Questions for 90 LS
Hello everyone. I bought this car with 168K miles from a Lexus dealership about 2 weeks ago and I'm duly impressed. Car is in awesome condition inside/out and has been serviced religiously by Lexus.
I just have a few quick questions that hopefully you guys can address.
1) I've determined that there is no power going to my glovebox light. Does anyone know what other accessories are on the same circuit? I'm hoping that all I need to do is replace a fuse, but every other accessory I have is functioning properly (including all interior lights)...what are the odds that the glovebox light has its own fuse? Has anyone else encountered this problem? Can I avoid having to trace the wiring back to the source? Shortcuts, anyone?
2) I'll soon be changing the engine oil myself. I've done all oil changes in previous Hondas I've owned, but I've never considered the use of synthetic oil, so I'm pretty clueless in this regard...but less so after having read the various posts here.
Stupid question then: Will I be able to tell by looking at my old oil whether it's dino or synthetic? Does everyone agree that on a car this age, it's best to stick with what's in the engine?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Mike
I just have a few quick questions that hopefully you guys can address.
1) I've determined that there is no power going to my glovebox light. Does anyone know what other accessories are on the same circuit? I'm hoping that all I need to do is replace a fuse, but every other accessory I have is functioning properly (including all interior lights)...what are the odds that the glovebox light has its own fuse? Has anyone else encountered this problem? Can I avoid having to trace the wiring back to the source? Shortcuts, anyone?
2) I'll soon be changing the engine oil myself. I've done all oil changes in previous Hondas I've owned, but I've never considered the use of synthetic oil, so I'm pretty clueless in this regard...but less so after having read the various posts here.
Stupid question then: Will I be able to tell by looking at my old oil whether it's dino or synthetic? Does everyone agree that on a car this age, it's best to stick with what's in the engine?Thanks for your thoughts,
Mike
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About the glove box light. The headlight switch will need to be at the first (or) second click (1 - parking lamps, 2- headlight on) before the light in the glovebox will turn on. I'd imagine this was changed in 1993 or 1995 to be on whenver the door is open.
About synthetic.. from what I've heard if there are any leaks where oil can seep out, the synthetic oil will leak much faster.
I really hope you are positive everything is in excellent working condition. The cost of repairs for major things can total up past what the car is worth.
About synthetic.. from what I've heard if there are any leaks where oil can seep out, the synthetic oil will leak much faster.
I really hope you are positive everything is in excellent working condition. The cost of repairs for major things can total up past what the car is worth.
Originally posted by Lvangundy
About the glove box light. The headlight switch will need to be at the first (or) second click (1 - parking lamps, 2- headlight on) before the light in the glovebox will turn on. I'd imagine this was changed in 1993 or 1995 to be on whenver the door is open.
About synthetic.. from what I've heard if there are any leaks where oil can seep out, the synthetic oil will leak much faster.
I really hope you are positive everything is in excellent working condition. The cost of repairs for major things can total up past what the car is worth.
About the glove box light. The headlight switch will need to be at the first (or) second click (1 - parking lamps, 2- headlight on) before the light in the glovebox will turn on. I'd imagine this was changed in 1993 or 1995 to be on whenver the door is open.
About synthetic.. from what I've heard if there are any leaks where oil can seep out, the synthetic oil will leak much faster.
I really hope you are positive everything is in excellent working condition. The cost of repairs for major things can total up past what the car is worth.
Doh!! I should have thought about turning on the parking lights. I'll try that later-thanks. There aren't any puddle-on-the-asphalt oil leaks and from what I could see looking under the car before buying it, there didn't seem to be seepage or dirt and grime that would point to leaks...but until I get under the car I won't know for sure. The oil level light has lighted twice while cruising at about 80mph on the highway, so I topped it off and it hasn't been an issue since. Based on the Lexus service history I was given, the oil was last changed close to 10K miles ago last September, so I'm assuming that the engine does burn some oil. My Hondas have always burned at least 2qts between changes, so I'm in the habit of checking--no big deal. It would seem then that perhaps synthetic would be ill-advised...
I was/am definitely concerned about the costs of upkeep. Everything is working though and I pray that it's perfect maintenance history will save the day in it's golden years.
Originally posted by Lvangundy
About the glove box light. The headlight switch will need to be at the first (or) second click (1 - parking lamps, 2- headlight on) before the light in the glovebox will turn on. I'd imagine this was changed in 1993 or 1995 to be on whenver the door is open.
About the glove box light. The headlight switch will need to be at the first (or) second click (1 - parking lamps, 2- headlight on) before the light in the glovebox will turn on. I'd imagine this was changed in 1993 or 1995 to be on whenver the door is open.
You're absolutely right about the glovebox light--thanks!
