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Car won't stay on after it starts, HELP!

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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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Default Car won't stay on after it starts, HELP!

For some reason, my car has a hard time staying on after I start it in the morning. It will start and then the RPM's just drop like a rock and the car dies.
If I press the gas pedal, it will stay on. I usually have to press on the gas and let it idle at 1,500 RPM's for a few minutes and then it will stay on.
This problem does not happen for the rest of the day. Only in the mornings.
I thought it was bad gas so I have been using premium but it still has the same problem.

Does anyone know what the problem is?

EDIT: Forgot to add that the car is a 98 ES300 with 215K miles.

Last edited by OceanView; Jul 9, 2007 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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It could be Idle air control valve, but if you post year and model of your vehicle it will help a lot.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by VVT-i
It could be Idle air control valve, but if you post year and model of your vehicle it will help a lot.
His profile says he has a 1998 ES300.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Since its an ES300, i would absolutely agree with Nuum, i would check out your idle air control valve.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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Forgot to add that the car is a 98 ES300 with 215K miles.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RTGS400
Since its an ES300, i would absolutely agree with Nuum, i would check out your idle air control valve.

Can you tell me where this valve is located?
I am not familiar with it.

Thanks
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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VVT-I hit it on the head. This would obviously use a 1MZFE like my RX300 and that is the most likely scenario. You need to remove the baffles off the air box and clean out this area here with some carb cleaner. Your ES will have a single throttle body unlike my twin one here on my RX, but you should be able to locate the little notch/hole you see in the tube here, a simple spray for about 10 seconds or so should help clear it up.

Keep in mind, gas pedal really isn't a gas pedal, it actually is an air pedal and regulates the amont of air entering the engine, thus holding it down in your case gives it a sufficient enough amount of air until the engine is satisfied (the few minutes you need). I actually have a delay myself of a few seconds, but this related to high altitude when I start up my RX.

The actual IACV valve is the black piece with the small circle on the top of it and the 2 screws.
Attached Thumbnails Car won't stay on after it starts, HELP!-iacv.jpg  
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:02 PM
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A little further back for perspective.
Attached Thumbnails Car won't stay on after it starts, HELP!-iacvouter.jpg  
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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OK, I am trying to determine exactly where I am suppose to spray the carb cleaner.

Please look at the photo.
Do I spray in part A or is there something behind part B that I spray into?

Thanks for your help.
Attached Thumbnails Car won't stay on after it starts, HELP!-iacv-copy.jpg  
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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You would spray in the A port...
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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OK, I think you mean here right?
Attached Thumbnails Car won't stay on after it starts, HELP!-iacv-copy-2.jpg  
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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Part A (the little notch/hole)

Some people remove Part B and go through a hassle.

Part A shoud be sufficient unless there is something mechanically wrong with the IACV valve itself.

The reason that the IACV valve can get dirty is because of the way the engine works. There is something called crankshaft vent hose (on the other side is something called the PCV valve, positive crankshaft valve). Both of these shoot back moisture, oil, gunk, etc. into the engine to be burned as part of the emissions system.

Unfortunately, in the process this stuff can get into the IACV valve over time and cause it to get blocked.

If the the spray doesn't work (try it at least 3 times, each time hooking everything back up), then let me know as there are a few other possibilities to take a look at.
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexmex
Part A (the little notch/hole)

Some people remove Part B and go through a hassle.

Part A shoud be sufficient unless there is something mechanically wrong with the IACV valve itself.

The reason that the IACV valve can get dirty is because of the way the engine works. There is something called crankshaft vent hose (on the other side is something called the PCV valve, positive crankshaft valve). Both of these shoot back moisture, oil, gunk, etc. into the engine to be burned as part of the emissions system.

Unfortunately, in the process this stuff can get into the IACV valve over time and cause it to get blocked.

If the the spray doesn't work (try it at least 3 times, each time hooking everything back up), then let me know as there are a few other possibilities to take a look at.
Thanks for all the info. I do appreciate it.
Going to Auto store now to buy some carb cleaner.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 01:25 PM
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Default don't take out the IACV

I am stuck in the process of doing the whole removeal right now. I managed to strip out one of the 3 bolts that holds the throttle body on. Of course it is the back one and I'm trapped without an EZ Out.

I tried to drill it off but just managed to chew up my drill bits.

So I'm stuck here waiting on a friend to buy me an ez out. Do not do bother taking it off just clean it via the hole.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by toy4two
I am stuck in the process of doing the whole removeal right now. I managed to strip out one of the 3 bolts that holds the throttle body on. Of course it is the back one and I'm trapped without an EZ Out.

I tried to drill it off but just managed to chew up my drill bits.

So I'm stuck here waiting on a friend to buy me an ez out. Do not do bother taking it off just clean it via the hole.
Actually he doesn't as I mentioned above, but you bring up a good point as it is a pain with those deceptive looking bolts, even on my RX300.
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