Mobil 1 or Toyota 0W-20 Oil
08-04-12, 11:25 AM
#1
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Mobil 1 or Toyota 0W-20 Oil
Hi guys,
My car is almost 20K mileage and I'm preparing a DIY oil change. I'm thinking of using Mobil 1 0W-20 from now because it's cheaper at Walmart versus the price and cost of shipping of Toyota OEM oil from Sewell Lexus.
1) My question is about switching from Toyota to Mobil 1 oil. After I drain the original Toyota oil out, can I start using the Mobil 1 oil immediately?
2) I have read from some thread that people tighten their oil filter by hand only. Is that method recommended or I just stick with the regular ratcheting + AST Oil Socket Wrench.
Thank you!
My car is almost 20K mileage and I'm preparing a DIY oil change. I'm thinking of using Mobil 1 0W-20 from now because it's cheaper at Walmart versus the price and cost of shipping of Toyota OEM oil from Sewell Lexus.
1) My question is about switching from Toyota to Mobil 1 oil. After I drain the original Toyota oil out, can I start using the Mobil 1 oil immediately?
2) I have read from some thread that people tighten their oil filter by hand only. Is that method recommended or I just stick with the regular ratcheting + AST Oil Socket Wrench.
Thank you!
08-05-12, 08:08 PM
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Thanks guys! My car is a 2011 IS250, which I believe to have the cartridge filter. Hopefully I will not over tight it using the wrench.
As for oil change maintenance, my car is to be done at 19,600 since the last 10k oil change. Is it possible to avoid damage to the engine if I change my oil at 20,000 mileage? That will be 400 more miles over the 10K recommendation.
As for oil change maintenance, my car is to be done at 19,600 since the last 10k oil change. Is it possible to avoid damage to the engine if I change my oil at 20,000 mileage? That will be 400 more miles over the 10K recommendation.
09-05-12, 01:42 PM
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Anyone used Green G-Oil in replace of Toyota? Talking about 0w-20 on a RX-450H here.
http://www.getg.com/engineOil/full_synthetic.php
http://www.getg.com/engineOil/full_synthetic.php
12-12-15, 12:24 PM
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Thanks guys! My car is a 2011 IS250, which I believe to have the cartridge filter. Hopefully I will not over tight it using the wrench.
As for oil change maintenance, my car is to be done at 19,600 since the last 10k oil change. Is it possible to avoid damage to the engine if I change my oil at 20,000 mileage? That will be 400 more miles over the 10K recommendation.
As for oil change maintenance, my car is to be done at 19,600 since the last 10k oil change. Is it possible to avoid damage to the engine if I change my oil at 20,000 mileage? That will be 400 more miles over the 10K recommendation.
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12-12-15, 06:00 PM
#8
Amsoil 0w-20 is the correct oil to use!
12-12-15, 09:38 PM
#9
Intermediate
I had the same concern about using Mobil 1 or Toyota 0w-20 oil for my last oil change I did on my 2011 RX350.
I decided to use Mobil 1 and the factory oil filter element.
I used a socket to tighten my oil filter canister to make sure it was snug, however I have the metal filter canister on my car.
If you have the plastic housing I would just go hand-tight to prevent cracking the plastic with too much torque when using a socket.
I will only do 4k oil changes because I like fresh oil in my engine and to prevent sludge build-up that happens when the oil is old and begins to break-down.
Yes, I know synthetic oil can go longer than 4k miles, but i still want to change it while it is fresh and still does a good job of lubricating/cleaning my engine.
I decided to use Mobil 1 and the factory oil filter element.
I used a socket to tighten my oil filter canister to make sure it was snug, however I have the metal filter canister on my car.
If you have the plastic housing I would just go hand-tight to prevent cracking the plastic with too much torque when using a socket.
I will only do 4k oil changes because I like fresh oil in my engine and to prevent sludge build-up that happens when the oil is old and begins to break-down.
Yes, I know synthetic oil can go longer than 4k miles, but i still want to change it while it is fresh and still does a good job of lubricating/cleaning my engine.
12-14-15, 06:53 AM
#10
Lexus Test Driver
AWBB...
A stands for the viscosity at cold start. The lower the number, the faster the oil will reach the engine components on cold start.
BB stands for the viscosity at operating temperature.
Stick with what the owner's manual specifies unless you have objective testings showing positive results.
A stands for the viscosity at cold start. The lower the number, the faster the oil will reach the engine components on cold start.
BB stands for the viscosity at operating temperature.
Stick with what the owner's manual specifies unless you have objective testings showing positive results.
12-14-15, 07:29 PM
#11
Lexus Test Driver
thats a ok rule, but the technical reasons are lacking. they have been specifying oils like 0w20 to get miles/emissions #'s. in hot areas (desert, so cal, so az, tx, etc) i am willing to bet that the engine will last longer running sae30 vs any manual specified -w-- oil. this is hard test to do, needs lots and lots of miles with two identical vehicles.
Unless you are working for an automotive manufacturer, you are not going to have enough money to test out engine oil. Best to stick with manufacturer's specifications.
FYI, I had a 97 ES300 with +280k miles with original engine, transmission, PS pump, alternator, starter, etc...I stick with manufacturer's specifications when it came to fluids.
06-27-16, 06:49 PM
#15
However, keep in mind that when you go to a dealership, unless you specifically request Toyota bottled oil, you will be getting something that "meets the specifications" AKA the cheapest oil that they can find.