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Technical Help (by Mitsuguy and ArmyofOne)

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Old 07-22-16, 01:14 AM
  #316  
Johnknee
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Is it hard to remove a driver's side fender on a 2012 RX 350?
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Old 08-25-16, 07:51 AM
  #317  
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I would guess it is. Most cars these days require bumper, headlight, grille and fender liner removal before the fender can be changed...IF its a front. "If its a rear panel, its a cut out old and weld in new" process.
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Old 09-13-16, 12:02 PM
  #318  
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Default replacing the upper oil pan on my 06 gs300....

do I need to drop the sub frame to do this job
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Old 09-14-16, 06:34 PM
  #319  
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yes, you will need to drop the subframe to replace the upper oil pan on any GS300

it is probably almost as easy to pull the motor
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Old 04-02-17, 04:57 PM
  #320  
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Default 2006 Lexus RX330: Experiencing Peculiar Overheating

Hi!

I have a peculiar cooling system on my 2006 RX330.

Here are the vehicle specifics:
- 2006
- RX330
- 156k Miles
- Canada Built
- No tow package, but has transmission cooler built into radiator
- All maintenance up to date (including timing belt and water pump @116k miles through Lexus dealership)
- No CEL
- No Coolant leakage/seepage/residue after radiator replacement

Context
Last week my wife was driving approx 80 miles, then all of a sudden the A/C turned warm. My wife pulling into a parking lot, turned the engine off, then 'boom', steam poured out and coolant everywhere! After she had the vehicle towed home, I inspected the vehicle and noticed there was an 8" crack/opening in the plastic portion of the radiator on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Fast forward this weekend, I replaced the the radiator with an Lexus/Toyota OEM unit along with upper and lower radiator hoses. Filled it up with nearly 2 gallons of 'pink' Lexus/Toyota coolant; spent 20 minutes burping the system, and all appeared good. Went to take it for a drive and noticed the temp gauge climbing to the 4th tick mark and proceeded to turn the a/c off, temperature balanced out, then temperature began to rise while stopped/idling.

In addition, both cooling and a/c fan are operational and come on simultaneously/independently; system overflow tank in between low and full; spent 10 minutes burping the system with no change in coolant level.

My thoughts
- Possible thermostat malfunction? Coolant is passing through both top and bottom hoses, with each being warm/hot to the touch...
- Radiator Fan Module Going Bad? The fans are engaging/disengaging when a/c compressor kicks on...
- Coolant Temperature Sensor? The coolant dash gauge displays the fluctuating temp...

I'm at a total loss...so thought experts with experience can provide additional insight!

Looking forward to any and all thoughts!
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Old 04-02-17, 06:24 PM
  #321  
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Originally Posted by Twinkie2000 View Post
Hi!

I have a peculiar cooling system on my 2006 RX330.

Here are the vehicle specifics:
- 2006
- RX330
- 156k Miles
- Canada Built
- No tow package, but has transmission cooler built into radiator
- All maintenance up to date (including timing belt and water pump @116k miles through Lexus dealership)
- No CEL
- No Coolant leakage/seepage/residue after radiator replacement

Context
Last week my wife was driving approx 80 miles, then all of a sudden the A/C turned warm. My wife pulling into a parking lot, turned the engine off, then 'boom', steam poured out and coolant everywhere! After she had the vehicle towed home, I inspected the vehicle and noticed there was an 8" crack/opening in the plastic portion of the radiator on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Fast forward this weekend, I replaced the the radiator with an Lexus/Toyota OEM unit along with upper and lower radiator hoses. Filled it up with nearly 2 gallons of 'pink' Lexus/Toyota coolant; spent 20 minutes burping the system, and all appeared good. Went to take it for a drive and noticed the temp gauge climbing to the 4th tick mark and proceeded to turn the a/c off, temperature balanced out, then temperature began to rise while stopped/idling.

In addition, both cooling and a/c fan are operational and come on simultaneously/independently; system overflow tank in between low and full; spent 10 minutes burping the system with no change in coolant level.

