel pressure last time (no problem). All I can think of is a purge valve that might be sticking sporadically. But that is another guess. About to give up. Any ideas? It is definitely not a burnt oil smell, but a fuel smell. The smell is stronger of course when stopped at a red light (and idling) but I believe that is just because I can't get a breeze to blow the smell back. It may be that the leak is under the car and it just comes up into the manifold when the car is sitting still. I fully expect it to run perfectly okay in the morning and at lunch tomorrow. It never does it during the early/middle of the day when I could take it to a mechanic, only in the evening when everyone is closed. I left it at the shop 5 days last time and he could not get it to happen. Was hoping the canister was it. Am now devastated as I've been chasing this over a year. Thank you.
I had my dream car until about 15 months ago. 1998 ES300, still drives like new, looks great, etc. For the last 15 months I have been trying to have a problem corrected with a strong fuel smell (not the rotten egg smell, this is definitely fuel) coming into the cabin through the air conditioning vents, but ONLY when I leave work after 6pm and it is at least 80 degrees outside. Have had the car to 3 shops including Toyota at least 7 times and no one could find the problem. Toyota ripped me off by claiming it was related to 2 minor oil leaks and charged a ton of money to fix those. Car had never lost oil and still doesn't. I finally instructed a mechanic to change all 12 of the fuel injector gaskets hoping that was it. Car ran fine 3 months until a warm front came through, then it happened again. Even while it is smelling though, the car is running smooth. 3 weeks ago I replaced the charcoal/evap canister and did a fuel induction service. Again, car ran great even in hot weather for 3 weeks then tonight a strong smell of gas flooded the cabin within 5 minutes of starting the car. First noticed when I had to stop moving. So, I tried switching to recirclate air, and that did help some, but did not eliminate it. Then switched back to outside air and it came in strong again. Car still runs great and smooth. Starts immediately (no delay) and I had them check fuel pressure last time (no problem). All I can think of is a purge valve that might be sticking sporadically. But that is another guess. About to give up. Any ideas? It is definitely not a burnt oil smell, but a fuel smell. The smell is stronger of course when stopped at a red light (and idling) but I believe that is just because I can't get a breeze to blow the smell back. It may be that the leak is under the car and it just comes up into the manifold when the car is sitting still. I fully expect it to run perfectly okay in the morning and at lunch tomorrow. It never does it during the early/middle of the day when I could take it to a mechanic, only in the evening when everyone is closed. I left it at the shop 5 days last time and he could not get it to happen. Was hoping the canister was it. Am now devastated as I've been chasing this over a year. Thank you.


