Thanks for the tips everyone.

 

Any chance you have the Torque specs for the bolts on the brakes for when we reinstall? Performing the install after work today.

Thanks!

 

I do not but I can't imagine on the bolt for the caliper to the bracket that you need to be that specific. Just make sure you get them as tight as you can within reason. Do not go crazy tightening them down.

 

Exactly what Bernie wrote.

 

Stay safe out there everyone. Its looking really bad!!

 

TACH_MOTOR hi my name is chris. I have an ls400 1991 - here is my problem code 13 and 31. symptoms car has no lo end power and then at a certain point takes off like a bat outta h!!!. please help p.s. if i rev the car to 3200 rpms and hold it it will missfire all day long but only in that spot

 

Here are the areas I would look at first. Code 31. Is your (Air flow meter signal) I would remove and clean out yoru maf sensor. Use this maf cleaner.

http://www.autobarn.net/maairflsecl1.html

Code 13. is your (Rpm signal no.2) This could be in relation to your code 31. But it is hard to determine. If you havent yet get your timing belt and components changed. Install new spark plugs, dist cap & rotor. Basically a full tune-up. This is as far as I can go without looking at the car. Hope this helps

 

Thanks for the tips! All the stuff you just mentioned has been done,and was done by a lexus tech on the side. However i was not impressed by his work. He did not change my crank seal because he said the gear would not come off and he was scared to heat it. But then he assured me it was not leaking only seaping. Im not the best tech in the world obviously,because i cant fix my problem.....yet! lol. However that really dissapointed me on his skill level. So now i have to wonder if the belt is on correctly or not. Furthermore this problem existed before all this tune up and belt proceedure. Is their a way to test the afm?

 

"He did not change my crank seal because he said the gear would not come off and he was scared to heat it. But then he assured me it was not leaking only seaping."

There should be absolutely NO leaks coming from that seal a seep is just as bad as a leak. I would get that replaced. Your maf sensor fluctuates from 0V-5V it moves up/down due to load,temp,elevation etc... I would replace the sensor just to be safe. Check your hoses for any cracked or looseness. Any lose in vacuum will cause issues as well.

 

TACH_MOTOR i ohmed out the cam sensors they are good. Tore down the timing covers and found cam#2 off 1 tooth . Called the tech that did the job,hes coming over in the morning to look at it. He says their is no way and im wrong but i know im not. Cross your fingers for me i will post back when he comes by to let you know how it works out

 

having it a tooth off will cause the idle too fluctuate and misfire. Keep me posted.

 

sounds like my problem there....time to do a timing belt job....yayyy, not.

 

Thought I'd give this a try.

My keyless entry doesn't work 100% of the time. Sometimes it'll work, sometimes it will not. I haven't checked any fuses or anything of the sort. Changed the battery on the key, and it still does the same thing. This started to happen around November. Changed the car's battery back in December after the alternator and battery died.



Any ideas?

 

Whats the year and model on the car? Sometimes the transponder in the key can wear down and have intermittent problems. Constantly locking/unlocking with the key can wear down the contacts in the circuit.

 

Tach motor - car is fixed and runs great! Thanks for all your help off to the paint shop