My thoughts
- Possible thermostat malfunction? Coolant is passing through both top and bottom hoses, with each being warm/hot to the touch...
- Radiator Fan Module Going Bad? The fans are engaging/disengaging when a/c compressor kicks on...
- Coolant Temperature Sensor? The coolant dash gauge displays the fluctuating temp...

I'm at a total loss...so thought experts with experience can provide additional insight!

Looking forward to any and all thoughts!
I think the first couple places I would look - I would make doubly sure the system was bled completely - maybe even go as far as to get the vehicle on an angle with the front higher than the rear while bleeding.

Pressure test to make sure there are no additional leaks.

Block test to ensure no head gasket issue.

Check for flow - use an infrared temp gun to see if coolant is actually flowing. An overheat can cause issues with the thermostat. A bad water pump can cause lack of flow also, even though it may not leak.
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Old 06-16-17, 10:35 PM
  #322  
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I have a 2008 Lexus GS 350 with about 90k miles. My water pump was leaking and making a terrible noise - got quotes from dealer and a few other shops for $800 and after seeing posts here decided to replace it myself. All went well and I replaced it just fine - however I accidentally ran the car with no engine coolant in it for maybe a minute, a minute and a half max after putting everything back. I did fill the radiator with coolant after my mistake but it will no longer start.

It sometimes will turn over and give me a Check VSC notification. Also, the electronics will slowly start to die after trying to start and the locks will struggle to lock/unlock. REALLLLLLLLY hoping I didn't blow a head gasket and turn this into an even more expensive repair. Anyone have any idea what might be happening? I don't think any fuses were blown and the battery should be fine - I will check it tomorrow. Think it could possibly be an alternator or starter? The strange electricity issue after trying to start has me puzzled.
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Old 06-17-17, 06:27 AM
  #323  
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Definitely check the electrical system. Blown head gasket would lead to overheating and the engine not running smooth, not electrical issues.

Yours sounds like alternator, battery, fuse(s) or wiring. Maybe you shirted the post on the alternator to ground which will blow the main fuse...
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Old 06-17-17, 07:48 AM
  #324  
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Pulled out the fuses I could to check and none were blown. Check batter with volt meter and it was at 11.9 - going to charge it with my girlfriends car and hoping it works.
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Old 06-17-17, 07:57 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by soggyjay View Post
Pulled out the fuses I could to check and none were blown. Check batter with volt meter and it was at 11.9 - going to charge it with my girlfriends car and hoping it works.
The large main fuse can't be removed easily.

11.9v is an alternator not charging, most likely
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Old 06-17-17, 10:45 AM
  #326  
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Originally Posted by mitsuguy View Post
The large main fuse can't be removed easily.

11.9v is an alternator not charging, most likely

Jumped the battery and it started. Been able to stop and start the car several times without charging again. Battery voltage now reading around 12.6 after being off for ~10 minutes. If the alternator is broken, will it slowly drop back down to 11.9?
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Old 06-21-17, 10:59 AM
  #327  
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Question LX 470 gas smell.

Our LX is pretty smelly once we fill it with gas. The smell is coming from the fuel tank area. Been under the truck and pulled rear seat and inspected everything. Still cannot pinpoint the issue. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-23-18, 01:24 PM
  #328  
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Default Coolant temp sensor

I am trying to locate the coolant temp sensor on a 2012 is250?
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Old 06-28-18, 01:03 AM
  #329  
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Quick question on a purchase of a 05 GX470

Hi all

I've had a PPI done on a 05 gx with 140k miles. I need to bullet-proof the car before I hand it over to mom
The PPI returned the following: slow leak in the power steering below the rack, some rust scale on the frame, 'slight seepage from front struts' (shock absorbers?), 'no evidence that the timing belt has been done (the Lexus Driver vehicle history system refutes this), all original suspension
The good: new brake pads, body looks good, regular service history at the dealer

Given this, should I still consider the car for purchase? What is reasonable/fair to negotiate with the dealer (non Lex/Toy) on repairs here? How much does the power steering and 'struts' cost to fix?

Thanks!
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