flossie13

so it would be the solenoid even though the starter turns?? it does not click just turns continuously... Is the starter over the tranny on the right?? one guy said it was and another said down by the ac unit... i am a little confused... Thanks for all assistance...

flossie13

ok got the sarter out. On the '03 es 300 it is above the tranny (fwd) on the right side in engine compartment. looks like the gear on the starter is not extending out and engaging the engine to turn it over. What would cause that please if anyone knows. BTW it takes around 15 minutes to get to the starter and pull it. Kudos to Toyota on this one!!!

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

If you pull it apart, you will find the contacts for the starter solenoid - the part that sticks the gear out... typically on Toyota starters, you will find the contacts on this with some dark black spots, causing it to not make good contact... Typically you can clean these with a wire brush, electrical contact cleaner, etc, or, they also sell a rebuild kit with these parts...

PHASHAC

hi I m happy you are a former technician for Lexus.1999 is 200 automatic The beast does'nt wanna start with the timing on the mark.coil and injector sparks seems to be working.The diagnosis machine says no fault on the car,It turns well with no suspect sound the immobiliser light does goes off when starting.When we turn it for sometime it sounds like it will start there is a sound like its backfiring through the throttle boby but this happens sometimes most of the time it just turns without starting.Please advice where to check also

flossie13

I noticed that the plastic guide for the 3 gears has very worn out grooves.. is that normal??

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

yup... pics to be sure?

Ryan2691

Hi i was wondering if you could help me with this problem that has just started occuring on my 92 sc400 when i start it, it idles for a couple of seconds then shuts right off and it smells like gasoline coming out of my exhaust and i just tried to start it up now and it wont turn over. Im thinking its my ecu but not sure im trying to get as much help as possible.


Any Help is greatly apprecitated!

My98ES300

Hello, I'm new to the boards and in need of help. I have a 1998 Lexus ES300. It has over 220,000 miles on it. Runs well except for one problem that I've had for a while. When I would take the car on the highway and get over 65 to 75mph and begin to decelerate, I would notice that the car would jerk. This has been going on for while, so I took it to the Lexus dealer, and they said their were no problems. I do my regular scheduled maintenance like clock work. I got a check engine light recently and the code was my EGR was stuck open. I was told that it could be cleaned out and then replace my catalytic converter because it was probably bad. The new catalytic is quite noisy and I still have the jerking when I accelerate and bring it down quickly. I've noticed that the RPM is jumping when this happens. I'm now being told that I need to change the EGR valve on the car. Am I heading in the right direction?

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

check timing belt for proper alignment, check ignition coils for spark

may also have a cam/crank sensor issue...

unfortunately thats not an easy one to diagnose...

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

it is possible to check if the EGR is working properly... I don't recall on that particular car, but, it should have a vacuum operated EGR valve... if so, a small vacuum pump can be attached to the valve, start the car, let it idle, then use the vacuum pump to open the egr valve... if the idle changes and the car stumbles and almost dies, or does die, then it is most likely working properly...

catalytic converters have no moving parts, what type of noise does it make? does it sound like an exhaust leak? chances are, if so, that it was not welded in properly... not sure what other noise one would make?

bucking under deceleration... thats always a tough one to diagnose... with that mileage, it could be carbon deposits in the engine that should be cleaned out (google seafoam treatment), could be spark plugs / wires, though typically not on full deceleration... I would look for vacuum leaks around the engine, as this can also be a factor... last two things could be a throttle plate not completely closing and/or a idle motor not working perfectly...

MC5Wes

I have a 2007 RX350 FWD with 41K. It just started idling rough. Doesnt throw any lights.

I cleaned the Mas Air Flow sensor. And went ahead and swapped out the engine filter. But it still idles rough.

My old 2001 RX300 had a IACV. And I cleaned every once and awhile. Does the 2007 RX have one? Or a electronic throttle by wire throttle body ?

Thanks

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

Well, since you have done the easy, relatively cheap stuff with no results, I might suggest the dealer as that car should be under warranty still...

If you want to do some more yourself though, first thing I would ask would be what do you mean by rough idle... by rough do you mean you feel vibration in the car at idle, or do you mean that the idle surges up and down... if its a vibration, but no engine light, it might be a motor mount... if it surges, most likely carbon on the throttle plate...

MC5Wes

The first trouble I had is it didn't start on the first attempt. But started ok on the second.

On the idle. It surges. Sitting at a red light. You can see the Tach drop 800 to 600. And the Air Conditioning fan output will drop off. Then come back. Or some times it just stays at 600. And the car hesitates when you take off.

On driving down the street. You can tell it doesn't have the power. Before if you stepped on it hard it would just go. Now when you step on it. It revs up high. But at the first transmission gear change. Settles down.

On cleaning the carbon on the throttle plate. Is that the same as cleaning the IACV on the older RXs? How do you get access?

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Have you checked to see if you got a vacuum leak? Such as vacuum lines, PCV, and oil dipstick is it all the way in?

MC5Wes

Today I took the black cover off the left side. And checked all the lines on the engine. To see if anything was loose. Everything looked good.

So with the last of my CRC MAF cleaner. I pulled off one of the tubes going to the intake. And sprayed the inside of engine intake down. After I go it started you could tell the difference. Idle was higher. And didn't surge sitting at the red light.

This afternoon I picked up a can of Sea Foam. And with my kid pushing on the accelerator. I sprayed the engine again. We took it out to the highway. And you could tell the difference right away. It starts on the first attempt. Doesn't surge any more. And my power was back.

Thanks again for all the help. Looks like im going to be adding cleaning my intake to my regular maintenance schedule.

Thanks for all the help. Saved me a trip to the dealer.