Mike
dont use synthetic for our old LS400s.. yes our engines are one of the best built and built to last, but if you want to go straight to synthetic without checkign if not changing your seals on the engine.. you might have huge problems to come.. i'd stick to conventional just to be safe
Originally posted by persian451
dont use synthetic for our old LS400s.. yes our engines are one of the best built and built to last, but if you want to go straight to synthetic without checkign if not changing your seals on the engine.. you might have huge problems to come.. i'd stick to conventional just to be safe
dont use synthetic for our old LS400s.. yes our engines are one of the best built and built to last, but if you want to go straight to synthetic without checkign if not changing your seals on the engine.. you might have huge problems to come.. i'd stick to conventional just to be safe
Incidentally, I noticed in your sig that you have xenon lights. Cool!!
Mike
mtsao,
If your seals are OK, using synthetic oil will alleviate your oil burning problem. Synthetic has a much higher flash point and so burns less then dino. Synthetic will also " clean " your engine of sludge, if your seals or substandard ( small leak with dino ) then synthetic will clean any sludge that might be slowing down the leak and so you end up with a bigger leak.
Considering the age and mileage of your car and that you just recently bought it, you will have to decide of the extra cost of synthetic or even "high mileage" oil is worth it.
I use synthetic in all my cars, have an 89 Legend with ~200k miles no problems with seal leaks, burns 1/2 quart every 3,000 miles. Using dino, it will burn 1 qt every 1,000 miles.
If your seals are OK, using synthetic oil will alleviate your oil burning problem. Synthetic has a much higher flash point and so burns less then dino. Synthetic will also " clean " your engine of sludge, if your seals or substandard ( small leak with dino ) then synthetic will clean any sludge that might be slowing down the leak and so you end up with a bigger leak.
Considering the age and mileage of your car and that you just recently bought it, you will have to decide of the extra cost of synthetic or even "high mileage" oil is worth it.
I use synthetic in all my cars, have an 89 Legend with ~200k miles no problems with seal leaks, burns 1/2 quart every 3,000 miles. Using dino, it will burn 1 qt every 1,000 miles.
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Originally posted by mtsao
I noticed in your sig that you have xenon lights. Cool!!
What exactly do you have? Or I guess I should ask what is your setup? HID conversion kit only, or whole nine including non-oe optics? I'd very much like to install HID but there's scant information available for our vehicles and I'd really like to know how you did yours...
I noticed in your sig that you have xenon lights. Cool!!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=48111
Originally posted by LS400Dom
Check out this thread, you will get some info about it:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=48111
Check out this thread, you will get some info about it:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=48111
Also, thanks for the info Nick--as of yet, I've not determined the condition of my seals. I'll probably not chance it. When you mentioned that I should ponder whether it makes sense to use even the higher mileage formulation, are you looking at it from the standpoint of added cost only, or are you suggesting that it might also act as synthetic in the sense of loosening sludge and causing problems?
Mike
Last edited by mtsao; Sep 11, 2003 at 08:07 AM.
mtsao,
I do not have experience with the High Mileage oils to know if they loosen and clean sludge buildup. I doubt they would. My comment was for the increased cost of the oil. If you are burning oil or have slight lost in compression, there is no difference between going to a higher weight regular oil then using the "spec" weight high mileage oil. HIgh mileage oil has more additives designed to "shear" less... you can get similar results going to a heavier weight oil.
Example spec is 5w30 try using 10w40 or 15w50. Use the lightest weight oil that does not burn, or burn the least.
Regards
I do not have experience with the High Mileage oils to know if they loosen and clean sludge buildup. I doubt they would. My comment was for the increased cost of the oil. If you are burning oil or have slight lost in compression, there is no difference between going to a higher weight regular oil then using the "spec" weight high mileage oil. HIgh mileage oil has more additives designed to "shear" less... you can get similar results going to a heavier weight oil.
Example spec is 5w30 try using 10w40 or 15w50. Use the lightest weight oil that does not burn, or burn the least.
Regards
Originally posted by mtsao
Umm, LS400, I checked the thread but I couldn't find any mention of HID for 1st Gen LS400...do you know of anyone who has performed this conversion? Do xenon bulbs even come in 9004 size??
Mike
Umm, LS400, I checked the thread but I couldn't find any mention of HID for 1st Gen LS400...do you know of anyone who has performed this conversion? Do xenon bulbs even come in 9004 size??
Mike
Check the website and you will see and understand the differences between "HID kit" and the real HID retrofit.
Email them to ask some questions about the HID retrofit.
Good Luck 'bro
Nick, thanks for the suggestions. I've only had the car about 3 weeks, so I'm not certain yet of its oil consumption tendencies. Given that winter is around the corner here in Illinois
I don't think I will be increasing the weight of the oil.
Dominic, thanks for the url. It looks like they do good work. Now, just have to come into some money...
Mike
I don't think I will be increasing the weight of the oil. Dominic, thanks for the url. It looks like they do good work. Now, just have to come into some money...

Mike
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